bnag Posted July 20, 2004 Posted July 20, 2004 my days are wrapped up in class and the afternoon sun is a little hot on the columns. i was wondering if anyone can share some places close to eugene (aside from flagstone) to sit out side and do some climbing. in the past i have gone so far to bolder on the rock bathroom at hendrik's park. ideas, i am not afraid....thanks Quote
bunglehead Posted July 20, 2004 Posted July 20, 2004 If you find any let me know. I've resorted to tree climbing Not the same. But FUN! Quote
jkrueger Posted July 20, 2004 Posted July 20, 2004 Bouldering in Eugene? Â But, if you're desperate enough to climb the bathroom walls . . . There are a couple of rock sculpture things in Amazon park to play around on. Though not quite bouldering, there are some slabs off the top of Spencer's Butte. I heard rumor there are some boulders in the middle of a field somewhere outside the town of Coburg (not to be confused with Coburg Caves) -- happy hunting! Â If it's true bouldering you want, you'll probably have to do some driving. Quote
Tyler Posted July 20, 2004 Posted July 20, 2004 Definitely not serious climbing... But... Â I heard about an artificial bouldering wall for kids in a city park in Veneta. Yeah, Veneta... Definitely not serious bouldering (for sure). I took some friends' kids, and they loved it. I haven't seen anything like it in any city park I've been too. Quote
bnag Posted July 20, 2004 Author Posted July 20, 2004 can i get beta on roseburg areas? published/ non-published... Quote
jkrueger Posted July 20, 2004 Posted July 20, 2004 There are some boulders right at the trailhead going up to the Callahans. Quote
Fejas Posted July 21, 2004 Posted July 21, 2004 Buildering can be fun, but not out of the heat of town and not in the day.... night time adventure, try the hotel with the large stone wall on pearl st., The three story cinderblock wall in an apt. complex @ 15th and mill st., the alley half block east of 10th in city center has good gutter pipes to climb... Bridgering? the old train bridge on coburg road is good fun... Â bouldering is to be had out in coburg but all is on private property... Â Quote
sk Posted July 21, 2004 Posted July 21, 2004 my days are wrapped up in class and the afternoon sun is a little hot on the columns. i was wondering if anyone can share some places close to eugene (aside from flagstone) to sit out side and do some climbing. in the past i have gone so far to bolder on the rock bathroom at hendrik's park. ideas, i am not afraid....thanks buildering is FUN and there are tons of old brick buildings on campus  as far as the collums being too hot... they RAWK at arround 6 am I wish I still had time for sun rise climbing. Quote
MegaMan Posted July 22, 2004 Posted July 22, 2004 What is this Coburg Caves? I've lived in NW Eugene near coburg for most of my 22 years. I have heard old timers talk about the Coburb Cracks but never knew where/what there are. I've been all over the Shotgun Creek area west of Coburg and never seen anything. This could be the beginnings of an adventure. Quote
MegaMan Posted July 22, 2004 Posted July 22, 2004 Nevermind, I answered my own question with the power of "Search." Quote
ryland_moore Posted July 22, 2004 Posted July 22, 2004 MegaMan, Coburg Caves are up the McKenzie as the Coburg Hills wrap around. Do not tresspass as they will prosecute. Find someone who has permission to be up there and go as a guest. Don't be an idiot and try and sneak in. You will be caught as the people with permission climb out there pretty much daily. If you want some awesome bouldering talk to the people at the Crux about the Sweet Home boulders. Plenty of opportunity for first ascents too. Quote
Fejas Posted July 23, 2004 Posted July 23, 2004 yes they will charge you with trespasing.... the owner how ever does not live on the same property, but he is a lawyer.... There is other areas to to go to though. Â Hey J and bungle, I have an area up there I'd like some oppinions on... A little later in august if you guys are interested I'd like to take you up there and check out weather its even worth messing with.... its kinda a weekend only deal do to reasent construction up there... Quote
shapp Posted July 23, 2004 Posted July 23, 2004 As far as I am concerned the owner is laim. I talked with those folks back in the early 1990s. They suck, if they were real climbers they would talk to the access fund and find away to be bought out, and turn it into a climbing park. With the shortage of west side rock their attitude is pure selfishness. BTH Megaman, dude have you never looked up at baldy and seen he crags down low? How long have you lived in the area? To a climber, these cliffs are obvious from all over Springfield. Quote
bunglehead Posted July 23, 2004 Posted July 23, 2004 yes they will charge you with trespasing.... the owner how ever does not live on the same property, but he is a lawyer.... There is other areas to to go to though. Â Hey J and bungle, I have an area up there I'd like some oppinions on... A little later in august if you guys are interested I'd like to take you up there and check out weather its even worth messing with.... its kinda a weekend only deal do to reasent construction up there... Â Yeah, okay. I'm in. Quote
ryland_moore Posted July 23, 2004 Posted July 23, 2004 Shapp, your attitude is the reason why more areas are not open. Assuming that everyone's private property is your personal firehydrant is the wrong attitude. The rock really isn't that great, does offer climbing close to town, and I had no problem only going when invited by one of the regular climbers. Â I bet you'd feel a little differently if you had your own piece of property where you were having things stolen, equipment messed with, and defamation of cliff and trees, and dealing with tresspassers. Insurance is a serious issue as well. If you know the background of the owners, then you would understand, in this litigious society, what a lawsuit could do to the family if someone fell or was injured. Much bigger issue then saying they should just go ahead and let anyone climb there. Â Until you actually know what it costs to maintain and police even a small park, which I do, I think you'd better focus on other more important issues. Â Finally, the owners are not climbers, just his friends and their friends are and he is kind enough to allow some people up there. Â Instead of turning it into a park, they are in the process of turning it into a preserve, as there is an endangered species of butterfly called the Fender's blue on Mount Baldy. He is doing something generous with the property, it just may not be for climbing. Â Plus, The Access Fund has very little money and spends its resources on only the most threatened areas in the country. But, I guess you would already know that if you were a member. Â Quote
jkrueger Posted July 23, 2004 Posted July 23, 2004 Fejas: I'd be game for checking out a local area with some potential. I killed my wire brush, though -- give me some time to get a replacement! Â Ry: None of the guys with the Sweet Home beta climb at The Crux anymore -- they all moved to the warehouse. What did you do, move to Portland? Quote
jkrueger Posted July 23, 2004 Posted July 23, 2004 It's been a spell . . . hard to go inside when it's so nice outside! But they do have air conditioning now, which is sounding really nice in the midst of this heat wave. Quote
bunglehead Posted July 23, 2004 Posted July 23, 2004 They have AIR CONDITIONING at the Crux now?! Holy fuck! Maybe I'll just have to put up with the kiddies and go back there. Quote
corvallisclimb Posted July 24, 2004 Posted July 24, 2004 yall wanna go to the sweet home boulders, pick me up in corvallis and ill take ya Quote
shapp Posted July 24, 2004 Posted July 24, 2004 Ryland, Chill - I didn't say anything bout people's private property being mine. I totally agree that we should not trespass without permission on private property. I am a huge private property advocate. I am just saying that as climbers it is laim to hoard a place in an area with limited rock, when there are many avenues to turn that piece of land into a park, preserse, conservation easement, many many things that would eliminate liability of the owners, while providing a mechanism for stewardship. Although, I haven't worked on a project like that for a climbing area, but I have for fishing access and a few land trade deals for habitat preservation, as this is what I do for a job. Also, climbers aren't the ones trashing those cliffs as I am sure you know. It is young teanagers who go up there and party. You aint talking to a newby who doesn't know the area. I grew up just down the road not too far and lived there for 22 years. But don't misunderstand me. I am not promoting people go use private property, and I aint saying I am entitled to use it either, but wish the area could be made public. BTW the butterfly lives way up on the hill, not in the woods, also there are osprey that nest at the cliff, right near the top of some climbs. I wonder if they have a voluntary no climbing season for the ospery nesting season, I don't think they do. Quote
corvallisclimb Posted July 24, 2004 Posted July 24, 2004 just curious what are the climbs like a coburg caves? Quote
shapp Posted July 24, 2004 Posted July 24, 2004 mostly bolted, few trad, mostly steep, fairly solid, 1 pitch, rock similar to umpqua areas Quote
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