Fisher Chimneys in May?

[Ryan]

Anyone climbed the Fisher Chimneys on Shuksan in May? If so- how was it (snowpack, weather, route condition, etc)...?

[MrDoolittle]

Depends on how much snow we get this winter. Sometimes it's better to go later, so that the chimneys are devoid of snow. Getting up to Winnies Slide can be a bitch if the chimneys are a mess. Earlier, more snow, good climbing in the gullies, but the "trail" in the chimneys can get sketchy. Of course, if you go later, the Upper Curtis can be a mess, and it may be difficult to get onto Hell's Highway. If I were you, I'd check here as May approaches, or call a guide service that guides this route(AAI, AAI, MM[???]), and see if they have current conditions before you commit.

-J

[sverdina]

Attempted the route in early July a couple years ago (low snow year). We encountered steep, wet, and unconsolidated snow. Nobody, it appeared, had attempted the route yet. Whiteout & route finding issues eventually turned us back. Having successfully repeated the route in early August of that same year, I can say that ascending the Chimneys while they're free of snow is probably preferred. Winnies Slide and the Upper Curtis Glacier were also non-issues that year, though I suspect both generally go out-of-shape towards late Aug - Sept. But, then again, I know of at least one party that has skied (and presumably climbed) the chimneys in winter.

[Superman]

I'll have to concur with sverdina since I was also on that particular outing with him that fateful June. The snow was like soggy grapenuts. It gets pretty exposed in places too, so the combination of the lousy snow conditions and exposure isn't fun. I'd do what Mr. Doolittle said and wait until May and watch this very forum to see if folks can give you any information on specific climbing conditions. Usually by then at least a couple of parties have been up there.

 

And not to contradict what Mr. Doolittle said, but I doubt you'll find a [mainstream] guide service who would guide the Chimneys that early in the season.

[Ryan]

Alright, sounds good. My partner and I would really like to get on Shuksan when we're out there, though- if the Chimneys are not in good condition, would a route like the Sulphide Glacier be a better option?

[Superman]

Sulphide will go fairly easily in May fer sure -- condition dependent of course. You might also want to check out the N. Face.

[Ryan]

Cool, what does the North Face involve...rock, ice..?

[JoshK]

The N Face will likely be mostly snow at that time. It is generally steep snow or ice depending on the season, probably around 45 or so. It depends on how confortable your party is on steep and exposed snow/ice. If you aren't, take skis up the sulphide. I've skied it in May and it makes for a great trip. If you feel up to the north face, it's probably a good time of year for it, I would imagine there is a good deal of the slide alder and other nasty shit still covered that wouldn't be in the summer.

[Alex]

I agree N Face is going to be the nicer route in May.

 

Might I also suggest Price Glacier?

 

The Sulphide is pretty much a ski-mountaineering trip that time of year, might not be worth your while unless you are looking for the summit more than the experience of a good route.

[Dru]

you could also possibly still ski up the white salmon gl in may?

[mattp]

I'd be a little shy about recommending the Price. I know it's in 50 crowded climbs and it is a very beautiful place, but the route passes beneath a whole lotta seracs and the upper headwall is steep and northeast facing so it tends to hold lingering avy danger. The apprach is not trivial either. It is generally climbed as a carry-over, with a bivouac somewhere on route and a car shuttle. It's not a death route, but I don't think it is one to take lightly either.

 

I've climbed the North Face in early May and it was a very pleasant alpine romp.

 

Dru's right, too, that the White Salmon is a good choice in May. I've skied it twice at that time of year.

 

On a nice weather weekend, the Sulphide Glacier can be downright crowded in May.

Edited February 27, 2004 by mattp

[JoshK]

I'll second Matt's concerns about the Price. I have not summited the route but I have been about halfway up it and in the cirque twice before. It's a more serious climb than the N face or FCs for certain. It's one huge benifit is I can pretty much assure you won't see anybody else back there at all.

[AllYouCanEat]

As long as you keep your eyes open you'll be able to climb FC's in great conditions in early spring. You may have to go to the base once or twice and walk away. If you have skis then you could just ski the local BC which is very exceptional. A weekend cannot be wasted if you don't make the top of that route. As for the Price, I'll have to agree, we were less than a minute from getting wiped out on that route as clouds lifted and the sun came out in full force. Otherwise, my philosophy has always been, "Make the choice when I get there." A smart climber levies that decision when things feel wrong. Good luck and give us a TR when you get back...

[layton]

Props on the price info. It's worth a hike back there for the scenery, however! Beckey's nooksack tower route would be a better choice for back there that time of year!

[mattp]

Nooksack Tower

 

The Bertulis route is good, too.

[Ryan]

Sounds good- we don't have skis, so it looks like we'll be doing alot of slogging. Might not be worth our time, but we'll see how the conditions are when we get out there. Thanks very much for the info!