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climbing the north face of shuksan on sunday


mtnovak

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WEST SLOPES NORTH CASCADES AND PASSES-

WEST SLOPES CENTRAL CASCADES AND PASSES-

830 AM PST THU MAR 25 2004...UPDATED

 

TODAY...BREEZY...SNOW. SNOW ACCUMULATION UP TO 2 INCHES. SNOW LEVEL 3500 FEET. AFTERNOON PASS TEMPERATURES AROUND 40. SOUTHEAST WIND IN THE PASSES 10 TO 25 MPH.

TONIGHT...SNOW SHOWERS. SNOW ACCUMULATION OF 1 TO 2 INCHES. SNOW LEVEL 2500 FEET. SOUTHWEST WIND IN THE PASSES 10 TO 15 MPH.

FRIDAY...SNOW SHOWERS LIKELY. SNOW ACCUMULATION OF 1 TO 4 INCHES. SNOW LEVEL 3000 FEET. AFTERNOON PASS TEMPERATURES IN THE UPPER 30S. SOUTHWEST WIND IN THE PASSES 10 TO 20 MPH.

FRIDAY NIGHT...SNOW LIKELY. SNOW ACCUMULATION OF 2 TO 5 INCHES. SNOW LEVEL 2500 FEET. SOUTHWEST WIND IN THE PASSES 10 TO 15 MPH.

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Right you are, ChucK. With this kind of weather, its a little early to rely on weather forecasts for Saturday and Sunday, but Doolittle and Knight posted about all the new snow, and my intent was to suggeset that we probably aren't going to geat a huge dump.

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Interesting. From my perspective (an avalanche awareness gumby who has never climbed Shuksan), I was thinking your forecast (4-11 inches over two days) looked foreboding. You being much more seasoned than me in both snow assessment and Shuksan experience, seem to be downplaying the danger, or at least saying that it is not obviously going to be a deathtrap. Is that a fair statement?

 

How much new snow do you consider a bad sign? Perhaps as a skier, "no amount of new snow is ever bad!"? I guess what the new snow is sitting on is important too. It seems like the snow out there before these storms was fairly consolidated mush. That seems like it would be good?

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I can't answer your question there, ChucK. Obviously, 0" of new snow would be a better forecast. However, we are talking about a few inches a day, at relatively warm temps, and mostly with relatively moderate winds. This is not the stuff of EXTREME avalanche hazards.

 

Will it be safe? Who knows. The avalanches from Shuksan Arm on the approach can be some of the largest in the entire State, and the North Face itself is at a perfect angle and aspect to be dangerous this very weekend. I don't mean to sound like I'm "downplaying" the danger if by that you think I'm suggesting that everybody ought to ignore an obvious potential danger - but this is not a lot of new snow for this time of year in the North Cascades. It may turn out to be just fine.

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WASHINGTON CASCADES NEAR AND WEST OF THE CREST NORTH OF STEVENS

PASS... OLYMPICS...

Gradually increasing danger later Thursday morning and afternoon

and becoming considerable above 5000 feet and moderate below.

Slightly decreasing danger Thursday night. Increasing danger

again Friday remaining considerable above 5000 feet and moderate

below. Gradually decreasing danger Friday night.

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At least down here in oregon, they are calling for a decent dump of ~6" with fairly low freezing levels for March. With wind transport could be more or less. This is followed by a freezing level rocketing to 10k' on sunday. This might be cause for some concern, or at the minimum suggest some tedious sloughing in my opinion.

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