Offwidths and chimneys in the northwest...

[John Frieh]

NOLSe - what route is that?

 

East Face of Lexington. We linked it up with SEWS SW rib for a full day of fun... if you wanted to hold your own offwidth rally bash fest thing you should climb the east face of lex, walk off the west side and then climb the NW corner of NEWS (it would be right there) for a full day of offwidth sampling... that would be a h00t! There are some other photos in my gallery.

[specialed]

Third pitch varation to Freedom Rider on Lib Bell: fourty feet of just bigger than fists with nice crux bulge. Best real offwidth I've climbed in the northwest. I've got some photos somewhere.

 

Re: East Face of Lex - the tied off 2x4 is bomber and the retro bolts on the 5.9 squeeze should be chopped and probably will be this summer.

[John Frieh]

Third pitch variation to Freedom Rider on Lib Bell: fourty feet of just bigger than fists with nice crux bulge. Best real offwidth I've climbed in the northwest. I've got some photos somewhere.

 

Re: East Face of Lex - the tied off 2x4 is bomber and the retro bolts on the 5.9 squeeze should be chopped and probably will be this summer.

 

Sweet! I want to climb Freedom Rider bad… Good to hear its quality.

 

The 2x6 is rotten... at least the one I clipped in July was (or whenever it was I climbed it this summer). I pulled on the webbing that was threaded through the hole in it and the 2x6 cracked so unless someone has replaced it I wouldn't trust it. If you are climbing the route a 6" piece of something (wood, etc) or the new BD # 6 camalot is adequate... a # 5 camalot is too small. I used a # 6 (6 inch) tube chock and had no problems.

[specialed]

Cool. Point is those bolts are lame. The chimney is way secure. Freedom Rider is a bitchin route but I haven't yet done the last part of it from where it hooks up with Lib Crack. Bring at least two #4's and a #5 camalot-size for the offwidth.

[John Frieh]

Agreed. Those bolts don't belong... though does anyone know if the original party placed them? Currently there are 2 3/8" metolius fatties. And speaking of Lexington bolts does anyone know if tooth and claw has been retrobolted?

 

Thanks for the beta on freedom.

[specialed]

East Face of Lex is definitly my favorite route at WA Pass. That's supposed to be the bomb link-up: first few pitches of tooth and claw (11a friction)into standard East Face. BobbyPeru would know the status of the bolts on T&C.

[John Frieh]

bomb link-up: first few pitches of tooth and claw (11a friction)into standard East Face.

 

Combine that with either/both nw corner or w face of NEWS as the lex descent would spit you out right at the start of either of those and you would have a grade A dope shit day out. All the pitches on either one of those routes on NEWS are so short you can link 'em with a 70 easily. I’ll shoot BP a pm… thanks again d00d!

[lunger]

that is a nice link-up, and 1st few p. of tooth&claw for the most part = fairly new 3/8 bolts (my hangover-tainted memory of that day seems to chime in "there was a 1/4 somewhere", but don't sweat it, well-protected enough). can't speak 'bout the later pitches

 

and the lex chimney is secure, those bolts are lame

[EWolfe]

What OW are at Smith?

 

 

Anyone.........

 

Anyone.........

 

Anyone?

 

Off Tempo, .10a:

 

 

[bobbyperu]

yes!~ i like doin the first 3 on T&C...then the last 3 on the east face routes...tho heres a thought nolse....ever consider the adventure factor in climbing routes you haven't done... i mean for me thats a great part of the whole experience...i remember the feeling starting out wondering how good the bolts were gonna be....how far apart....how sustained the climbing would be...etc etc...intense stuff the unknown is. is this what they call adventure..? i look at guidebooks...talk to people, and get psyched...but try hanging on to some of that "whats up therr?"... in my opinion it only adds to the whole gig.