heatmiser

I'm thinking about climbing the south side route Saturday or Sunday, but I don't know what conditions to expect due to the bizarre lack of snow this winter. I hope someone who has been up recently can answer a few questions. I climbed Hood via this route last April, and the bergschrund was nothing but a crack. I know that normally the bergschrund is nonexistent in winter, but I'm wondering what sort of obstacle or hazard, if any, it currently presents. Also, I'm assuming the avalanche hazard will be low in coming days due to snow consolidation this week caused by sunny days. Is this a safe assumption? And what about that mystery crevasse that swallowed a climber along this route last May? Probably a stupid question, but is it even an issue at this point? Suggestions for start time ?(my partner and I are in good shape) Lastly, snowshoes or no snowshoes? Thanks for your help.

I was up on Middle Sister Wednesday, and found out what it's like to climb on "inadequate" cover. I camped near the Chambers Lakes and went up the south ridge route. It was a mix of soft snow, ranging in depth from 5 inches to two feet, and the usual extremely loose rock underneath. Around 9,400 feet or so, I became very uncomfortable with this relatively shallow layer of wet snow over the very loose stuff due to the rocky runout below and the fact that crampons and axe would have been useless. I just didn't want to attempt to downclimb that crap, so I turned back. There was not enough snow to kick good steps or plunge-step. I also was traveling solo. Anyway, the trip still was worthwhile, as it was sunny and I have never seen the sisters looking so good. I was surprised by the volume of snow up there so early in fall.

Thanks for the advice, guys. Now if only the weather would cooperate for a couple of days....

Is the route being discussed here Route 1 or Route 2 from the climbers guide? I'm thinking about making my second attempt on Pershing in the next couple of weeks. It sounds like the Jefferson Creek road approach is the main route. The information here is helpful, but any other advice would be welcome. Also, how tough is the rock at the top? It sounds like moderate Class 3 with a little exposure. How does it compare to say, Mt. Stone, The Brothers, Mt. Lincoln (Route 1)? I tried Pershing Route 4, approaching via Mildred Lakes Trail, a couple of weeks ago and got off-route after some nasty bushwacking through lots of those unpleasant "gullies full of devilsclub, and hot exposed slopes filled with slide alder" that AJScott described. My partner and I turned back after getting uncomfortable with a long stretch of steep, exposed, loose rock on our ill-chosen route. We also wanted to avoid bushwacking in the dark. The Route 4 description in the guide made the route sound more straightforward, with no mention of the brutal brush — although I did expect some jungle travel. Instead the guide says "Leave the trail and climb SE over scree..." I knew I wouldn't be hitting scree at 3,000 feet, but geez, it took over an hour of steep brush-beating to get out of the trees. Thanks

I'm planning a climb of Middle Sister via the Renfrew Glacier route for Tuesday. Just wondering if anyone could give me info on the current conditions. Thanks!

I'm interested in climbing Warrior Peak, but have not been able to gather much information on the climb other than what's in the Climber's Guide to the Olympic Mountains. So I'd be interested in any input anyone could offer me on climbing the southeast summit, 7,300. The guide recommends Warrior, saying Route 2 is "an excellent climb." I'm wondering whether this is a true Class 3 route, or whether it's actually more like a Class 4 requiring rope and belay. Does anyone know how exposed it is? I have climbed two routes rated Class 3 using descriptions in the guide — Mt. Stone and The Brothers. Can anyone tell me how Warrior Route 2 stacks up to these climbs in terms of route-finding, difficulty and especially exposure? The only trip report I found online described a mountaineering class forced to climb beyond their abilities after their guides were surprised to find Class 5 rock near the summit. I'm guessing they went via the guide's Route 1, which is rated Class 3 even though the description sounds like Class 4. Thanks!

I climbed Ruth solo on Monday. The snow was soft and wet, and crampons were of little use. I took what seemed like the usual route straight up from Ruth Arm and encountered two crevasses — one very small and one big enough for a climber. I crossed between them, with the larger crevasse above me. I admit I was surprised to see the larger crevasse this early in the season, as I had heard that crevasses were not an issue on Ruth until very late in the season. As others have stated, the route is very clear. Just take a right at Hannegan Pass, head through a camping area on trail and climb a very rough and steep climbers route to a rocky bench. Then head left on a path around the rock to a meadowy ridge. Climb some nearly flat rock and head up the snow. A hiker who signed the trail register right before me encountered a black bear heading up the trail about a mile in. Take time to climb Hannegan Peak from the pass as well. It's a steep 30-minute hike, and the views are just as spectacular as those from Ruth's summit. Have a good trip.