Dru Posted June 27, 2004 Posted June 27, 2004 In the Smoke Bluffs Lies a tiny crag named Lumberland. The original "Lumberland" route (10a) has been recleaned and a bolted station added to replace the rotting treestump belay. "Maple Cream" 10b/c 20m climbs the start of the GMB then moves right to two thin cracks. Mantle on diagonal crack above, wander up slab past 2 bolts then hand rail right to finish on top of Lumberland. Gear to orange TCU size plus the already mentioned 2 bolts. It took me 4 tries to redpoint so either I suck or it's 10c not 10b? FA: Dru and snoboy. In fact I am chestbeating from snoboy's computer right now. I should log in as him and ban somebody! Quote
slothrop Posted June 27, 2004 Posted June 27, 2004 You mean you have to use bolts AND GEAR on the same climb? Whoa. My mind is reeling. Is that sport or trad? I'm so confused. Quote
lummox Posted June 27, 2004 Posted June 27, 2004 It took me 4 tries to redpoint so either I suck or it's 10c not 10b? do you want an honest answer? Quote
snoboy Posted June 27, 2004 Posted June 27, 2004 Dru says, "Yes, I suppose an honest answer would be good." Quote
snoboy Posted June 27, 2004 Posted June 27, 2004 and dru also says YOU ARE ALL SO SUCK THE NODDDER OH MY GOD Quote
ClimbingH Posted June 27, 2004 Posted June 27, 2004 It took me 4 tries to redpoint so either I suck or it's 10c not 10b? do you want an honest answer? There wouldn't much fun with too much honesty Quote
Dru Posted June 27, 2004 Author Posted June 27, 2004 it is hard to tear myself away from browsing the super secret moderator forums while logged in as snoboy to reply to this thread as myself Quote
Mer Posted June 27, 2004 Posted June 27, 2004 Starts on GMB and finishes on lumberland? quel melange! Did you give the others a scrub while you were there? Quote
Dru Posted June 27, 2004 Author Posted June 27, 2004 yeah i cleaned lumberland up too but then some of the dirt clods from maple cream went over on lumberland after but... you could probably just tap them away with your nut tool on lead Quote
Stemalot Posted June 27, 2004 Posted June 27, 2004 hey Dru, got some photo of your new cool route? Quote
Dru Posted June 28, 2004 Author Posted June 28, 2004 So today Fern jumped on an old project that snoboy had scrubbed last year but never redpointed, and after an hour or two of work linked it together for an 11a/b first ascent. The route is just below Jug Slab in the Bluffs and climbs a copperhead seam thing past 3 bolts. w00t! i think this is ferns hardest ever lead? anyways i fell off seconding... Quote
EWolfe Posted June 28, 2004 Posted June 28, 2004 Mike Layton and I put up a six-pitch variation to the 12-pitch NE Arete of Dragontail Yesterday. Diehedral 5.10bR Quote
fern Posted June 28, 2004 Posted June 28, 2004 i think this is ferns hardest ever lead? anyways i fell off seconding... negative. hardest ever lead was 11worth 5.6 Quote
Dru Posted June 28, 2004 Author Posted June 28, 2004 wait a second what about your lead back up the south couloir in hiking boots and aluminum crampons when the rap rope stuck? Quote
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