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girlclimber

BD ice screws

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can someone tell me what the difference is between BD's "Express" and "Turbo" ice screws? i can see that the Express has some weird little knob but fail to see the significance of it.

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That little knob is a handle that turns. So once the screw is started you just hold the knob and crank it around, screwing it in without having to re-grip.

 

Rich

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it has been dipped in some holy hot spring at banff by will gadd. it comes with a certificate.

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I read that bd changed their manufacturing process for the turbo. The machining of the ice screw is apparently puter controlled, more accurate, making a more precise ice screw that is easier to drill into ice.

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"Express" and "Turbo" are two different features on the BD ice screws.

 

The "Express" is the coffee-grinder knob that folds down on the handle. Beginning ice climbers, including myself so many years ago, are always skeptical about the usefulness of both the coffee-grinder (CG) handle and the fact that it folds flat. Once I started leading, it did not take long before I saw the light and got rid of al my screws without the CG because it was 100x easier to place the screw with it, especially with one hand. The fact that it folds down just makes the whole unit cleaner on your rack. I still have and use half a dozen non-bd screws that have non-folding CGs, and they tend to get stuck on one another on the rack. In short, spend the extra $5 on a CG handle, no matter what screws you get, you'll thank yourself later I promise.

 

The "turbo" refers to the change in manufacturing these screws underwent a few years ago. BD screws have always been CNC machined cro-moly with a nickel plating, the "turbo" screws are simply a redesigned geometry that supposedly allows the screw to cut faster due to the core being more conical or something like that. Who knows. I have a bunch of both styles (old and "turbo") and I can't tell much difference. Both are WAYYY faster than any other brand of screw I've ever owned though. What does this mean for you? It means that "non" turbo screws are on sale to get rid of old inventory! Stock up while they are cheap. Don't skimp on the CG though or it will come back to haunt you.

 

Thus endeth the lesson for today

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the new charlet screws with the bolt-hanger knob look pretty cool

 

anybody try one yet?

 

the grivel 360 is also pretty cool but its a bitch to rack. however its one of the few screws you can put in an ice filled corner crack.

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The "turbo" refers to the change in manufacturing these screws underwent a few years ago.

I believe that when BD changed their manufacturing process, they sold their old factory to Smiley (now owned by Omega Pacific). Smiley screws were identical to the older BD screws, but were much cheaper, making them excellent value. I'm not sure if they're still using the same production line now though.

 

Omega also sells a "coffee grinder" type attachment that you can retro-fit onto most screws. They don't fold down, but I haven't found that to be a big issue since I only put them on a few screws for "urgent" placements.

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Additional props on Omega's CG attachment, I've retrofitted some ancient CAMP screws, a few unidentified ones, and with a small amount of grinding/filing, they will also fit the non-express BD screws. I'd suggest a dab of the red loctite on the nut, I lost one the first time I used them, but the handle still stayed put without it.

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Placed a bunch of these Grivel screws recently and really liked how easily they drill into the ice. One negitive about them is that the handle does not rack as well as other screws.

650608.jpg

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thanks for the info, guys thumbs_up.gif

 

i got a couple Express ice screws for christmas and you've convinced me that screws with CG handles are the only way to go

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screws with cranks are good but you can save $$$ by buying a couple of non-cranks (about 20-30$ cheaper a screw) and using those screws for belays and suchlike where speed placement is not so necessary.

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