Clipping 101

[Dru]

 

pagetopping 101

[mattp]

To Erden's explanation, I would add that if you have your biners both oriented the same way on your draws, you will not end up with one of the gates facing the rock when you use it in a corner. One of my partnes insists on racking all his draws with the gates opposite of each other - that's how he keeps it consistent - but I think it is better to keep them facing the same way as Erden describes.

[sk]

To Erden's explanation, I would add that if you have your biners both oriented the same way on your draws, you will not end up with one of the gates facing the rock when you use it in a corner. One of my partnes insists on racking all his draws with the gates opposite of each other - that's how he keeps it consistent - but I think it is better to keep them facing the same way as Erden describes.

that was one of the things that I did as i prepared to climb. I took along look at the draws that I use ( I don't own any... just borrow) and made sure all the beanres went the same direction, I racked them how it feels comfortable for me, and realy thought about HOW I like to lead. it was SO GOOD to be outside again!

[girlclimber]

So if you wanna keep it short and simple, you could just (1)make sure to have the biners facing the same side, and (2)clip with the gates facing away from the direction you're moving? Is that right?

[whirlwind]

for the most part

[snoboy]

Have rope coming from the back to the front, that's the rest.

[Dru]

snoboy's point is the real important one

 

having both gates facing the same was is debatable i like to have some-one way and some the other (gates facing in opposite directions) you never know what the situation is where you will be clipping. as matt noted in a corner it is good to have both gates facing out but there are situiations where you might want the top and bottom gates facing in opposite directions.

 

if the climb traverses at all, you want the bottom gate facing away from the direction of the traverse. if its straight up it doesnt much matter

 

see HOW TO SPORT CLIMB book for more info.

[snoboy]

I keep all my gates the same way, but the top biner is easy to flip, once clipped, so if I need a gate out of a corner or something, it's no big deal.

 

Here I would be climbing from right to left, and "C\ is a biner with the gate right and down:

 

x

\D

|

C\

 

becomes:

 

x

C\

|

C\

[catbirdseat]

Just to flog a dead horse some more:

 

Supposing you goofed and for whatever reason you backclipped and knew it. What is the best way to deal with it: leave it be and try not to fall, unclip the rope and do it right, or rotate the biner?

 

I suppose the answer would depend on the situation. If it was the second bolt, I'd take the time to get it right. If the last one, I'd blow it off.

[snoboy]

I thnk you answered your own question...

[scott_harpell]

Either way, I would climb through it. If you fall while fidgiting, you are gonna deck. 99%(??) chance if you fall on it, it will hold ya. Why fidget and risk a ground fall to protect an anomoly?