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rbw1966 said:

Billygoat said:

snaf.gif Lover

 

 

Allright! Who here has purple prose languishing in Muffy's PM pile? Fess up...

 

If your prose is purple you need to loosen that grip, superhero. You're not literally supposed to choke that chicken.

yelrotflmao.gifyelrotflmao.gifyelrotflmao.gif NOW THAT is funny wink.gif
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Distel32 said:

 

I did that problem, and I don't know what all the hype is. Nothing that spectacular.

 

I enjoyed it, lots of variety in the beginning, then hang on for the ride through the traverse after the heel-foot match in that dish.

 

All the hype was, when the first Joes' guide came out it was rated V8 for the regular finish, V6 for the cheat up the corner finish, and V10 for the traverse. WAAAYYY overrated. I did the traverse (when that pic was taken actually, back in '98) and the traverse might be close to 8, the regular problem might be 6, and the cheat up the corner is maybe 4. That was the hype, suddenly everyone was climbing "V8". Although it's been what five years ago, so my memory might not be spot-on. Ahh, Joes...where you could float the 5's and get crushed by the 4's, cruise the 8's and get smacked down by the 6's. I think the problem that took me the longest there was only V2! I loved that place.

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Yeah Will Joe's is dope!!!

 

The thing about the traverse is that it is an eliminate.....and I am not so much a fan of those. I think in my utah bouldering guide they call the problem 4, and traverse 6. I did the non-eliminate traverse, which is stiff 4 imho.

 

You want classic?? Super sloper! Pocket Rocket! Moby Dick!

 

And the project for this march: No Substance

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I dont boulder much anymore. There is a fun problem on the rafters of my garage. I rate it V2 since I did a V4 once. But I have not finished it yet. I try about every 6 months. The landing is on concrete flats so ok.

 

My dog hasn't tried it yet but he is eyeballing all the moves every time like he is ready. Maybe he has made a secret ascent and is waiting until I climb it so he can then try it "first try" hahaha.gif

 

 

If I ever climb it my rating will be V420! wazzup.gif

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Distel32 said:

I think in my utah bouldering guide they call the problem 4, and traverse 6. I did the non-eliminate traverse, which is stiff 4 imho.

 

You want classic?? Super sloper! Pocket Rocket! Moby Dick!

 

Sounds reasonable to me. Pocket Rocket is a pretty rough dyno if you're my height. Moby Dick was cool, Scary Monsters was way cool..DFU. I saw a guy take that fall too. Big Joe and Smokin' Joe, yeah! That slab problem Feels Like Grit, damn that things hard. Almost broke my leg on the problem Caveman climbing it with the crack all iced up, thinkin I would hike it 'cause I'd hiked it before, hand shot out of the crack with my foot cammed up in there. Spotters caught me and were holding me completely off the ground dangling by my ankle. Tore up my shoulder and a finger climbing Snake Mouth (yeah, I know...WHY?) when I broke a foothold and all weight came completely onto two right fingers in a dish. Finally figured out and did Monkey Lip. Somehow flashed Reading Rainbow over near the "jeans" probs. SOOOO much rock for new probs, rad ice climbing in the winter in the L fork. Joes was cool and Utah was cool, but the beer sucks and cops suck. Lucky for me, I knew and worked with the Sheriff in my county, and only 300 people in my town. rockband.gif

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Man I wish I could live there, if only for a month. Don't get me wrong, Bishop and squamish is cool, but sometimes you need a break from granite.

 

Have you been to Triassic???? I've seen so many amazing pics from STFU (Sam Tingie or something like that) FAs everywhere, and all the established problems look uber classic, plus it is more concentrated than Joe's

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