layton Posted December 2, 2003 Posted December 2, 2003 The west face of sloan in winter. someone posted a photo of seriously sweet ice one it in the Freshie Zone but I couldn't find it. Someone wanna find and post that here? Quote
Dru Posted December 2, 2003 Posted December 2, 2003 what, you aren't allowed out of the pdx negative zone? Quote
layton Posted December 2, 2003 Author Posted December 2, 2003 i'm friggin busy w/finals and headin' back to Banff. I'll get after that one if I think it's in, if that's the one I feel like doing, if I have the time, I have a partner, and the weather cooperates. someone else can grab it in the meanwhile, i don't care. there's too many winter plums to pick in this lifetime. Quote
layton Posted December 2, 2003 Author Posted December 2, 2003 HERE I forgot how sweet this route(s) would be. shit, gimme a call if yous guys are goin'. Quote
Dru Posted December 2, 2003 Posted December 2, 2003 i am gonna wait for the 4 feet of pow with no base to settle-down a bit before i try more winter alpinism. and then im gonna get in a boat and go for a little motor Quote
mattp Posted December 2, 2003 Posted December 2, 2003 You you-know-what's. I was hesitant to post anything about Sloan at all last year, because it was the W. Face I was actually interested in and I feared attention may not be a good thing for my selfish ambitions. But I posted a trip report anyway, and PF went up there and he didn't know any better. Now the one and only cool climb left in the State is public knowledge (not really, but I hope you'll at least have the decency to invite me along when you go up there to try and snag it -- and I hope that isn't before about February when it may actually come into shape). Quote
JayB Posted December 2, 2003 Posted December 2, 2003 I think that there have been a few folks keeping that aspect in mind since those photos were posted last year Matt. Hopefully Layton's goading will persuade someone to get up there and hit it. Wasn't there some mention of a washout that would cut off Sloan's would be ascenscionists a few miles short of the trailhead? That alone might keep all but the most determined away from the mountain this winter if it's true.... Quote
Necronomicon Posted December 2, 2003 Posted December 2, 2003 mattp said: You you-know-what's. I was hesitant to post anything about Sloan at all last year, because it was the W. Face I was actually interested in and I feared attention may not be a good thing for my selfish ambitions. But I posted a trip report anyway, and PF went up there and he didn't know any better. Now the one and only cool climb left in the State is public knowledge (not really, but I hope you'll at least have the decency to invite me along when you go up there to try and snag it -- and I hope that isn't before about February when it may actually come into shape). Your selfish attitude and lust for recognition will keep you out of the running. Quote
Off_White Posted December 2, 2003 Posted December 2, 2003 Necronomicon said: Your selfish attitude and lust for recognition will keep you out of the running. That winning combination seems to have worked for any number of climbers, but that's a nifty designation for mattp, maybe his description should change to "selfish and lusty" Quote
mattp Posted December 2, 2003 Posted December 2, 2003 Necronomicon said: Your selfish attitude and lust for recognition will keep you out of the running. mommy Quote
Crackbolter Posted December 2, 2003 Posted December 2, 2003 But Matt, What about the infamous Squire Creek Wall? Aren't you and Rat going to do stuff there and publish it in Rock and Ice? Quote
Necronomicon Posted December 2, 2003 Posted December 2, 2003 Off_White said: Necronomicon said: Your selfish attitude and lust for recognition will keep you out of the running. That winning combination seems to have worked for any number of climbers, but that's a nifty designation for mattp, maybe his description should change to "selfish and lusty" T-Shirts anyone? Quote
Crackbolter Posted December 2, 2003 Posted December 2, 2003 T-Shirts are pretty cool. I like fridge magnets and mugs though. It would be cool to see a W. Face of Sloan mug or Squie Creek wall keychain. Quote
JoshK Posted December 3, 2003 Posted December 3, 2003 JayB said: I think that there have been a few folks keeping that aspect in mind since those photos were posted last year Matt. Yeah, I think the potential on that aspect of sloan peak is about as far opposite from secret as you can get now. I'm actually really surprised nobody went up and did it last year. I'm also not entirely convinced it hasn't been done before and simply not reported. It seems a pretty obvious face to miss, but who knows... Quote
layton Posted December 3, 2003 Author Posted December 3, 2003 I'm going to BOLT THE SHIT OUT OF IT. Quote
layton Posted December 3, 2003 Author Posted December 3, 2003 I'm going to gridbolt it on lead rappel. Quote
Paco Posted December 3, 2003 Posted December 3, 2003 As much as it sucks to have super-secret projects become much talked about objetives, I'm hoping to see some competition and some ambition among local climbers this winter. It would be really cool if the local climbing scene became active this winter and ticked some real gems. Hopefully the new ice climbing guide will provide some motivation for people to explore the cascades. There are surely some sweet objectives still to be plucked. My big objectives for this winter in the cascades include the West Face of Sloan and the North Face of Triumph. The race is on mutha phukers! Quote
dberdinka Posted December 3, 2003 Posted December 3, 2003 Paco said: I'm hoping to see some competition and some ambition among local climbers this winter..... There are surely some sweet objectives still to be plucked. My big objectives for this ..... The race is on mutha phukers! So in the interests of competition what are these unplucked gems? Sloan NW Face (they'll be linign up) Triump N Face (they'll be lining up-not) Pyramid E Face (can heli's land there?) Slesse Coulior-of-Death (or whatever it's called) New York Gully Headwall Direct (does it go?) More winter ascents in the Pickets (a local climber has evidently be trying the north side of McMillan for years, supposedly a fine line!?) Dru's North Face of Old Settler looks accessible, pretty damn sweet and BIG! Wasn't some dude claiming to attempt a winter solo of Thin Red Line, derivative but bold cough it up With the untimely death of Ben Manfredi will the extreme sking void be filled? Last couple years might one day be seen as a golden age of this genre. What big descents are left? Will someone ski Triple Couliors or the TC-N Face link up? Northeast Coulior of Goode is doable and needs to be done. What else? Anyone ever seen the Beowolf Coulior on Bonanza? Quote
layton Posted December 3, 2003 Author Posted December 3, 2003 The rumors of ice section in WA ice has it pretty covered 'cept for B.C. Yak Peak Most of the Cheam and Chilliwack ranges on into WA. HWY 20 past greybeard Quote
Alex Posted December 3, 2003 Posted December 3, 2003 dberdinka said: New York Gully Headwall Direct (does it go?) If you mean the original aid crack, its been freed at MHard. Alex Quote
dberdinka Posted December 3, 2003 Posted December 3, 2003 Alex said: If you mean the original aid crack, its been freed at MHard. Alex I've never been on the route, in fact I've never seen the route. I mean the big rock headwall that sits above the climb and is skirted on the right. Jim Nelson makes some reference to it as a challenge for future climbers..blah, blah, blah. Am I the only fool around here willing to openly discuss unclimbed lines, projects, etc.? Come on folks cough em up! Quote
Doctorb Posted December 3, 2003 Posted December 3, 2003 dberdinka said: Alex said: If you mean the original aid crack, its been freed at MHard. Alex I've never been on the route, in fact I've never seen the route. I mean the big rock headwall that sits above the climb and is skirted on the right. Jim Nelson makes some reference to it as a challenge for future climbers..blah, blah, blah. Am I the only fool around here willing to openly discuss unclimbed lines, projects, etc.? Come on folks cough em up! Shhhh! Secrets!! Quote
Alex Posted December 3, 2003 Posted December 3, 2003 dberdinka said:Come on folks cough em up! but I already published half my secret projects (yours for only 21.95)! Quote
dberdinka Posted December 3, 2003 Posted December 3, 2003 Alex said: but I already published half my secret projects (yours for only 21.95)! So what's the other half bee-yoch! Quote
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