jstreet Posted December 4, 2003 Posted December 4, 2003 $32 Brand new, used once during practice placements Quote
sobo Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 Hah! You've got a FURPS! Fucking Russian Piece of Shit! Save it for when you have to bail off a climb. That's why they're called "leavers". And you can get 'em for about $10 used on eBay. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 sobo said: Hah! You've got a FURPS! Fucking Russian Piece of Shit! Save it for when you have to bail off a climb. That's why they're called "leavers". And you can get 'em for about $10 used on eBay. I believe you are mistaking this ice screw for older versions made in the past that are not UIAA approved. EBAY DOES NOT HAVE THIS PITON TODAY Also I do want to note that I think titanium ice screws are acceptible in alpine shite or low angle shite. I just dont like the ones that come with that stupid handle. It's useless. thanks Quote
sobo Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 Cpt.Caveman said: sobo said: Hah! You've got a FURPS! Fucking Russian Piece of Shit! Save it for when you have to bail off a climb. That's why they're called "leavers". And you can get 'em for about $10 used on eBay. I believe you are mistaking this ice screw for older versions made in the past that are not UIAA approved. Possibly. And you're right. None are currently available on eBay, but they show up pretty regularly this time of year. Cpt.Caveman said: Also I do want to note that I think titanium ice screws are acceptible in alpine shite or low angle shite. I just dont like the ones that come with that stupid handle. It's useless. thanks Agreed on both counts, but I was proceeding from the assumption that jstreet was thinking of selling it off as *ice* climbing equipment, rather than *climbing* equipment. My bad. FWIW, I would never want to take a clean-air leader fall on a Ti ice screw. Shit, I'd never want to take a clean-air leader fall on any ice screw! Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 This screw is UIAA approved. I'm just dispelling any uninformed folks and implications you are making. Link to Ushba Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 http://www.bdel.com/gear/alpinism/ice_pro.php You might notice that the TI ice screw is 15 KN as the BDEL is what 10? http://www.ushba.com/catalog/ice.html#ultimate The reason I dont prefer to use them on waterfalls is that the metal is not as good as steel screws I use when drilling into the ice. It has more friction. Quote
Dru Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 yeah if you coat the Ti screw in WD40 you can place it once. the friction in cold ice is unbelievably bad, they tend to get about 2" of ice plug in them and then lock up with the ice in the barrel not moving save them for belay screws if you place more express than you thought you would on a pitch. or in the alpine where softer neve-source type ice lets them sink in smoother. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 I agree dru and I already pretty much noted this part -or in the alpine where softer neve-source type ice lets them sink in smoother. Quote
sobo Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 Caveman, I visited the sites you ref'ed. Thanks for the clarifications. Things really seemed to have changed surrounding Ti screws recently. Perhaps I may have been thinking of the ibrus Russian Ti ice screw as the lesser screw. I don't believe that they are certified by any climbing governing agency. And google didn't find them, either. Are you familiar with the ibrus brand? Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 Yes Sobo those are the shit ones I was thinking you might have been mistaken with. Quote
sobo Posted December 5, 2003 Posted December 5, 2003 Right, got it. Sorry, ya'll, for any negative implications that I may have put forth regarding the ushba screws. I stand corrected. Quote
jaee Posted December 9, 2003 Posted December 9, 2003 Those Irbus (sp?) screws used to sell at REI for like $12.95. I picked up a few. Then I saw a bunch of negative comments about them. So I called REI. A few calls later they fax me a report of some pull testing they did with those screws. 5 screws, each pulled between 2200 and 2800 lbf. So, I felt a little better about dragging them along as leavers, since they'd actually do the job if they had to. Quote
sobo Posted December 9, 2003 Posted December 9, 2003 I still have a couple of the ibrus screws left on my rack, but I only use them as leavers. FURPS! Quote
Dru Posted December 15, 2003 Posted December 15, 2003 Those Irbis screws are nice in the alpine. Why leave a screw when you can leave an Abalakov? Quote
catbirdseat Posted December 15, 2003 Posted December 15, 2003 The Irbis go into glacial ice just fine. Quote
sobo Posted December 15, 2003 Posted December 15, 2003 Dru said: Those Irbis screws are nice in the alpine. Why leave a screw when you can leave an Abalakov? Because by the time I'm at the point of placing a leaver, my hands are frozen, I don't wanna futz around lining up holes and tie knots, and I have fully entered the bail-out mode. Oh, and I'm probably pretty gripped by then, and all I really want is Quote
Dru Posted December 16, 2003 Posted December 16, 2003 Ya. as for me I'm too cheap and my life is worth so little I will never leave a screw and bail in 5 minutes if I can leave an Abalakov and bail in an hour Quote
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