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Sabertooth

Best Route at Post Falls

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Fearless Leader on the Garden Wall is an awesome route. It puts every other route I've hopped on out there to shame.

 

Best easy route: Lost Arrow Spur.

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Isn't there a short 5.10 sport route there called "Rock of Ages" or something like that? It's an overhanging open book crack to a giant bucket that leaves you dangling in mid air. I never could get past that move, but had shitloads of fun flailing away at it again and again.

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that sounds like "the great controversy" 5.10b. it's on the right hand side of the lower ledge wall. it's a fun one, for sure. next time you give it a try, try a heel hook way up high with your left foot...

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Yeah - that's the one! I was able to make the heel hook and move a hand up to the face, but couldn't pull my sorry ass over the lip. Unfortunately, cursing at them didn't make the holds on the face any bigger. madgo_ron.gif

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I know that I'll get B.S. called on me for this since I bolted the route but Death Match 2000 is the best line at Post Falls. It starts to the left of Jude 24 over a small roof, then diagonals right to a set of chains 7ft. right of the Death Fall chains. It's super pumpy and doesn't let up till you clip the chains but all the holds are big. No tedious little granite moves. The Death Fall wall has a lot of the best routes at Post Falls.

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Do you know know how the name "death fall wall" came about?

No one died...btw.

 

Funny story now...not so too funny then.

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Seemed like the best objective in the area before anyone else really started climbing there in the '70s. So it became our main objective to get up the middle of the wall.

 

My inattentive belayer (thanks Tad, where ever you are) dropped me on a TR into the boulders at the base. Broken heel, a number nasty cuts head to toe and a t- shirt that looked like someone had shotgunned me in the back.

 

Should have been a death fall smile.gif Really killed my interest in spending a lot of time climbing in Post Falls afterwards. Cliff diving became the main reason I would return.

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Seemed like the best objective in the area before anyone else really started climbing there in the '70s. So it became our main objective to get up the middle of the wall.

 

My inattentive belayer (thanks Tad, where ever you are) dropped me on a TR into the boulders at the base. Broken heel, a number nasty cuts head to toe and a t- shirt that looked like someone had shotgunned me in the back.

 

Should have been a death fall smile.gif Really killed my interest in spending a lot of time climbing in Post Falls afterwards. Cliff diving became the main reason I would return.

 

So....you and Tad went and climbed elsewhere, presumably where he wouldn't drop you!? crazy.gifconfused.gif

 

Bill

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Fearless leader is good, as well as the Death Fall area. However, I really enjoy No Pryer Experience. Very clean face. Continuous difficulty.....all the way to the chains.

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Today I ran across this website and was delighted to see there are still some routes at Post Falls with their original given names. (Thanks Dane for adding your account of how the Death Fall Wall got its name. If I remember correctly, I first asked you and Jay Koopson about the area in 1990. You guys told me it was named Death Fall wall, but you didn't go into the details of how you named it. I am just glad that it didn't get called Flusher Wall, after the first bolted route at Post Falls, put up by Kyle Austin.)

 

Having been among the early bolters at Post Falls, and responsible for some of the routes, such as Fearless Leader, Freely Given, and Jude 24, it is satisfying to see others are enjoying them a decade later. There were a few of us who spent a lot of time cleaning the area, and bolting for both top-roping and leading. And when I left the area in '94 I counted over 120 bolts that had been put up, with the nearly half being top anchors. (So what is the count now?)

 

Marty, I will be up that way in late August and would like to share all the information I had on the original routes, first ascentionists, dates, etc. If you want to email me, perhaps I can put together some pdf files for you. Anyway, thanks for spreading the word about the place and continueing to develop the area.

 

Terre Gift

Vancouver, Washington

thebuildingofficial@yahoo.com

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SNAPHAUNCE 10b/c in the Lower 5th Canyon was one of the most enjoyable leads in 1994. It is a face route with 5 clips. It was put in by Jim and Brian Carlson in 1994, along with the following routes (from north to south): "3 Musketeers" -10d mixed with two clips, "Harquebus" -11a 6 clips, "Blunderbuss" -10c/d 7 clips, and "Cooup De'Poing" -11a 6 clips.

 

Does anyone ever climb those anymore?

 

Jim Carlson, Brian Carlson, Myself, Paul Dohrman and Jerry Thompson, each worked to develop some routes on the Lower 5th Canyon, while Rob Merkel and others were busy putting in routes at the Upper 5th Canyon. Across the canyon (on private property) another cliff, named "New Found Wall", was also developed by Jim Carlson, Steve York, and others. Anyone still climbing there?

 

Here are some of my favorite routes in order of grade:

 

"7 Steps to Heaven" (Lower Ledge Wall, 5.7)

"Freely Given" (Lower Ledge Wall, 5.8)

"Lost Arrow Spur" (Upper 5th Canyon, 5.8)

"Bullwinkle" (Rocky Wall, 5.9)

"White Water" (Post Walls, 5.10b)

"Snaphaunce" (Lower 5th Canyon, 510.b/c)

"Jude 24" (Death Fall Wall, 5.10d/11a)

"Death Fall Direct" (Death Fall Wall, 5.11c)

"Fearless Leader" (Rocky Wall, 5.11c/d)

 

 

Terre Gift

Vancouver Washington

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