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Posted

I warp out on this stuff.

 

Mix and Match any of these climbs....

Pine Creek:

Dark Shadows.......Birdlands

Cat in theHat........Crabby Appleton

Community Pillar.....Mescalito reg. route

Chocolate Flakes.....Edge of the Sun

 

Juniper Canyon:

Ginger Cracks....Olive oil

Black Dagger....Cat Scrach Fever

Crimson Chrysalis....Cloud Tower

Rainbow wall.... Brown Recluse

Cloud Tower.....Rainbow wall orig. Route

 

Oak Creek:

Solar Slab......Beulah's book

Black Orpheus....Chicken Lips

Strawberry Sweat....The Friar

Resolution Arete....Levitation 29

Black Velvet:

Froglands....Any other climb in the canyon

 

Have fun.

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Posted

Nightcrawler and Black Dagger is another good one. Also good: Ginger Cracks, Unimpeachable Groping, Power Failure!

 

Res Arete and Levitation 29 seems somewhat longish, but I guess you could do it? I'd be too pumped to do it thats for sure. Some of those link ups seem pretty random? What was your criteria?

Posted

i done crappy appleton and edge of the sun one afternoon. pretty damn fun.

but the best linkup i ever done was a slow bang with a woman i love right when i woke up then breakfast at the rio then a leisure hike to frogland then climbing frogland then wathcing the moonrise then some beer and dinner and shower and back to bed for more loving. that was a good day.

Posted

Begin the training program...

Trail run: 10 miles twice a week.

Climb: 15-30 pitches twice a week.

Rest : 3 days a week.

 

Repeat 6 times, rest for 3-5 days

Send.

 

Drink: many beers to heal broken body...

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Posted

A late season recon up the Crabby Appleton gully to investigate a hunch.

This watercourse takes an exciting line up the western side of Magic mtn.

4th and 5th class scrambling leads to loose talus and finally, a small pass.

 

My hunch was true!

The top of Olive Oil was 50 feet away.... this means that a savy Olive Oil team can drop down to any of the popular long routes in the south fork of Pine creek in a matter of 20-30 minutes.

Tired from the hike, I find a sheltered spot and fall asleep in the sun...dog dreams again!

Posted

A couple freinds of mine did quite the proud link-up in Red Rocks this winter...Levitation 29, Cloud Tower, and Epinepherine all in under 24 hours. If you've done these routes you know the crux was all that hiking.

Posted

Many of those are impressive routes to be done alone in a day, Impressive link ups. I used to go to red rocks and climb as many routes as I could per day, after 3 days of hard climbing my trip was pretty much over. Now days I take a week and start out slow, take warm up day of easy sport, a long multi pitch route, a rest day, hard multi pitch day... My objective is to get alot of routes in durring the whole trip, but then I am just a mortal climber.

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