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Posted

For Alpine climbs in winter, wart-hogs work in frozen dirty, mossy cracks. I carry a baby angle, a kb, 2 tricams red and purple) and one of those russian ice screws on my harness regardless if I'm leading or following. I figure one of them will work in an emergency.

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I've owned a number of different Ti rock pins. I've been real happy witht the strength and durability of all of them. Since I'm not using them for big wall nail ups, mine probably don't get hammered on that much. From the hammering I have done with mine alpine climbing, I'm impressed with their toughness.

Posted
David_Parker said:

For Alpine climbs in winter, wart-hogs work in frozen dirty, mossy cracks. I carry a baby angle, a kb, 2 tricams red and purple) and one of those russian ice screws on my harness regardless if I'm leading or following. I figure one of them will work in an emergency.

Ade mentioned wart-hogs once. Please explain what they are. Also, am I correct in assuming that the Russian screws are for bailing or for screwing into ice filled cracks (which will ruin the screw), when all else fails?
Posted
catbirdseat said:

Ade mentioned wart-hogs once. Please explain what they are. Also, am I correct in assuming that the Russian screws are for bailing or for screwing into ice filled cracks (which will ruin the screw), when all else fails?

 

first hit on google:

mtechwarthog.gif

Posted
rbw1966 said:

In addition to Cavey's initial suggestion I add a spectre to a winter alpine rack.

Have you ever placed it? I used to carry one - thought it'd be useful in the frozen moss of the east. Heard that don't hold much of a fall at all.

Posted

I've been told that Spectres are useful for getting in something quick to provide temporary protection while something better is being put in.

 

I found this site about winter climbing in the UK . The "ice hooks" they refer to are the same as Spectres I take it.

Posted

I hooked a spectre over a flake once and ran it out 60 feet on mixed ground

 

my sphincter nearly failed but the spectre stayed hooked on the flake even though the line traversed a fair bit to gain verglas.

 

i think spectres are cool but the DMM ice hook is way better, for one thing it weighs half as much!

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