Trango Directional Carabiners

[Collin]

Trango Directional Carabiners. Like or dislike? Positives? Negitives?

 

Trango biners

[iain]

where's the oversized tailpipe, spoiler, and "neuspeed" stickers?

[assmonkey]

My partner showed up with these recently (the wiregate version), and I laughed at him for bringing such pretty quickdraws to the crag. But after climbing on them a few times, I found that they clip really well. The thumb notch actually facilitates easy clipping, even the on the dicy clips (when your face is all smashed against the rock and you can't quite see, y'know what I'm talking about).

 

assmonkey likes 'em.

 

- a s s m * n k e y

[sobo]

Hmmmmmmmmmmm... While I don't have any of these biners, the "captive eye" design for the runner appears that it might actually be useful, especially given the bent gate. But at ~$8/pop, I prolly won't be draining the bank account to get some.

[kurthicks]

we've got some on the rack at the place i work. pretty nice action on 'em. if i was more into being a sporto i'd probably get some.

[sobo]

Wazzu,

As a disenchanted student in the Palouse, where do you work that requires the use of these biners (if I may be so bold as to ask)? Are you really an AMGA guide? In the Palouse?

[kurthicks]

I work at the Outdoor Rec Center on campus running the climbing trips and supervising the climbing wall. as for AMGA, I am a certified Top Rope Site Manager working on becoming a rock instructor or guide. The Palouse leaves a little to be desired though, hence the high mileage on my car.

[sobo]

Ah! Thanks for the info.

 

Have you heard about Lightning Dome on the SF Clearwater River? Pretty close to you, great grano-diorite, free camping, picturesque valley setting, great apres climb swimming hole, no trail passes required, no crowds...

 

It's still one of my favorite places to climb in the PNW, but now it takes me over 5 hours to get there, so it's really only good for 3-day weekends or vacations. For you, it would be about an hour southeast of Lewiston. PM me if you want directions, beta, or a copy of a (outdated) topo.

[kurthicks]

thread drift--yep, i've been there before. I might be going there this weekend actually since it's the closest multipitch (2-2.5 hours). it's an awesome chunk of rock in a sweet location. I have a copy of a topo from John Crock at Hyperspud, but if you've got anything else I'd love it. why don't you PM me about it?

[sobo]

I've got the same topo, but I've added some routes, a couple of which I put up about ten years or so ago. And then there's some contrived lines that a pair of brothers (The Mad Bolting Brothers) put up around the same time.

 

Hope it didn't rain on you all weekend. I consider any trip to LD before June just too early and weather-dicey to make it worth the 5-hour trip.

[Thinker]

I bought a few QDs with the Trango Directionals on them a few years ago for a gf that was just starting to lead. I liked them and wish I'd have found a way to end up with them on my rack when we split up our gear. I liked the wire gates better than the standards.

 

edit: not to be confused with these Trango Directionals.

Edited May 18, 2004 by Thinker

[bunglehead]

So, how are these less likely to cross load than a conventional QD arrangement? I don't get it. (I'm so dumb! )

[Ryan]

I've got two of these biners that I put on my cam slings and they work very well for keeping the biner stable for when I'm going for a desperate clip. I only use these biners when I'm climbing a clean trad line and I don't need to use slings to alleviate rope drag- they work very well in this application.

[Thinker]

So, how are these less likely to cross load than a conventional QD arrangement? I don't get it. (I'm so dumb! )

 

the sling is locked into one end of the biner so it's pretty hard to crossload it.

 

another thing I remember about the ones I had a few years ago is that I didn't think the hook that catches the wire gate was very 'positive'. I wasn't sure it would actually catch the wire if the biner started stretching/flexing under a big load.