CascadeClimber Posted January 5, 2004 Posted January 5, 2004 Saturday: High of +1F at the Rambles. Brrrr. Sunday: -5F at Marble Canyon. BRRRRR. Deeping is a fat as I've seen it. IcyBC is pretty anemic. Kudos to the guy who led the first pitch on Sunday. More to his belayer who was patient for an hour while turning into a popsicle. We felt like the two stooges climbing team as we dropped screws and fubared ropes. There is roadside ice from Chilliwack to Lillooet. Have some pics coming. I think someone may have accidentally picked up a biner with two blue DMM double length spectra slings and a yellow Mountain Tools Webolette at the Rambles. Maybe the Guide and his client? If so, would sure like to get them back. Rumor is that someone climbed Shreddie clean in the last week? Another rumor that the ramp rap on Synchro can't be done right now on double 60s. The tree on the face is gone, too. Thumbs down to the Reynolds, who gave away our room on Friday night even though we had a reservation. They've also raised their rates to $43/night, which is only a few dollars less than 4 Pines. Still a great place for a big, greasy breakfast and morning chit-chat with the locals. -L Quote
Alasdair Posted January 5, 2004 Posted January 5, 2004 "Another rumor that the ramp rap on Synchro can't be done right now on double 60s. The tree on the face is gone, too." Yes it probably can. We had 55m ropes and were very close. No will will not be able to reach a tree at the top of the ramp, but you will be able to get to where the ice angle eases enough that you can walk to the base of the next pitch. Quote
Dru Posted January 5, 2004 Posted January 5, 2004 Shreddie has been bolted as of Dec 20 (M6 WIhard) but had been previously done as a bolt less mixed route.... Quote
Alex Posted January 5, 2004 Posted January 5, 2004 Another rumor that the ramp rap on Synchro can't be done right now on double 60s. The tree on the face is gone, too. I've only done that route once, but I recall it being about 75(+?) m from base to the closest tree. My partner simulclimbed about half the pitch. There is a belay about 50m up on the left hand side in the rock, off pins I think Quote
CascadeClimber Posted January 5, 2004 Author Posted January 5, 2004 When I climbed it we rapped directly over the face (not down the ramp) from the lowest tree, and just touched down with double 60s. We didn't use an intermediate rap. I just wanted to pass along the info- it would suck it be left hanging in space there. -L Quote
Alasdair Posted January 5, 2004 Posted January 5, 2004 " it would suck it be left hanging in space there." Yes it did... If rappelling I recomend you follow the ice and not go off of the face so that you will be able to get a v thread in. If you do go off of the face there is a pin that you could try your luck rapping off of, but you will likely die trying. Quote
DPS Posted January 5, 2004 Posted January 5, 2004 I think someone may have accidentally picked up a biner with two blue DMM double length spectra slings and a yellow Mountain Tools Webolette at the Rambles. I am still using the last web-o-lette you lost on Vesper. Quote
Lambone Posted January 5, 2004 Posted January 5, 2004 RE: Synchro ramp rappels... I'd recomend not rapping the rock face from trees. We didn't make it and were left dangleing in space in the darkness, had to unclip on some sketchy stance with no belay...it was fucked. Maybe we did it wrong, but I won't make that mistake again! Quote
Dru Posted January 5, 2004 Posted January 5, 2004 re: synchro rappels, I would recommend following the trail of webbing down the climb. Its getting done about once a day thru the week, and weekends too. Those people all make it down (albeit some have epics ) and you can too. Based on what Marcus and Russ told us in the restaurant Sunday AM (not early) having a Tibloc along can prove very useful Quote
CascadeClimber Posted January 5, 2004 Author Posted January 5, 2004 re: synchro rappels, I would recommend following the trail of webbing down the climb. Its getting done about once a day thru the week, and weekends too. Those people all make it down (albeit some have epics ) and you can too. Based on what Marcus and Russ told us in the restaurant Sunday AM (not early) having a Tibloc along can prove very useful I saw them Saturday morning at the Reynolds, and I saw their truck in the dark at the bridge that night. I don't envy them that deproach in the dark. Quote
JayB Posted January 14, 2004 Posted January 14, 2004 " it would suck it be left hanging in space there." Yes it did... If rappelling I recomend you follow the ice and not go off of the face so that you will be able to get a v thread in. If you do go off of the face there is a pin that you could try your luck rapping off of, but you will likely die trying. FWIW I rapped by the pin that I think you are talking about on my way down (it had a loop of black webbing on it) and it came out as I was soon as I grabbed the webbing to pull myself in towards the wall and take a look at it. Anyhow - a pair of 60's will enable you to touch down if you rap off of the lowest tree, but take care getting to the said tree as a slip en route to that rap station would be a very bad thing. Quote
Ade Posted January 14, 2004 Posted January 14, 2004 FWIW I rapped by the pin that I think you are talking about on my way down (it had a loop of black webbing on it) and it came out as I was soon as I grabbed the webbing to pull myself in towards the wall and take a look at it. Yep. That was it. Probably best removed. It was a bit on the directional side. Quote
glassgowkiss Posted January 15, 2004 Posted January 15, 2004 routes update. talked to Jia last night. shreddie is more like M7/7+. according to him there are some sloping hooks, sidepulls, so it is a full on pitch. 6 bolts lead to the ice. there is another climb in the left hand corner, just to the left of shreddie, in the same cleft. there are bolts on the first pitch and stubbies on the second. he said he might bolt the second pitch. also somewhere in this range as far as the rating goes. chris and jia did not top on the theft due to warm weather. so it is still an active project. the chimney on the bottom is supposed to have some fun mixed climbing, stubbies for pro. the rock leading to the final ice is a complete choss. this weather sucks! it's +7C in littlewet right now. things are turning into slurpie right now and a few more days of this crap and we'll have to start with ice from a scratch. the farm in blackcomb is in, at least a couple of days ago. there are several mixed lines on husume (sp?) butterss. according to a couple of sources leave your screws at home for these routes and bring your rock gear. as soon as it gets colder i will be checking these 2 areas and will let you know how they are. Quote
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