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Doctorb said:

I'm curious about the climbing conditions over the 12/13-12/14 weekend.

 

Marble canyon was a little fatter this weekend but basically the same as the pictures I posted last week. The tube is in, but a little thin at the top, loose lady is in with the approach ice being wet and the top pitches with huge mushrooms and poorish pro (didn't do the top out due to darkness and wimpiness). Synchro looked a little fatter and probably doable but we decided against it. I heard - though did not check it out myself - that cherry ice was in. Honeyman is running water down the middle. I don't know anything about bridge river.

Posted

The mushrooms on Loose Lady were amazing. Anyone know what causes these to form and how/if it affects the stability of the frozen waterfall?

 

For the Tube, bring flippers and a snorkel in addition to standard ice gear. The top out involves little to no ice, slabs and flowing water. It should form nicely as the temps get colder.

 

Synchro, from the road, looked to be in early season conditions. We decided to wait until it gets a bit phatter.

 

- T

Posted
Anyone up there this weekend?

 

ChrisS and I didn't see a single other climber the entire weekend except for a dude who showed up by himself an hour before dark at marble on Saturday.

 

All the climbs that we did were relativley well formed. Perhaps some of the more recent reports on the Lillooet conditions were to keep the crowds away as temps have if anything been the same or warmer for the last few weeks?

_________

On Sunday the last climb of the day for us was a 1 pitch route about 10 minutes off the road on the Duffey Lake Road. It was east of Carl's Berg but west of Loose Lady. It was on the same side of the highway as loose lady. The route had a funky stump hanging out of rock cliff with a red sling near the top. The route was clearly visible from the road and mostly vertical. We saw indications of traffic from the day before. Anybody know what the nameof the route is? Or its history? (Not in the guide or on the web site) It was a lot of fun.

 

 

Posted
That is "The Tube" Jens...short WI5...some may argure 4. What else did you guys do? Anyone drive into the Bridge River?

 

WI5???? are you on drugs? that was originally rated WI3 and then crept up to 3+ before settling in at easy 4. wave.gif

Posted
That is "The Tube" Jens...short WI5...some may argure 4. What else did you guys do? Anyone drive into the Bridge River?

 

WI5???? are you on drugs? that was originally rated WI3 and then crept up to 3+ before settling in at easy 4. wave.gif

 

"The Tube" is just too short to be rated any higher than WI4- (if that). Fun route with easy access!

Posted

Was up the 14th and 15th. Ice looked to be coming in very well but weather was warming up. Sunday we climbed the Tube which was fine but a little wet and thin on top. Afterwards we went to climb Loose Lady where a couple of cars were parked so we bailed and checked out Bridge River Canyon. The Canyon routes were were close if not in, Night'n Gale looked pretty fat. Monday we had planned to climb Synchro but with the weather warmin up we climbed Salmon Steaks instead which was a fun and easy. There was very little snow in the Canyon and Lilloet in general.

Posted

the silk degrees/silkworm/salmon stakes crossing is crying out for a tyrolean. who's got a 40m rope they wanna donate? i will supply some bolt anchors for the thing if there aren't any trees to use thumbs_up.gif

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