carolyn Posted June 7, 2004 Share Posted June 7, 2004 one thing I have been working on is not letting how other people climb or what other people say about a climb affect MY abilities. I cant tell you how many times someone of equal or greater ability than me struggles on a climb and my thoughts go to, "if they cant do it, I sure in hell cant either". Or someone gives me beta on a climb and I start hyperfocusing on that "one" move they are talking about. Well, I have definately seen some marked changes in my mindset over the past couple months. This situation is both a rant and a rave. Hopefully it will also remind people to be aware of the conversations they are having around other climbers. Yesterday was my first day climbing after a month off from a finger injury (not to mention the 28 days of rain we had ). I went to a local sport crag with my roommate. Not super familiar with the crag. My roommate doesnt lead or even climb much for that matter. For once I was the ropegun. I didnt have anyone else to "do things for me". This made me both nervous and excited. I was most definately psyched to finally prove to myself I didnt have to always rely on others knowledge/ability. So, the warm up climb I wanted was taken. Most everything was wet from all the rain. Choices were limited. I decided on a route harder than I would have prefered to start on. But what they heck! I knew I could do it. I was excited to lead a climb I knew nothing about, except the grade. And I wanted to keep it that way...until.... I am chalking up, dbl checking my belayer, studying the route, and these yahoos a couple feet away from me are talking about how half the bolts around here are shit. "I wouldnt want to take a fall on any of these bolts". Blah!Blah!Blah! Now I DO know enough about the area to know which bolts have recently been replaced, which climbs are dangerous, etc. I didnt appreciate their discussion so close to me and a bunch of other climbers. I stuck up for myself and politely asked them if they wouldnt mind taking a conversation like that further away from the rock where a number of people were leading or about to start. I made the mistake of telling them I am not the most seasoned leader yet and didnt need to hear things getting exaggerated like they were doing. They proceded to tell me that I shouldnt do the climb Im about to start on if Im not an experienced leader. Its a lot harder than it looks. "Ive seen REALLY good climbers deck on this route". Look at how far the second bolt is....blah, blah, blah. After much debate in my head, I said FUCK IT! Asked my belayer if he was ready. He was both a little nervous and psyched. I looked back at the guys who gave me the unwanted beta and saw them shaking their heads in disgust. I didnt struggle one bit on the climb. Clean, smooth, and efficient. It was a nice climb. Surely someone might hear this and think , "well they were just being honest and telling you something you needed to know for your own safety". Maybe. Somehow I think Unwanted and wanted beta can be put in a more constructive and less discouraging manner. And those guys....well I noticed some of them flailing on that same climb later in the day. Makes me wonder what their intentions really were. The rest of the day rocked! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figger_Eight Posted June 7, 2004 Share Posted June 7, 2004 Right on for not letting those punters get in your head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted June 7, 2004 Share Posted June 7, 2004 Right on babe! Some quebecers were telling me that some guy died a week earlier on a route i was gearing up for once in the bluffs. At the top I bent over and to the frogs! Nice lead babes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 7, 2004 Share Posted June 7, 2004 carolyn, don't you think you appreciated your send all the more because of the yahoos though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted June 7, 2004 Share Posted June 7, 2004 what a bunch of wankers. way to go, carolyn! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stemalot Posted June 7, 2004 Share Posted June 7, 2004 nicely done. way to go! as for the yahoos...don't offer advice unless people ask Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 7, 2004 Share Posted June 7, 2004 sandbagging is all part of climbing. both sandbagging with respect to grades, and sandbagging with respect to the level of protection and safety of a climb. learning to deal with sandbagging of all types is one of the skills every climber should develop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted June 7, 2004 Share Posted June 7, 2004 nicely done. way to go! as for the yahoos...don't offer advice unless people ask Yeah, or unless you're 90% sure that someone's gonna get hurt. And that's HURT, not: get their ropes stuck, get benighted, have a sucky time, or get their pants dirty. Doesn't sound like that was the case above since those guys ended up getting on the same climb . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted June 7, 2004 Share Posted June 7, 2004 Hey carolyn, good to see you around here again, it's been a while...? way to go ignoring those gapers. So many idiots bring so much ego to the crags that it's just disgusting...one of the main reasons i avoid sport crags these days, not that I don't like sport climbing, just that I don't like alot of the attitude you run into there... Anyway, warnings about deck potential are not necisarily a bad thing if done in a tactful way. If I knew about a route with a bad second clip and saw someone racking up for it who was unfamiliar with the climb, I'd probly mention something...like "Hey, carefull on that second clip..." But that's all that really needs to be said. After that the free advice is really just posturing. Once the climber is made aware of the risk they can make their own decisions... Anyway, glad you had fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Schuldt Posted June 8, 2004 Share Posted June 8, 2004 Cool!! Way to show those gapers how it's done! A female friend of mine complains about beta spewers as well. If a large group goes to the crag they have lots of time to get bored between climbs, so they talk shit to pass the time. Maybe it has something to do with a woman climbing in a mostly male sport. On another note, it souunds like your sholder it ok. That is good news indeed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted June 8, 2004 Share Posted June 8, 2004 Bottom line: 1.Suck it up and step up to bat 2.shut up and climb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted June 8, 2004 Share Posted June 8, 2004 Thanks, Coach. Now DO THE RED TOWER, BEEEYOOTCH!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted June 8, 2004 Share Posted June 8, 2004 sure, what's that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 8, 2004 Share Posted June 8, 2004 I heard someone once got stuck in this chimney so badly he ripped his nipple right off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carolyn Posted June 11, 2004 Author Share Posted June 11, 2004 Bottom line: 1.Suck it up and step up to bat 2.shut up and climb Ya, thanks mike! Thats pretty much what I was thinking. I think a bit of your attitude and eagerness has rubbed off on me! Dru- Yes, I did feel an extra bit of accomplishment I suppose, despite the nay-sayers. Kind of a bonus Good point about learning to deal with sandbagging. I guess the most frustrating part of it all was how I interpreted it....ie/"Im not a 'seasoned' leader in their mind probly meant I didnt know much about leading and possibly even climbing. For all they know I could have been climbing for 10 yrs...I could be climbing .12/.13's....I could be an 'unseasoned' .10 trad leader. I was fully aware of the runnout. I appreciated the reminder. I didnt appreciate them telling me I shouldnt be doing the climb. I used to ask people for beta on every climb I'd try. Over the past year I have been steering away from it quite a bit because I find I actually do better knowing nothing about the climb. My final reminder was in Jtree. I asked someone about a lead I was going to try at some point. They told me there was a spot where everyone's foot always slips. Every foot placement was terrifying (was this the spot?!?!?!). Wonder how different the climb wuold have been if I didnt have that information. (it was still a great climb tho! ) Hey, ya! That photo that dru posted....if you ever come accross that climb....DONT EVEN TRY IT! Very few folks have been successful w/o permanant injury or losing a part of their body. good reminder dru! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted June 11, 2004 Share Posted June 11, 2004 C-dawg. All I know is you STYLED dogleg crack in J-tree! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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