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Posted

Lttle Cottonwood Canyon has incredible granite, is less than a 1/2-hour from SLC and has a great variety of routes. Send me a pm and I can see if my old guidebook is handy.

Terry

Posted

The trad around there is great, and others have discussed it, but if you are going to sport climb, and climb .11 and above, go straight to Maple Canyon. The cobbles are totally different than anything else you'll ever climb and it is a blast. There are routes sub.11, but they seem to improve dramatically once the ratings get to .11.

 

It's 2.5 hours from SLC.

 

Matt

Posted

And that's without getting into Logan Canyon, Mill Creek, and about a gazillion crags in southern Utah, and of course Zion.

 

Dr. Flash Amazing recommends picking up one o' them new Falcon guides that covers the whole state, and digging in to a veritable feast of good cragging.

Posted

My wife and I moved here (to SLC) a few months ago and I can tell you that all the recommendations are good ones but fail to take the temperature into account. It's freaking hot here and going to Zion, Indian Creek, Bryce Canyon and anywhere south facing in the canyons would be pretty psycho. Lone Peak would be dry punishment as well. There is good potential for shade chasing in the big and little cottonwood canyons, but the best place to go when it's hot are the High Uintas. There is some very well protected sport climbs there, many of which are north facing. The climbs above Ruth Lake are in the shade from morning until 3:30PM and range from 5.7 to 5.12 for the most part. There are a few trad routes mixed in. Joe's valley is good for bouldering, but it's a good 2 1/2 hours away and the bouldering in LCC is just as good (some may say, anyway). You can get a cheap photocopy guide of the High Uintas at the Black Diamond gym and the LCC bouldering guide is free on www.jugclimbing.com. The best guide to the Wasatch is not out of print (they lost the plates), so you'll have to borrow one. From the topos it's pretty obvious where and when you should be climbing. If it's super hot, check out Industrial Wall in BCC, it's got a stream through it that creates a natural air conditioner and has some good 5.10 to 5.11 routes.

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by IceScrewed:

If you're driving to SLC, it's worthwhile to break up the drive by detouring to City of Rocks.
[Cool]

now THERE's an awesome idea!!! too bad i won't have a partner with me ...

Posted

Matt Anderson is dead-on about Maple. If you can swing the drive, go there.

 

Some of the most fun and unusual climbing the Doctor has experienced. Don't forget to factor in a little time to adjust to the cobbles. It takes a while to trust that all the holds won't come off in your hands (although some of them do anyway). And the weather's great, even in summer time.

 

Good climbing can be had at Box Canyon, the Minimum Crag, Low Standard Cave, the front corridor (may have the name wrong), and the crag right by the bridge over the creek.

Posted

For an awesome alpine experience, go climb the Beckey route in Lone Peak Cirque (up Little cotton wood.) NW ridge of Pfeiferhorn is fun too. Little Cotton wood has great granite. Try Dorsal Fin for a longer route. American Fork is fairly close for hard sport climbing in the shade. Trade shows next weekend so beware of mass crowds!!

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