Best Bouldering in Washington State?

[drater]

I remember reading John Sherman's book, Stone Crusade, and in it he stated "the best bouldering in Washington lies far to the East in Spokane at Minnehaha." This statement always pissed me off because I knew of a dozen spots better than Minny. I wanted to tell him as much, but knew the fukkker would probably put it in a guidebook if he knew.

 

So, I'm wondering, what does the forum think the best bouldering in Washington State is? Don't feel obligated to give up all the beta if it's a secret spot, just wondering what peoples feeling on the subject is.

 

Also, does anyone know what the hardest boulder problem in WA is?

 

Locations, rock type, FA's, ect would be appreciated.

 

Blowboarder

[mtn_mouse]

yah, eastern wa rocks!

[MCash]

I agree. If Minne is the best bouldering, then why are many of the problems overcome by moss and lichen. Also, I have never seen anyone else ever on the supposed popular routes like Dirk Diggler, Eddie's Overhang, To Have and Two Holds, Smokey on Fire, etc. The best bouldering would actually have people there bouldering.

[Skeezix]

Best alpine bouldering: Hidden Lakes Peak.

[Distel32]

Best developed in 11worth imo.

 

Give goldbar 3-4 years and then we'll talk again.

 

hardest problem is unconfirmed. There are quite a few confirmed 10's, and maybe an eleven or two, but nothing confirmed harder than that.

[Dru]

the boulders at the base of the north face of north twin sister kick ass.... olivine

[Bittertrad]

What's the deal with trying to keep bouldering secret? If it's on private land, I understand. Otherwise, is it just insecure people who are worried good climbers are going to scoop all their projects? This site needs more sharing of new routes/boulders and less whiny bickering.

[MCash]

Banks Lake has atleast 2 11s put up by Jonny G.

[pindude]

I agree. If Minne is the best bouldering, then why are many of the problems overcome by moss and lichen. Also, I have never seen anyone else ever on the supposed popular routes like Dirk Diggler, Eddie's Overhang, To Have and Two Holds, Smokey on Fire, etc. The best bouldering would actually have people there bouldering.

 

I'm not so sure that there are any established problems at Minne overcome with lichen or moss. As far as peeps bouldering at Minne, I see em out there all the time. Hey, Martin, why don't I ever see you bouldering?

 

I originally wondered about Sherman's Minne comment myself, but book was written when bouldering was just getting really popular (I think it helped it along), and I would assume Sherman did not know all of WA bouldering at the time. Since the book has come out, we've got countless new and outrageous problems all over the state, not to mention worldwide. Regardless, Minne's excellent for bouldering, and climbers and boulderers alike have a lot to thank the Vermin for.

 

 

Edited to add: I don't get around the state much just to boulder; if I'm travelling I'm likely doing some trad, alpine or sport climbing. I'm sure there are more bouldering areas that rival Minne, but the only other bouldering area I know of, and could be considered better than Minne as far as concentration of good problems, is in the Icicle. What are others?

 

Blowboarder, hopefully when you bouldered at Minne, you had a *knowledgable* bouldering local showing you round, and weren't going just by some guidebook. Many problems and rocks never make it into guidebooks--Minne's no exception.

 

Edited June 15, 2004 by pindude

[MCash]

Steve, take a look at all the bouldering in the Speaker Guide, then go look at them. Many of them have not been climbed in a long time. I've been bouldering at Minne in the evenings quite a bit recently and have never seen anyone else out. Maybe they are out during the day or on weekends.

[drater]

Best alpine bouldering: Hidden Lakes Peak.

 

Skeezix, where is Hidden Lakes Peak? The alpine bouldering at Cathedral Lake underneath Ampitheatre Mountain is unreal, real similar to Tuolomne Meadows, but more concentrated. Naturally clean w/ almost no lichen. Doesn't get any action so no chalk, it's onsighting every time you go! Amazing what 30 feet of snow all winter will do for some rocks.

[drater]

I agree. If Minne is the best bouldering, then why are many of the problems overcome by moss and lichen. Also, I have never seen anyone else ever on the supposed popular routes like Dirk Diggler, Eddie's Overhang, To Have and Two Holds, Smokey on Fire, etc. The best bouldering would actually have people there bouldering.

 

I'm not so sure that there are any established problems at Minne overcome with lichen or moss. As far as peeps bouldering at Minne, I see em out there all the time. Hey, Martin, why don't I ever see you bouldering?

 

I originally wondered about Sherman's Minne comment myself, but book was written when bouldering was just getting really popular (I think it helped it along), and I would assume Sherman did not know all of WA bouldering at the time. Since the book has come out, we've got countless new and outrageous problems all over the state, not to mention worldwide. Regardless, Minne's excellent for bouldering, and climbers and boulderers alike have a lot to thank the Vermin for.

 

 

Edited to add: I don't get around the state much just to boulder; if I'm travelling I'm likely doing some trad, alpine or sport climbing. I'm sure there are more bouldering areas that rival Minne, but the only other bouldering area I know of, and could be considered better than Minne as far as concentration of good problems, is in the Icicle. What are others?

 

Blowboarder, hopefully when you bouldered at Minne, you had a *knowledgable* bouldering local showing you round, and weren't going just by some guidebook. Many problems and rocks never make it into guidebooks--Minne's no exception.

 

Pindude, I lived in Spokane for 3 years, spent loads of time bouldering MInny and riding my MB all over Beacon Hill. Fairly sure I've seen all the rock there is to see on that hillside. Don't get me wrong, I don't think Minny sucks by any means, I just don't think it's the best in the state. I actually think the best bouldering in Spokomptan is at Dishman Hills, in a few areas.

 

Right behind the Water Tower above the main wall (can't remember what it's called) is a gully with a 15-20' steep wall running the length of it for a few hundred feet. The best bouldering usually has a hobo village set up under it but if you show up with a gallon of cheap wine they are pretty accomodating. Or you can boulder there just after the "MAN" comes thru and kicks them out for a few days. Some super sweet problems there in the V6-V7 range with harder ones too.

 

Also, if you ride your MB back in that nature preserve (that you are not supposed to) there is some killer shit. Best wall is way back in back, underneath some mansions in those canyons. Super sweet rock, steep faces & steep finger cracks. Watch out, seen rattlers every time I've bouldered there.

 

Another killer spot N of Spokavegas is the Manresa Grotto in P.O. River Valley, north of Cusick on E side of River. Conglomerate limestone, pocket pulling & knob pinching, super solid rock. Somebody super strong boulders there, I did some sweet problems in the V5-V7 range, but there is a bunch of problems I couldn't do the first move of & they looked harder from there. It's probably about 20% developed to its potential.

[drater]

Banks Lake has atleast 2 11s put up by Jonny G.

Johnny G. sent the sit down start to a 60 degree overhanging arete called Wajigigi in the Okanogan about 4 years ago, said it was V11 or harder. All I know is, it's finishing move is a V5 or V6 dyno off bad holds (and a cheat stone for me). He added about 12 feet of climbing underneath with miserable slopers, gastons, & sidepulls. Nice big jugs to pull your ass of the dirt at the start, though.

[pindude]

MC, let's do some bouldering together. Many of the cult of the pad people disappear after the local colleges (GU, Whitworth, others) end for the spring quarter...one of the beauties of Minne is that much of it is often deserted on weeknights in the middle of summer. I didn't know you'd been getting out there: that's more me not being there than you. I'll be there Wed evening.

 

Blowboard, I was just wondering how well you knew Minne. I never thought it was likely "the best in the state" either, but I'm not one to judge. I'd like to know comparisons too. Glad to know you are/were a local. I grew up in Spokane barely on the west (Glenrose) side of the ridge just to the west of Dishman Hills. Most of my first bouldering was in the DH Natural Area, and all the many rocks to the south leading all the way up to the Tower Mtn area while MB'ing, hiking/running, and riding horses through those hills--glad to hear you discovered them too. I'm involved with a group to try and save some of that property (south of DH Nat Area to Rocks of Sharon) from development, and at least establish one contiguous trail that is friendly for MB'ing, hiking, and horses. Many of the parcels south of the DH Nat area are still private, but much land has been purchased and is now public, from near Tower Mtn and down into the valley, where you can legally MB, etc, from an access point at about 44th Ave and Schafer Road.

 

Cheers, Steve

[drater]

MC, let's do some bouldering together. Many of the cult of the pad people disappear after the local colleges (GU, Whitworth, others) end for the spring quarter...one of the beauties of Minne is that much of it is often deserted on weeknights in the middle of summer. I didn't know you'd been getting out there: that's more me not being there than you. I'll be there Wed evening.

 

Blowboard, I was just wondering how well you knew Minne. I never thought it was likely "the best in the state" either, but I'm not one to judge. I'd like to know comparisons too. Glad to know you are/were a local. I grew up in Spokane barely on the west (Glenrose) side of the ridge just to the west of Dishman Hills. Most of my first bouldering was in the DH Natural Area, and all the many rocks to the south leading all the way up to the Tower Mtn area while MB'ing, hiking/running, and riding horses through those hills--glad to hear you discovered them too. I'm involved with a group to try and save some of that property (south of DH Nat Area to Rocks of Sharon) from development, and at least establish one contiguous trail that is friendly for MB'ing, hiking, and horses. Many of the parcels south of the DH Nat area are still private, but much land has been purchased and is now public, from near Tower Mtn and down into the valley, where you can legally MB, etc, from an access point at about 44th Ave and Schafer Road.

 

Cheers, Steve

 

Pindude, glad to hear about your efforts with DH Natural Area & surrounding land. It's always been a favorite of mine, hopefully you guys can put an end to the urban sprawl that is invading the area. Never got up to the Rocks of Sharon, tried a couple times, got shut down by irate local landowners w/ attitude (I'm sure they've dealt with a lot of people trying to get up there). I hear it is some of the best rock in Spokane tho, certainly looks impressive from the backside. Thanks for your input on Spokane bouldering, have you checked out those basalt boulders north of Mead, can't remember name of town (gas station/restaurant?) right there. I don't know if they are any good (basalt is so hit and miss) but they are numerous. Also tried a traverse at the base of Deep Creek, underneath all those sport climbs, super long and pumpy, never did it tho.

 

Cheers

[drater]

Best developed in 11worth imo.

 

Give goldbar 3-4 years and then we'll talk again.

 

hardest problem is unconfirmed. There are quite a few confirmed 10's, and maybe an eleven or two, but nothing confirmed harder than that.

 

Distel32, thanks for response. Lworth rocks for sure. Sweetwater should be called Sweetboulder. The Forest Service Boulders up the Icicle is pretty rad, needed a lot more development last time I was there (3 years?). Any other areas have a good concentration of problems?

Do you know details on any of V-hard boulder problems (loc, FA, rock type)?

 

Blowboarder

[Skeezix]

Best alpine bouldering: Hidden Lakes Peak.

Skeezix, where is Hidden Lakes Peak? The alpine bouldering at Cathedral Lake underneath Ampitheatre Mountain is unreal, real similar to Tuolomne Meadows, but more concentrated. Naturally clean w/ almost no lichen. Doesn't get any action so no chalk, it's onsighting every time you go! Amazing what 30 feet of snow all winter will do for some rocks.

HLP is on the edge of N. Cascades N.P. in the Cascade River drainage. Low-angle ridge above and through the saddle between HLP and the bump on the ridge that has the fire lookout on it has exposed clean fractured granite with countless vertical cracks and other options. Short hike in.

[Distel32]

Best developed in 11worth imo.

 

Give goldbar 3-4 years and then we'll talk again.

 

hardest problem is unconfirmed. There are quite a few confirmed 10's, and maybe an eleven or two, but nothing confirmed harder than that.

 

Distel32, thanks for response. Lworth rocks for sure. Sweetwater should be called Sweetboulder. The Forest Service Boulders up the Icicle is pretty rad, needed a lot more development last time I was there (3 years?). Any other areas have a good concentration of problems?

Do you know details on any of V-hard boulder problems (loc, FA, rock type)?

 

Blowboarder

 

Icicle has been heavily developed in the last few years, but there is still no shortage of rock. Tumwater is still being developed as well, one main area about .4mi in from the junction.

 

Cole Allen has put up some hard stuff as has Johnny G. Cole has said he has done some problems in the 11ish range. No shortage of projects that could be higher that those though.

[drater]

Icicle has been heavily developed in the last few years, but there is still no shortage of rock. Tumwater is still being developed as well, one main area about .4mi in from the junction.

 

Cole Allen has put up some hard stuff as has Johnny G. Cole has said he has done some problems in the 11ish range. No shortage of projects that could be higher that those though.

 

Distel, lots of problems out there could be way hard when someone who climbs that hard finds them.

 

You live in Bham, what's the bouldering scene up there? I remember a park on the ocean with some killer bouldering in it. Sessioned there a few times when visiting.

 

Any thoughts on areas with the most concentrated problems V5 & up? What about area with most problems total (V0+?). Define area as you park car and go bouldering without driving again.

 

Also, I'm suprised not hear more feedback from Seattle area climbers. I would think the west side of Cascades would have some areas developed that are good. Maybe everyone is keeping it quiet.

 

Thanks

[Distel32]

good areas near seattle: goldbar, index area, middle earth, tons of undeveloped rock.

 

I don't know about most concentrated. Leavenworth is obviously spread out. Park your car and walk, Squamish, hehe. We should just include it in washington since its so close and sooooo good.

 

The scene in the ham is good. Clayton and Larabee (the beach bouldering) is ok, traverses and some up problems, mostly eliminates. Fun if its a nice day out, but you can only climb eliminates for so long, and by so long I mean not very long. There are 4 or so main developed areas up here, some hard problems, couple of 9's and 10's. Two projects that will be around 10-11 range.

[drater]

good areas near seattle: goldbar, index area, middle earth, tons of undeveloped rock.

 

I don't know about most concentrated. Leavenworth is obviously spread out. Park your car and walk, Squamish, hehe. We should just include it in washington since its so close and sooooo good.

 

The scene in the ham is good. Clayton and Larabee (the beach bouldering) is ok, traverses and some up problems, mostly eliminates. Fun if its a nice day out, but you can only climb eliminates for so long, and by so long I mean not very long. There are 4 or so main developed areas up here, some hard problems, couple of 9's and 10's. Two projects that will be around 10-11 range.

 

Larabee, that's the place I was refering to. Pretty much remember it like you just described it, fun though for a visit. Middle Earth? Heard of it, don't know anything else.

 

Anybody know of any bouldering guides (online or print) for the state, I think there is enough developed bouldering out there to merit one. Been toying with the idea of writing Eastern Washington bouldering guide for quite some time, although I would have to omit all of Okanogan County to avoid getting lynched by angry locals. Which is a shame, because that's the best bouldering in the state IMO. But whatever, that's another issue.

 

So omitting the privately owned bouldering paradise in the 'Nogan (and about 20 other killer spots not owned by climbers that any mention of would result in my ass getting kicked) here is my list of bouldering spots in some general order.

 

1) Sweetwater/Icicle-Leavenworth-Granite

2) Manresa Grotto- Pend Oreille River (only because Sweetwater is more

developed)-Conglomerate

3) Dishman Hills-Spokane-Granite

4) Minnehaha-Spokane-Granite

5) Entiat Boulders-Entiat River Valley-Granite (in serious need of

development, awesome rock, V-Sick potential)

6)Horsethief Reservoir-Columbia Gorge-Basalt (all best problems closed)

7) Alta Lake Boulders-Pateros-Granite w/funky limestone veneer

(Yeah, I know this in OK county but since all the

holds were covered in lichen when I found them &

chalk when I left them, who cares)

8) Curlew Boulders-Kettle River-Granite

9) Pateros Boulders-Columbia River-Water polished granite (awesome

smooth slabs & faces)

10)Boulder Pass-Ferry County-Granite (almost no development, in need)

 

Also, good bouldering at Banks Lake& Tum-Tum Reservoir. Not sure where to put them as it's been years since I've bouldered at either and development at time was nil.

 

Should also say that if I could include all spots in E. Wash. then Sweetwater would be no higher than 5th or 6th.

 

If anyone is going to Barter Faire in October and wants to see some spots firsthand, PM me. Would love show you (after you sign non-disclosure agreement).

 

Distel32, if we want to include Squamish because of proximity and quality then we also have to include Oliver Boulders south of Skaha.

It's on private property but landowner is cool as long as you make contact first. Unbeleivable bouldering on super-solid Gneiss, edgy, crimpy, juggy & steep!!! And its in Canada, so while it's still in Okanogan Valley, it's not in OK County. HA HA suckers (that ones for my friends)

 

Who else knows some spots. The bouldering Renaissance is on, it's time WA got it's due credit.

 

All right, lets hear the spray from all the pundits, I know it's coming.

 

Blowboarder

[Crackbolter]

Walker Valley and Split Rock should be added. Both in the Arlington area.

[Off_White]

I don't think there are that many folks on this board who take bouldering that seriously. Distel is certainly your most likely candidate. I grew up in San Diego, so one of my criteria for great bouldering was something you could go to for an afternoon or after work. As I now live south of Olympia, there is no great bouldering. Well, actually, there is one very clean white granite erratic in front of the office at the Quality Rock quarry just west of Tenino. It would be available after hours, and has perhaps 8 problems on it. It took the two largest loaders at the pit working together to lift it a foot off the ground, so it's a fair size chunk of stone. Last time I asked, they didn't want to sell it.

 

Bouldering has never really been a destination sport in my mind, so even if you spilled the beans about the treasures of the Okanogan I'd be unlikely to travel 6+ hours for it. Granted, I think there are more and more folks who feel differently, but it's more a diversion than a passion in my book. I can appreciate someone else's love of it though, so I won't slam you for the particular climbing niche that gets you psyched.

[Sargent_Rock]

Blowboarder:

I really don't think you have to worry about getting your "ass kicked" or being "lynched by angry locals" in the Okanogan (USA side). Speaking as one with a bit of time on this side of the Cascades, it's so damn lonely over here these days, most of us (me) would enjoy even your company.

We just haven't been too keen to spout off about these areas. As anyone who has had to spend time waiting in a cluster fuck on a "Valley" route (or a Smith Rock route for that matter) would, I believe, agree, there's not much to gain from pushing these areas into the 21 century.

Love your passion for bouldering, dude!

Sarg.

[pindude]

...have you checked out those basalt boulders north of Mead, can't remember name of town (gas station/restaurant?) right there. I don't know if they are any good (basalt is so hit and miss) but they are numerous...

 

Sorry, don't know about these, even though my home is in Mead. The towns straight north of Mead along Hwy 2 these boulders could be near are, in order: Colbert, Chattaroy, Riverside, and Elk. Even though I climb basalt, and I've done my share of riding and trundling choss--Deep Creek, and the pillow-type basalt around Spokane--scares me and I tend to avoid it when I can.

 

Nice list, BB.