Jens Posted May 28, 2004 Share Posted May 28, 2004 We always talk about particular routes that are harder if you are short, but never the opposite. What are some local climbs that are quite simply much easier for shorter climbers? I thought that this might be good food for thought? One that really stands out: (i'm only 5'7") Brass Balls Care to start adding to the list? Some say that overhangs, cracks, underclings,gastons, and limestone favor shorter climbers-- whereas vertical routes, slab routes, granite face routes, iron cross moves, stemming between towers, and dynamics favor taller climbers. Any thoughts?- local routes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 28, 2004 Share Posted May 28, 2004 there is this supposed 10b route at marble canyon i have never seen anyone under 5' 8" fail on and never seen anyone over 5'8" do (myself at 5'11" included) it is a bulge to a slab where you have to work your feet up next to your hands on the lip. the taller you are the more you stick out from the rock and the greater the force on your hands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted May 28, 2004 Share Posted May 28, 2004 Are you really 5'11", Dru? You struck me as short. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 28, 2004 Share Posted May 28, 2004 5'11.5" actually everyone under 6"3" is short compared to you, you walrus! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted May 28, 2004 Share Posted May 28, 2004 I guess the obvious one is the Nose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted May 28, 2004 Share Posted May 28, 2004 How about that flaring chimney thing 'The Lizard'? at Index on GNS? That seems easier for shorter people. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted May 28, 2004 Share Posted May 28, 2004 5'11.5" actually everyone under 6"3" is short compared to you, you walrus! Perhaps he wasn't referring to your stature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted May 28, 2004 Share Posted May 28, 2004 We always talk about blah blah blah ah baby. we hardly talk at all anymore. whynt you return my calls. or emails. where is the love? wait. what 'jen' is this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted May 28, 2004 Share Posted May 28, 2004 the one Dru mentions is the one that first comes to mind for me. It's called Variation 4 if anyone cares. It's like 5.8/5.9 for a shorty and whipper city for anyone tall. Kangaroo Corner in the Smoke Bluffs might be easier for shorter people because you can lean into the corner if your legs aren't all in the way. In weird tight spots it can be helpful to be small - the Butt Lips chimney for example, or another route in Squamish called Fungus the Bogeyman. I wouldn't think that any of those example are WAY easier though. In general I don't think height issues matter that much for most outdoor climbing. There are other factors that are much more influential to your climbing successes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_b Posted May 28, 2004 Share Posted May 28, 2004 let's face it, it's difficult to think of climbs favoring shorter climbers. shorter people have the advantage of a lower center of gravity but taller folks have greater reach. I can't think of too many instances when a lower center of gravity is a greater advantage than a longer reach. there is no doubt a point where the reach advantage is not enough to offset the torque associated with tall bodies (sorry cracked you are f*ed). pure friction, continuous cracks, cramped spaces and overhangs are instances when a lower center of gravity rules if the lack of holds is uniform or number of holds is great enough to cancel out the reach advantage. but let's face it few are the climbs where these conditions are met because friction or crack climbs or well-featured rock often have reach issues. short people just have to be better climbers which they often are (yes, i am short). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted May 28, 2004 Share Posted May 28, 2004 A short dude I used to know like to say "tall people reach, short people climb". I don't mind being tall most of the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 28, 2004 Share Posted May 28, 2004 Damn that Variation 4 :grr: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallstein Posted May 28, 2004 Share Posted May 28, 2004 The last pitch of Beggars Buttress in Yosemite is one the comes to my mind. Werner braun, the super crack master, who is fairly tall calls the pitch 5.12-. Every short person I know that has done it calls it 5.11. It is way easier to get into the critical stem if you have short legs. The Nose would be the other climb that seems critical to be short, or maybe just critical to be lynn hill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skeezix Posted May 30, 2004 Share Posted May 30, 2004 How about Cro Magnon at Peshastin? I think I remember folding myself up a bit on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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