kurthicks Posted December 9, 2003 Posted December 9, 2003 This might prove to be a futile search, but why not try? I've only done 3 of these, so all the information comes from CC.com and online hearsay. Submit any/all corrections and additions... ---------------------------------------------------------- Wallowas Hurricane Creek Drainage Note: All climbs mentioned here have huge avalanche danger Falls Creek Falls Elevation: 5,000’ Grade: WI3-5? M 4/5? Length: ~50 ft Approach: about 3/8ths of a mile from the Hurricane Creek trailhead. Follow the sign on a tree that says “Fall Creek Falls.” Couldn’t be more obvious. Alternately, continue on the main trail until you reach the creek and walk up the drainage. Time ~ 10 minutes Unnamed Falls Elevation: About 5,200’ Length: ~35’ Approach: Across the canyon from Falls Creek and up the hill. Slick Rock Canyon Falls Elevation: 5,760’ Grade: WI2 for the first steps, above unknown Length: 2 small steps (15’ each) with what looked like a longer pitch above Approach: about 3 miles from Hurricane Creek trailhead, about 150m from 2nd switchback) Time ~ 1-1.5 hours Wallowa Lake Climbs BC Creek Falls Elevation: About 5,600’ Grade: WI2-3 Length: ? Approach: From the Wallowa Lake TH, take the West Fork Wallowa River trail. At the Chief Joseph Mtn. Junction (0.3 miles), turn right. Follow the trail for 1.2 miles to the falls. Time ~ 30 minutes Boy Scout Falls Elevation: ? Grade: ? Length:? Approach: ? ---------------------------- Central & Eastern Oregon Three Fingered Jack SE Couloir Grade: 45-65 degrees (from Oregon High) Length: 800’ Season: Jan-March. Usually, by the time the trailhead melts out, the route is out of shape. Approach: From the Jack Lake TH, follow the trail to Canyon Creek Meadow. TFJ is obvious. Middle Sister Ice Hose / NE Face Direct Grade: WI 4+ Length: 2 pitches. The rest of the route was 55-60 deg neve to the top. Approach: just to the left of the NE Face route as shown in Oregon High. Paulina Falls Elevation: 6,200’ Grade: WI4-5 ? Length: 100’ Approach: From US 97, drive 6 miles north of La Pine and turn east onto Paulina Lake Rd. Drive 10 miles to the unmarked parking lot. Hike along an old jeep road at the end of the lot. After 0.4 miles, turn left (west) and hike for another .6 miles. Strawberry Lakes The Strawberry Range has excellent ice opportunities. They are spring fed and form every year. Season: ice begins forming in late October at the high elevations and is usually filled in by Christmas. Snow melt throughout the season can form twice the number of climbs but is usually ephemeral at best, thus hard to predict Strawberry Falls Grade: half a dozen routes up to ninety feet mostly pure some mixed. (wood finishes on a few!) Length: 90’ Approach: about 3 miles over pretty moderate terrain. The big issue would be getting your car to the trail head Little Provo Grade: WI4-5 Length: 1 long pitch Approach: the west of the lower lake Honey Pot Elevation: ? Grade: ? Length: ? Approach: East of the upper lake amongst the island of trees The After Image FA: Feb. 1996, who? Elevation: ? Grade: V, WI5+ Length: 120m Approach: drive as far as the county plows, usually to the timber just below McNaughton spring. The After Image is obvious above and south of strawberry lake. Note: “This grade v wi5+ is a serious alpine endeavor. It consists of 120 meters of steep ice in the middle of a 420 meter alpine north face. The overall grade depends on timing. Later in the season when the cave pillar touches down, it’s a bitch to approach, often bad depth hoar. Early season it can be a cruise to get to it but, the overhanging climbing pumps the technical grade.” Camp at the trail head campground or find a bivvy at house rock adjacent little strawberry lake. The crux pillar on “after image” usually does not touch down until the upper sixty meters fills out. This route is best done late in the season. ----------------------------- PDX Area and Gorge Climbs: Ainsworth State Park Grade: WI 4-5 ? Length: 700’ Approach: take I-84 east from Portland to Exit 28 (Bridal Veil), and follow highway 125 for about six miles past Multnomah Falls and Ainsworth State Park entrance. Crown Jewel Elevation: ? Grade: ? Length: ? Approach: ? Sheppard's Dell Elevation: ? Grade: ? Length: ? Approach: ? Mt. Hood Eliot Glacier Moraine Season: October-May Approach: From the Tilly Jane Campground, hike up the Timberline Trail for a mile. Holly Falls Elevation: ? Grade: ? Length: ? Approach: ? Illumination Rock “March Madness” Grade: ? Length: ? Approach: Walk uphill from Timberline Lodge. Ski Bowl Grade: ? Length: ? Approach: to the right of the main ski run at Ski bowl Pete’s Pile Elevation: ~3500’ Grade: WI4+ and up. Most are TR able with bolts at top. Length: Mostly 1 pitch, some 2 pitch Season: They will form when the Gorge does, and stick around a little longer. Approach: a steep 10 minute hike from pull off on Hwy35 to main crag. They are visible from the road. Note: Find a copy of "Portland Rock Climbs" by Tim Olsen ----------------------- Salt Creek Falls Area Anyone know more about it? ---------------------------------------- I can't find my copy of Washington Ice right now, so someone add the info for the gorge climbs if they get the chance. Post away.... Quote
rbw1966 Posted December 9, 2003 Posted December 9, 2003 Ski Bowl Grade: WI2-4 some easy mixed terrain. Length: 30-50' Approach: to the right of the main ski run at Ski bowl ~15 minutes Gorge climbs are also mentioned in the Portland Rock Guide as well. I'm curious if there is Lambone got any answer to his question re ice around Crater Lake? Quote
cj001f Posted December 9, 2003 Posted December 9, 2003 The Washington Side of The Gorge: Cape Horn Area 25 miles from I5 on SR14, described Left to Right Hanging Curtain WI3+ 80fft Dodge City WI3 80ft The Pillar WI3+ 80ft Phantom Gully WI3 300ft Silver Streak WI3+ 300ft Salmon Run WI4+ 300ft Hamilton Mtn (NE of beacon, off of FR4270) The Strand Grade IV-V, WI5+/6 Oregon side of the gorge is in PDX Rock, which I don't have here at work. Quote
ryland_moore Posted December 10, 2003 Posted December 10, 2003 Salt Creek Falls Area Anyone know more about it? I assume you are speaking of the Salt Creek Falls up Hwy 58 towards Willamette Pass? I know two people who have climbed Salt Creek Falls back in early 90's. The owner of the Crux Rock Gym in Eugene being one of them. He said it went at WI4/5 but was so unconsolidated that they could hear the whole thing creeking behind the ice and it was so thin that the leader didn't put in any protection for the last 60 feet of the climb. Said it was the scariest thing he's ever done. That said, it would have to get cold for a while to make that place freeze over. I check it every year and it never comes close for the 4 years I've been out here. Maybe one day! Quote
Lambone Posted December 10, 2003 Posted December 10, 2003 If any of you guys wan't to hit the Wallowas some weekend, let me know...I'll drive up and meet ya Quote
kurthicks Posted December 10, 2003 Author Posted December 10, 2003 Ryland...i'm guessing that's the place. i haven't heard any details, so you've got the most so far. see if you can get some more specifics...like length? Lambone - I'll probably go hit some Wallowa ice with TG in January when i get back to school. there's not a lot there right now. hey, want to make this post sticky? (why does that sound gross?) I think i'll probably be exporing the Central Oregon area for about 10 days this winter if anyone wants go join me. i know of some FAs to be had...if you're willing to ski for a while. keep the climbs coming Quote
rbw1966 Posted December 10, 2003 Posted December 10, 2003 I plan to head up to the Wallowas a couple times this season. Quote
Billy Posted December 13, 2003 Posted December 13, 2003 There are also some climbs on the West side of Willamette pass, unfortunately facing south on a high cliff band. Need very cold air. Quote
vert Posted December 13, 2003 Posted December 13, 2003 I did the after image, it is at 7600-8000'. Like it will ever happen again, if the gorge freezes, Alex Brown and I did the massive curtain above cascade locks within that towns watershed. Sustained wi 4 for three full ropes. Also did two routes with steve house, one above ainsworth, hard and long, the other at cape horn, not so hard. Locally, check out lostine canyon, 12 routes or so, one 400' high, with a 95 degree crux when formed. I have seen it in for 14 days and climbed it twice in a hurry before it fell down. These climbs are easy to get to any time. they are at about 5000' so it takes a good freeze. Quote
kurthicks Posted December 22, 2003 Author Posted December 22, 2003 i skied into the Sisters today looking for some ice. lots of running water below 5500'. there was ice forming along some of the falls though. Hopefully this incoming cold spell will help conditions. anyone want to go to the Strawberries tuesday-wednesday? Quote
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