Ptarmigan traverse

[letsroll]

I know it is early but the sun has inspired me to look way ahead. Any way. Has anybody done this trip and could recomend some web sights for route info, or detail thier trip. What time of year is best? I was thinking about early June. What kind of pro should I bring, pickets, light rack, screws?

[Skip_M._Kliphiem]

There's glacier travel, bring pickets. Bring screws(as well as nuts and tools)if you want to climb the Formidable Glacier otherwise they're not needed, an ice axe is sufficient for the traverse. Your rack would depend on the routes you choose for the summits you wish to tag along the way, many can be scrambled, otherwise a rack is not needed for the traverse alone. See the green Becky guide for details of routes/summits.

 

Do a word search for some route descriptions and reports.

[TimL]

Check out mountainwerks.org. I believe Alex and MVS both route good trip reports.

[Alex]

Here are three trip reports with pics. If you google for it, you'll find a few others.

 

I would suggest early June as ... really really early!! Go July-August-ish.

 

http://www.mountainwerks.org/alexk/climb/TRPtarmigan03a.htm

 

http://www.mountainwerks.org/cma/2003/ptarmigan.htm

 

http://www.mtnphil.com/Ptarmigan/Ptarmigan.html

[klenke]

I was under the impression that the Suiattle River Road was washed out in several places. This may have been the case but it appears they've repaired all of them except the one at Downey Creek (at least, that's what the update is for March 2 on the forest service road conditions page). This is good news, as the start/end for the Ptarmigan Traverse is at the Downey Creek Trailhead. I don't know how difficult it will be to cross Downey Creek where it is washed out, but, we're climbers. We ALWAYS find a way. The Downey Creek washout only maybe adds a couple hundred yards to the approach.

[AllYouCanEat]

...The Downey Creek washout only maybe adds a couple hundred yards to the approach.

 

Wow, that must've been some flood to wash out the Downey creek bridge (if that's the case). I've kayaked downey creek a few times and have seen it at several different levels. You should be able to cross it on logs. If not, at the end of a trip like that, I can't imagine getting a bit wet would hurt. Here is a picture taken from the bridge during one of those trips

[JoshK]

Go early June if you are intersted in doing it on skis (highly recommended!) otherwise I agree with Alex, wait until late July or August to get all the flowers in bloom and whatnot. We did it with a single 30 meter rope and an axe each. No harnesses (planned to use bowline on a coil) or any pro. We only broke out the rope once, for a snowbridge on the middle cascade glacier. Last year was a bad snow year so I think things were a little more broken for so early in the year. I guess it all depends on how comfortable you are on glaciers, etc. I'm glad we didn't bring any pro, it would have just weighed us down more.

[Jim]

I think Josh has the word. Go as light as possible - you can still get up quite a few peaks w/o gear, just need some glacier travel equipment. I'd linger as much as you can along the way - camp at a couple of the cols if the weather allows. Fun place.

[tshimko]

Did the Ptarm' last year, was in good shape even in mid Aug.

If you can do it, bypass Kool-Aid lake, often too crowded, get just past the Red Ledge. Camping above there with OUTSTANDING view of north side of Formidable. Formidable is a good climb, even from the south side (take rope for possible raps, not needed if on-route, but lots of 3rd and some 4th class climbing). LeConte is good scramble(great views of S Cascade Gl), as well Old Guard, Sentinel. Plan a rest day at White Rock lakes (more outstanding scenery and just a darn nice place). You can get to Dome by descending and then keep traversing left almost directly to Dome Glacier. A nice alternate to the Batchelor/Downey creeks exit is to head east from Dome across the Chickamin Gl, cross ridge between Gunsight and Sinister (both worthy climbs btw) to the northernmost notch, then head south to Totem Pass, canyon lake, image lake (stellar views of N side of Glacier Pk) then out via Miners Ridge. If road is closed at Downey Creek, its only a two mile walk from the road end to there.

 

Unless doing technical routes on Formidable, Gunsight, Sinister, only need ice axe and crampons. Dome is quite exposed for the final 50' horizontal traverse, but quite easy, could be done w/o pro. One easy 3rd class move (fairly exposed) then 30' of severly exposed class 2.

 

[hopalong]

I think that you just can't get a car across the Downey Bridge. You still might be able to cross it on foot.