bunglehead Posted March 4, 2004 Posted March 4, 2004 Anyone? Like em? Hate em? What's your all around rock shoe? Spew, please. Quote
slaphappy Posted March 5, 2004 Posted March 5, 2004 I just purchased pair two. They seem to fit a wider foot quite well. Sensitive enough even close to shoe size. I used to only wear the Sportiva Miuras, but the doc said I'll need surgery if I don't start wearing wider more comfortable shoes. The Marathons have been great. They smear, climb cracks and face well enough for my humble abilities. Love that EVA sole. Second ascent recently had quite a few for around $80. Quote
John Frieh Posted March 5, 2004 Posted March 5, 2004 Love 'em enough to have 2 pairs! I am assuming you have a scarpa foot? The larger pair (44.5... 1/2 size down) I wear on routes where I want to walk off/wear the shoes back down the route (Burgundy, anything on Snow Creek Wall, etc.). Don't climb as well as my smaller pair (44... full size down). The 44, for me can climb just about anything I throw at them, but still are comfortable enough at the belays I don't need to take them off. They break in fast! You might also want to check out Five Ten's hueco and la sportiva's focus as good candidates for do everything all day shoe. Quote
snoboy Posted March 5, 2004 Posted March 5, 2004 My all around rock shoe always seems to be the LaSportiva Mythos. Keep trying other things, keepcoming back to those. Quote
layton Posted March 5, 2004 Posted March 5, 2004 i have a scarpa foot and the fit great, but not too sensitive compared to a mythos which fit me good too. in fact i'd say the toebox on the mythos is more comfy and precise. I've worn mythos on my feet for at least 28 pitches in a row and haven't suffered (and climbed hard in the same pair). However, the construction is very good and they should last you a long time. They do stretch quickly. Quote
Greg_W Posted March 5, 2004 Posted March 5, 2004 I love these shoes. I bought 'em one day and climbed a 12-pitch climb the next and they performed great. I even didn't mind the Scarpa Megabyte rubber, but I'll be getting 5.10 rubber on the resole. I bought them comfy for all day wear, but they still perform well on harder cracks (5.10). Quote
bunglehead Posted March 5, 2004 Author Posted March 5, 2004 I have the Boreal Ace foot Alas, me as well. I have very wide feet, so I'm looking for a replacement for my Aces. I had some local CRACKHEAD shoe store down in Yoo-gene re-sole them on some locals advice, and the rubber is SHITE, so I need new shoes. I won't be doing any 5.12's anytime soon ( ) but I do like to slap around on the sport routes as well as cracks, and bouldering. Quote
Dru Posted March 5, 2004 Posted March 5, 2004 i like Boreal Ace's I have been wearing them for 11 years now more-or-less. i had so many pairs of the black n green ones i skipped the red years and went straight to the blue ones i find Moccasyms fit my feet great too, but none of the other 5.10 rockshoes. WTF? scarpas are too narrow and sportivas just feel weird, like they are for someone with a club-foot. Quote
bunglehead Posted March 5, 2004 Author Posted March 5, 2004 Hence my dilemma. What's a guy to do? I need a new pair, but which ones will keep me as happy as the Aces? That's odd, Dru, That's exactly what I have, Moccasyms and Aces. Good combo, really. Quote
Dru Posted March 5, 2004 Posted March 5, 2004 I got some closeout Blue Aces for $80 CDN I think they are making it in Gray now, so you can continue with Aces if thats what works for you Quote
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