jstreet Posted December 4, 2003 Share Posted December 4, 2003 $32 Brand new, used once during practice placements Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 Hah! You've got a FURPS! Fucking Russian Piece of Shit! Save it for when you have to bail off a climb. That's why they're called "leavers". And you can get 'em for about $10 used on eBay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 sobo said: Hah! You've got a FURPS! Fucking Russian Piece of Shit! Save it for when you have to bail off a climb. That's why they're called "leavers". And you can get 'em for about $10 used on eBay. I believe you are mistaking this ice screw for older versions made in the past that are not UIAA approved. EBAY DOES NOT HAVE THIS PITON TODAY Also I do want to note that I think titanium ice screws are acceptible in alpine shite or low angle shite. I just dont like the ones that come with that stupid handle. It's useless. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 Cpt.Caveman said: sobo said: Hah! You've got a FURPS! Fucking Russian Piece of Shit! Save it for when you have to bail off a climb. That's why they're called "leavers". And you can get 'em for about $10 used on eBay. I believe you are mistaking this ice screw for older versions made in the past that are not UIAA approved. Possibly. And you're right. None are currently available on eBay, but they show up pretty regularly this time of year. Cpt.Caveman said: Also I do want to note that I think titanium ice screws are acceptible in alpine shite or low angle shite. I just dont like the ones that come with that stupid handle. It's useless. thanks Agreed on both counts, but I was proceeding from the assumption that jstreet was thinking of selling it off as *ice* climbing equipment, rather than *climbing* equipment. My bad. FWIW, I would never want to take a clean-air leader fall on a Ti ice screw. Shit, I'd never want to take a clean-air leader fall on any ice screw! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 This screw is UIAA approved. I'm just dispelling any uninformed folks and implications you are making. Link to Ushba Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 http://www.bdel.com/gear/alpinism/ice_pro.php You might notice that the TI ice screw is 15 KN as the BDEL is what 10? http://www.ushba.com/catalog/ice.html#ultimate The reason I dont prefer to use them on waterfalls is that the metal is not as good as steel screws I use when drilling into the ice. It has more friction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 yeah if you coat the Ti screw in WD40 you can place it once. the friction in cold ice is unbelievably bad, they tend to get about 2" of ice plug in them and then lock up with the ice in the barrel not moving save them for belay screws if you place more express than you thought you would on a pitch. or in the alpine where softer neve-source type ice lets them sink in smoother. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 I agree dru and I already pretty much noted this part -or in the alpine where softer neve-source type ice lets them sink in smoother. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 Caveman, I visited the sites you ref'ed. Thanks for the clarifications. Things really seemed to have changed surrounding Ti screws recently. Perhaps I may have been thinking of the ibrus Russian Ti ice screw as the lesser screw. I don't believe that they are certified by any climbing governing agency. And google didn't find them, either. Are you familiar with the ibrus brand? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 Yes Sobo those are the shit ones I was thinking you might have been mistaken with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted December 5, 2003 Share Posted December 5, 2003 Right, got it. Sorry, ya'll, for any negative implications that I may have put forth regarding the ushba screws. I stand corrected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaee Posted December 9, 2003 Share Posted December 9, 2003 Those Irbus (sp?) screws used to sell at REI for like $12.95. I picked up a few. Then I saw a bunch of negative comments about them. So I called REI. A few calls later they fax me a report of some pull testing they did with those screws. 5 screws, each pulled between 2200 and 2800 lbf. So, I felt a little better about dragging them along as leavers, since they'd actually do the job if they had to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted December 9, 2003 Share Posted December 9, 2003 I still have a couple of the ibrus screws left on my rack, but I only use them as leavers. FURPS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 15, 2003 Share Posted December 15, 2003 Those Irbis screws are nice in the alpine. Why leave a screw when you can leave an Abalakov? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted December 15, 2003 Share Posted December 15, 2003 The Irbis go into glacial ice just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted December 15, 2003 Share Posted December 15, 2003 REI - Irbis Screw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted December 15, 2003 Share Posted December 15, 2003 Dru said: Those Irbis screws are nice in the alpine. Why leave a screw when you can leave an Abalakov? Because by the time I'm at the point of placing a leaver, my hands are frozen, I don't wanna futz around lining up holes and tie knots, and I have fully entered the bail-out mode. Oh, and I'm probably pretty gripped by then, and all I really want is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 16, 2003 Share Posted December 16, 2003 Ya. as for me I'm too cheap and my life is worth so little I will never leave a screw and bail in 5 minutes if I can leave an Abalakov and bail in an hour Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted December 16, 2003 Share Posted December 16, 2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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