dberdinka Posted April 20, 2004 Share Posted April 20, 2004 So I managed to pop off the tip of my tibia (medial maliolous) about 3 weeks ago and am now crutching around with what looks like a giant woodscrew holding the pieces together while my calf muscle withers away to nothing. The Doc tells me I can start weight bearing at the end of next week, followed by a month! of wearing a walking splint/cast followed by god knows how much physical rehabilitation. I know broken ankles are a pretty common climbing injury. Any first (or second) hand accounts of how long it took to recover from a similar injury? How long until you were out climbing again? Hopefully I won't end up like this!! -Wild Country camming devices ( bought the day before I busted my ankle and stopped leading ) includes flexible... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minus Posted April 20, 2004 Share Posted April 20, 2004 I was out running about 6 weeks ago with a mate of mine who was doing his first run for 4 years after breaking his ankle. He had pins in, then part taken out (bits snapped off when they were taking them out) and is just getting back into it gently. The point of this is while we were running I went over on my right ankle (only sprained it though, it turns out) heard a crack, and it swells up like a balloon over the next couple of days. Still swollen etc so sympathy all around. My mates advice was 1) have as little done to it by doctors as you are comfortable with 2) keep it moving GENTLY when not loading it. all the time. Good luck with the rehab. Oh yeah, and when crossing the road, remember that you can't run to get out of the way of that oncoming car. Still catches me out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted April 20, 2004 Share Posted April 20, 2004 You ought to crew for Alex on his Olson 30 while you are healing. At least that way you can be competitive and use your arms hauling ropes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted April 20, 2004 Author Share Posted April 20, 2004 It's hard enough getting into the shower right now, much less into a boat! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted April 20, 2004 Share Posted April 20, 2004 I fractured my ankle and ripped the ligaments to shreds when I was 20. It took about 8-9 months after the injury to be able to run again. So it likely depends on your age (younger is better), extent of ligament damage (less is better), and general fitness. Have to agree with the above comments - don't rush but find something to do to get some exercise. Come to the sping ski-in and man the keg! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted April 20, 2004 Author Share Posted April 20, 2004 The ligaments and tendons are evidently in good shape, all I got was the broken bone. My knees are already to shot to do much running, so how about the climbing folks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted April 20, 2004 Share Posted April 20, 2004 (edited) A friend did basically the same injury as you Darin and was very proactive about rehab, was in top form within 4-5 months. Biking uphill was the key as it is relatively low impact and builds calf muscles well. So, a quick diagnosis allows for a speedy recovery ( I had to wait 3 months for a CT scan while I withered away). Proactive rehab is key. The most important thing though is what happens to balance in an ankle injury. I am STILL fighting to regain balance four years after my break. I had two stupid, idiotic snow falls when I returned to mtneering after my break; my aknle just lost its sense of balance. Tougher to regain than pure muscle mass. All the best dude! Edited June 8, 2021 by jordop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Rooster Posted April 21, 2004 Share Posted April 21, 2004 The Rooster had this exact injury six years ago. Right Medial Malleolus. Relatively mild ligament damage, 2 steel screws surgically placed. The Rooster was back rock climbing exactly six weeks after his surgery- against doctors recommendations of course. Some lead climbing in eight weeks, but well below the Rooster's normal limits. Primary trouble was overall joint weakness, which improved quickly with climbing. The Rooster recommends face climbing and would discourage sticking your foot in cracks until a bit later, but he thinks you will need no encouragement in that regard. That was the only action that was not really possible until about 2-3 months out from surgery. The Rooster went ice climbing on top rope ten weeks after surgery. Ankle was about 100% for all activities after 4 months. For therapy, The Rooster recommends standing calf raises once you have some stability, lots of ice, and stretching exercises. Walking in sand at the beach (The Rooster recommends Hawaii)was actually also found to be a great way to strengthen the ankle joint, improve stability, and regain flexibility. The Rooster had his screws removed 18 months later, and highly recommends you do the same- if you break it again with those in there, your ankle will be pulverized to dust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted April 21, 2004 Share Posted April 21, 2004 i broke my shit(fib) snowboarding in mid december, crutched around for a bit, then got in the boot, walked alot and on my feet most of the day, didn't do a whole lotta rehab, as soon as possible i was in shoes with an air cast, this wasn't really all that neesssary, then just took it easy climbing, went snowboarding a bunch in the last couple weeks...and have been climbing below what i'm used to, but its also early season, and i haven't been too active in months...feels good, not 100%, but when i'm really trying hard, i don't notice. and on the ground after i can feel it but definatly able to get up stuff..my 2cents Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted April 22, 2004 Share Posted April 22, 2004 You ought to crew for Alex on his Olson 30 while you are healing. At least that way you can be competitive and use your arms hauling ropes. We're all full up with "gimps" as it is, on my boat! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jefffski Posted May 2, 2004 Share Posted May 2, 2004 i broke my fib near the ankle in december while skiing (close enough to be called a broken ankle). although i did not tear any ligaments, allthe soft tissue had been stretched. i was 6 weeks on crutches, and two weeks walking in the cast. i march, after the boot cast came off i started cycling indoors, threw a frisbee around and did a few easy climbs in the gym. i did lots of physio and home exercises but am not vety good at doing a little. when the phyio said to do some steps ups onto a stool, i did 200. oops. ended up hurting myself which delayed recovery for another month. later i went kayaking and canoeing. both were hard on my ankle because of the bracing, but it was nice to be outdoors. i am now playing a bit of ultimate, have been climbing twice and yesterday went on a real hike. progress is coming, but it is slow and i have to be patient. i may lead harder climbs later, but for now easy leads and tr'ing is it. good luck and try not to eat too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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