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Chicken Bolt?


Lambone

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There is a big fat bolt above the Tripple Roofs on Town Crier. It mellows out the fall potential big time, the fall is not dangerous, just big...into space. Is it a chicken bolt, or a replacement of an original Becky 1/4 incher. If it's a chicken bolt, I think it should be chopped. Sport climbing is one thing, but chiken bolts are bogus.

 

Btw- I don't know what all the hype is about the Crier. Sure its a classic line and all, but much of the rock is of poor quality, and the route is tamed by mass amounts of unessecary fixed gear. Anyway, it was fun, but forgetable. The Drag-On is a far superior line. Just my opinion.

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Let me clarify a bit.

 

My partner had done the route last fall and did not recall a bolt above the tripple roofs, about 15ft below the belay.

 

Others have stated that the bolt was a replacement of an old one. So my friend must have been mistaken.

 

"Chicken bolt" is a term i have heard wall climbers use to describe lead bolts added to a route by subsequent parties not bold, or skilled enough to continue with out it. I pose the question out of curiosity, not as an attempt to brew up more bolt controversy. I think pretty much everyone agrees that additional bolts should not be added to classic routes, unless to beef up an anchor perhaps. i think the bolt on that pitch is unnessecary, but if Fred placed the original, then so be it...

 

Maybe I was a little harsh on the Crier, it's not a bad route. I think I just got stuck with the ugly pitches.

 

Have fun, Cheers! [big Drink]

 

[ 07-11-2002, 03:54 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

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