JoshK Posted May 10, 2004 Share Posted May 10, 2004 Climb: Mt. Stuart-Ice Cliff Glacier, Sherpa Glacier Ski Date of Climb: 5/10/2004 Trip Report: Yesterday eric (paco), sky, jason and josh hummel and myself climbed the ice cliff glacier. Climbing in a group this large was a new experience for me as far as I can remember. It was a whole lot of fun! Credit goes to Eric for nailing the approach spot on. Not a single moment was wasted getting up to the basin beneath Stuart. The climb itself was great, with very good snow conditions for climbing. The ice cliff itself was a nice quick challenge with everybody sort of picking their own path through it. The bust through the cornice at the very top provided the only other technical challenge. Sky and Eric had already topped out when the rest of us got to the cornice and were kind enough to toss a rope down for us. Jason, Sky, Eric and myself went to the true summit and Josh (very intelligently) took what looked like a very comfortable nap in the sun at the notch where the ice cliff tops out. Eric downclimbed the sherpa glacier while the rest of us skied it. The middle section in the coulior sucked as it was quite icy, but a few sections of good turns were still had. Starting about 200 feet above the shrund the snow got awesome and perfect corn was ridden for 2500 feet or so back to the basin. It was well worth the weight of carrying skis up the ice cliff! Conclusions: *Having two guys with the same name (Josh, in this case) on a climb makes for the phrase "no, not you" being said a *LOT* *Climbing the blue glacier ice solo on the ice cliff with a lightweight ice axe, a whippet and aluminum crampons is NOT something I would recommended. This definitely provided the sketch crux of the trip for me. We also had a 6th guess. Donelley (sp?), who lives up at Hyak, joined us. He ended up turning around and skiing down just beneath the ice cliff, which I thought was a pretty damn good effort for a guy who had never climbed anything besides volcanos (I think that's what he said) and was climbing in true alpine ski boots! Gear Notes: 4 out 5 off us hauled skis up As for tools, we had a wide assortment of systems, ranging from the intelligently chosen 2 technical tools to the moronically chosen whipet, lightweight axe and alum. crampons combo. Approach Notes: Pretty easy, esp. if you take an Eric with you. Those of us hauling ski boots walked in sneakers until you leave the trail for the cross country route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted May 10, 2004 Author Share Posted May 10, 2004 CRAP CRAP...I meant to place this in the Alpine Lakes forum. Could a moderator pretty please move this for me?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted May 10, 2004 Share Posted May 10, 2004 nice work josh(s), et.al. kjosh, what did you think of my lusted after object? how'd it look? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry_Pi Posted May 10, 2004 Share Posted May 10, 2004 CRAP CRAP...I meant to place this in the Alpine Lakes forum. Could a moderator pretty please move this for me?? Hello capitalist! Harry Pi will attempt to move this over to Alpine Lakes forum. Please be patient. Thank you for allow commie to post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted May 10, 2004 Author Share Posted May 10, 2004 nice work josh(s), et.al. kjosh, what did you think of my lusted after object? how'd it look? Like a good way to die, at the moment! Just to make double sure, you are talking about to the right of the girth pillar, on the slabby face that leads up to the north ridge, correct? It sill has quite a few patches of snow ready to slide off in the next warm weather... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted May 10, 2004 Author Share Posted May 10, 2004 Here are some pictures. Full size ones are in the gallery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted May 10, 2004 Share Posted May 10, 2004 sounds like it, but a few more weeks and it oughta be clean? what'arya? too good to die? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted May 10, 2004 Author Share Posted May 10, 2004 And here are the skiing pictures: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lowell_Skoog Posted May 10, 2004 Share Posted May 10, 2004 Sounds like a fun trip. Nice pictures! I have been trying to track down when the Sherpa Glacier Couloir was first skied and by whom. I have a third-person report (from Armond DuBuque) that it was skied in about 1997 by Jeff Mazinko and Shane Wilder. I haven't yet confirmed this with the skiers themselves. If anybody knows about early ski descents of the Sherpa route, let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted May 10, 2004 Author Share Posted May 10, 2004 Hey Lowell, interestingly enough I think our Donelley may be the pesron that has skied the most of the ice cliff glacier at this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllYouCanEat Posted May 10, 2004 Share Posted May 10, 2004 Hey, josh, thanks for the pics and joining us on a classic climb. And, to add, I'm glad weathermen suck. The weather was awesome! Furthermore, overhanging cornices are surprisingly good motivators. I am less fat today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted May 10, 2004 Share Posted May 10, 2004 I am less fat today. Whatever, Jason, you're a skinny bastard. Nice work, guys, looks like fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted May 11, 2004 Share Posted May 11, 2004 Cool! I always thought the Sherpa would be a good ski. Nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade Posted May 11, 2004 Share Posted May 11, 2004 If only I could ski then I could avoid downclimbing the stupid thing. I guess one day I'll graduate from the "Colchuck Lake is my favorite backcountry ski" school of skiing. Nice job anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted May 11, 2004 Author Share Posted May 11, 2004 Yeah, I came to the conclusion on this trip that sideslipping that entire sherpa glacier coulior on skis is still better than downclimbing the thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted May 12, 2004 Share Posted May 12, 2004 Quit manufacturing desire! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted May 12, 2004 Share Posted May 12, 2004 Michael, you need to get some skis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted May 12, 2004 Share Posted May 12, 2004 grumble...yes you are right cracked. I started this year, made it down a token black diamond slope in March. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted May 18, 2004 Share Posted May 18, 2004 Go fat boy, go fat boy, go! Josh Hummel on the Ice Cliff below: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_A Posted May 21, 2004 Share Posted May 21, 2004 Man, gonna have to do this route... What was the ice cliff like? I'll have to get out the Beckey Manual. Sounds schweet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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