[TR] Prusik Peak- West Ridge 1/26/2004

[Colin]

Climb: Prusik Peak-West Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 1/26/2004

 

Trip Report:

Mark and I climbed the W ridge of Prusik today, after spending Saturday and Sunday skiing in via Snow Creek. In the general Enchantments area there is about 3-4 inches of new snow on top of a crust. We saw lot's of ice on the approach - in particular, there are many pitches of ice above Nada Lake.

[JoshK]

fun fun! How much snow on the ridge itself? Enough to make things interesting?

[catbirdseat]

So what is it like? Did you use boots or boots with crampons?

[Colin]

We hauled crampons and tools all the way in there, but ended up just doing the ridge in boots and gloves - There was lots of snow on the ledges and holds, but no ice. The 5.7 slab was interesting in plastic boots...

[catbirdseat]

Plastic boots on slab...interesting!

[Gary_Yngve]

Sweet! How did you descend? I imagine most of the rap anchors on the north face are buried beneath the snow, and the lower part of the north face where you traverse back over to Prusik Pass seems like the right angle for avalanches.

[Colin]

We rapped down the standard North face. We found the first rap anchor, but then had to build two of our own. The traverse back to Prusik Pass is a bad angle for avalanches, but the snow was quite firm. There has been enough wind up there that the fresh snow has only accumulated in some spots.

[catbirdseat]

Hey, at least you had boots. People often do that traverse in rock shoes or at best tennis shoes.

[layton]

Hey, at least you had boots. People often do that traverse in rock shoes or at best tennis shoes.

 

I tried doing prussik in winter w/tennis shoes. That sucked

[Squid]

That slab is north facing- was it iced up, snowy, or clean?

[Marko]

Clean, cold, and wind-whipped. The ledges and cracks had snow but no ice. We foolishly brought tools and crampons up the trail but wisely left them at the tent!

[Collin]

Any idea how the approach and south face is this time of year?

[tomtom]

Any idea how the approach and south face is this time of year?

 

I was up there Memorial Day weekend. The trail to Snow Lakes was snow free, and about 50-50 above to the south face and west ridge. The routes looked snow-free.

[Crackbolter]

There is still snow coming from Snow Lakes and Vivian is mostly still frozen over although the lake outlet is melted out. The S. Face is totally dry. The traverse back to Prussik Pass will be in snow as well.

[thrutch]

Down climb the West ridge!

[eric8]

I didn't have a probelm rapping down from just above the slab Memorial day weekend