ice update

[glassgowkiss]

littlewet is getting more then littlewet. spring like temps even in marble and on duffy lake rd. marble has still a lot of ice. i tr'd a couple of projects on sun. (due to a lack of drill). i am going back there to bolt these lines next week.

red wall wondrer is still in. a lot of climbs in the sun are falling off or falling apart. eagle ears has much less ice (solid m7) and no, really is still in too.

snow coditions are better, but n facing slopes have plenty of white to cause slides. most of s. facing slopes already ripped.

if the temps stay like this there is not going to be much ice left within days.

[Ryan]

If any of you are in a fix for ice and have the patience (for the drive in), Hyalite is in great condition, and should stay that way for awhile I'd imagine. Climbed the Dribbles the other day and it was FAT. All the popular routes were looking good (Cleo's, Genesis, Mummy, etc). Snowpack is pretty good as well. The crux of the whole venture will more than likely be getting to the trailhead...the road is rutted, but if you have a sled, you're golden. Just thought I'd make all of you coastal people jealous!

[Alex]

I am going to Banff Friday. So much for jealous.

[kurthicks]

too bad it's been like 40 up there all week. it's supposed to get cold again by this weekend. i read that Cascade is falling down already. i'm still jealous though...

[Alex]

On a serious note, I spoke with Kevin last night and he said that there was still plenty of stuff to climb around Lillooet to make it worth your while. Stuff up in the Bridge, Oregon Jack, anything higher up will be around a while longer. I think Kevin said Loose Lady was looking awesome, and Carls Berg in 4+ -ish shape.

 

Another way to think about it is, I mean, if the ice in the Alpental valley is still fat, then ice around Lillooet can't be half bad???

[Don_Serl]

yup, getting warm, but as long as it stays reasonably clear overnite, the ice is still forming, not disappearing, on the shady stuff. sun-exposed climbs are a different story! note also that the trends graph continues to record actual temps about 2ºC lower than the forecast, so drop another 3ºC to 5ºC for true temps at climb height, and it's not thawing much of the day.

 

here's what i've heard/seen on the duffey:

 

closet secrets fat/solid, but ade/robert struck a geyser with a screw.

rambles fat/still almost dry.

carlsberg fat/4+, but will start getting sun.

sargeant pepper was in nice, but is probably getting sun now.

deep throat might still be OK.

tube fat but a bit drippy.

loose lady hard (when is it not?), a bit drippy.

red wall wanderer fat/dry except for crux pillar, which is drippy.

time to leave synchronicity alone - way too much sun!

 

as others have said, M/C shld remain fat and damp for a while yet. oregon jack is really high, so will be fine. i reckon night n gale and the shriek will be OK for a while, cuz they're high, but most of the other bridge river canyon stuff starts getting pretty sunny now.

 

cheers,

[daler]

Alex,

 

I'm in Banff so you have to be jealous for one more day!!!

Climbed Bourgeau Left today. it is in great shape with nice sunbaked sticky ice on the survace. Avy conditions are getting good!! "safe"

 

dale

[Alex]

I'll see you in hell, Remsberg!!!!

[ryland_moore]

Heard they cancelled the icefest in Canmore b/c all the ice fell down!

[geordie]

Cascade may be gone, but Professors was nice yesterday...

Stuff in the Ghost was good too. Looking at the weather reports from Seattle isn't the same as being there... suckaz.

[Wallstein]

I've been up in banff for a little over a week and it has been pretty warm. Things have been falling down. Ice Nine fell down the day after we did it. SCARRY. But everything that is still standing is in pretty easy conditions.