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Wallstein

New routes on Icicle Creek Buttress

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I did some climbing on the lower part of Icicle creek buttress this last week and noticed some new sporto routes just to the left of the arch route. Does anybody know who put these up and if they have even tried to toprope them. By the looks of it they put the bolts in before they were even attempted on toprope. One of the routes has 5 or 6 bolts and then ends in a short thin overhanging crack filled with thick moss. It doesn't look like the moss has even been touched. Seems a little odd to me. Then there was another route way to the right, like 75 yards. It started with a short finger crack and then ended on a long slab. Weirdest thing though, there are bolts next to the crack. I couldn't understand why so I put a couple pieces on my harness and lead the route. After doing the crack with good pro i still didn't see the need for the bolts. Placing pro probably made it a wee bit harder but still do able. Anybody have any info on these routes?

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quote:

Originally posted by Wallstein:

I did some climbing on the lower part of Icicle creek buttress this last week and noticed some new sporto routes just to the left of the arch route. Does anybody know who put these up and if they have even tried to toprope them. By the looks of it they put the bolts in before they were even attempted on toprope. One of the routes has 5 or 6 bolts and then ends in a short thin overhanging crack filled with thick moss. It doesn't look like the moss has even been touched. Seems a little odd to me. Then there was another route way to the right, like 75 yards. It started with a short finger crack and then ended on a long slab. Weirdest thing though, there are bolts next to the crack. I couldn't understand why so I put a couple pieces on my harness and lead the route. After doing the crack with good pro i still didn't see the need for the bolts. Placing pro probably made it a wee bit harder but still do able. Anybody have any info on these routes?

Choppity chop chop? Where is Retrosaurus and Strickland and the 3 foot long love?

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I would be really suprised to hear anyone has climbed them. There was so much moss that i couldn't even see the crack. Danimal should of taken the the little red piece of webbing of of the first bolt.

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Yeah I am just talking rumors. Ask Dan for details. Pretty sure he did not bolt them. they were on them last fall...

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Ain't nothin like a bolted crack! I love it when I don't have to bring gear and get to clip the bolts. I don't like pulling on cams and nuts as much as pulling on draws!

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quote:

Originally posted by roger johnson:

Ditto Dru: "chop chop".

Yeah I heard therea are 2 routes like this at least. I am speculating due to hearsay though. Chop is not as good as crowbar though [Wink] Crowbar is a good workout! [chubit]

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I tried to post a poll. I can't. I don't know why. Anyway, my poll question was: Is there anybody out there among the 2000 people registered here that think bolting an easily protectable crack is actually a good idea? I don't get it. Please explain. [Wazzup]

 

The Arch is a fun climb. Recommended to me by an old eight-fingered character in Leavenworth.

 

[ 04-15-2002, 08:30 PM: Message edited by: Uncle Tricky ]

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quote:

Originally posted by Wallstein:

Then there was another route way to the right, like 75 yards. It started with a short finger crack and then ended on a long slab. Weirdest thing though, there are bolts next to the crack.

gordon b.'s "handiwork". ya gotta love the man but the bolts next to the crack couldn't have been his proudest moment.

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quote:

Originally posted by Dru:

quote:

Originally posted by Wallstein:

... Weirdest thing though, there are bolts next to the crack. ... After doing the crack with good pro i still didn't see the need for the bolts. ... Anybody have any info on these routes?

Choppity chop chop? Where is Retrosaurus and Strickland and the 3 foot long love?

That's all the info I need.

BTW the 3foot long love has been upgraded to 5 1/2 feet. [big Grin]

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quote:

Originally posted by Wallstein:

Then there was another route way to the right, like 75 yards. It started with a short finger crack and then ended on a long slab. Weirdest thing though, there are bolts next to the crack. I couldn't understand why so I put a couple pieces on my harness and lead the route. After doing the crack with good pro i still didn't see the need for the bolts. Placing pro probably made it a wee bit harder but still do able. Anybody have any info on these routes?

I climbed that route last summer. Stumbled on to it while rapping down after climbing the Arch. I think the bolts are pretty lame-o.

 

Time for some road side clean up.

 

[ 04-15-2002, 11:37 PM: Message edited by: Matt ]

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The stuff on the left are "projects" that no one has been able to do, as far as I know. Been there for years.

The bolted crack in question was bolted due to the friable nature of the crack. It's different kind of rock and a touch unstable. Tap it with a hammer and see. Sure it takes gear, but I don't think you want to whip on it. Put your aiders on it and jump on your gear. They are not necessarily

"chicken" bolts but were meant to keep the rock from busting apart in the event of a fall.

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quote:

Originally posted by viktor:

The stuff on the left are "projects" that no one has been able to do, as far as I know. Been there for years.

The bolted crack in question was bolted due to the friable nature of the crack. It's different kind of rock and a touch unstable. Tap it with a hammer and see. Sure it takes gear, but I don't think you want to whip on it. Put your aiders on it and jump on your gear. They are not necessarily

"chicken" bolts but were meant to keep the rock from busting apart in the event of a fall.

viktor, is that not when better judgement should come into play....and you say "jeez this rock sucks and i am afraid to fall and hurt myself, especially since the rock appears friable. maybe i will leave this for someone who does not need bolts to climb it. or maybe we dont need to climb every piece of rock in the icicle....."

 

again another selfish act.............

 

why again are we reauired to climb every piece of rock????

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maybe a little wirebrush action would have removed the fraible rock and left the good stuff/ and eradicated the nasty moss too? ( i hope Doug Larson doesn't read that [Wink] )

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What is all the fuss over bolting a crack? If there was a route 4 pitches tall and you could protect 3 or 4 sections with gear the pioneer would have to be sure to get it into the guide book what pieces to bring or the climber would have to bring a full rack to be sure he was protected. I know ethics call for the question:

 

Scar the crack or put in a bolt?

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Thanks for the info victor. Yes the rock might of been a little friable but I didn't think the protection was that questionable, maybe its due to my aid climbing background though. I could of gotten a piece in every foot or so if I had wanted to. The blocks in the crack seemed a little weird but the nature of the placements wouldn't of been pulling the blocks out, I used almost all cams which I don't believe would of caused any rock to come out. If I had used a bunch of nuts maybe there was a chance a piece of rock might of blow out. Anyhow I think the route can be safely done without the bolts and probably not safe depending on the skill of the leader.

 

Safety is all relative.

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Sounds like without the bolts you must accept the risks inherent in climing but with them it may be reduced to the risks inherent in tennis.

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quote:

Originally posted by Crackbolter:

What is all the fuss over bolting a crack? If there was a route 4 pitches tall and you could protect 3 or 4 sections with gear the pioneer would have to be sure to get it into the guide book what pieces to bring or the climber would have to bring a full rack to be sure he was protected. I know ethics call for the question:

 

Scar the crack or put in a bolt?

The first time I lead Newest Industry at Index, I took a bunch of draws, according to my interpretation of the guide. On the upper section, I found that there was a bit of a runout past good gear placements. Having no gear, I did the prudent thing and downclimbed to the last bolt and then lowered off. I would rather have done that, and then what I did the next time I lead it(which was bring the gear I needed) than to have found bolts next to good gear placements.

 

Moral of the story: Don't rely on guidebooks to supply you with protection requirements.

 

and

 

IMHO, it isn't neccesary to put bolts next to good gear placements.

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Im with ya Spacehead! Gimme that damn drill! I'll show you how to turn that 5.11 crack into a 5.9 sport route in a jiffy. No need to sit there gripped rattling off the route if you can clip and yard on draws! Lets go bolt something~

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