eternalX Posted November 19, 2003 Posted November 19, 2003 I went to VW yesterday because stone gardens was closed to bouldering and it kicked my ass. I was climbing v1+ and had done a v2s at SG, but when i got to VW i had a hard time on V0+. I did get one V1, but there were a few V0+ I couldn't finish. Are people that much better at VW? Goodbye the little ego i had built up. Quote
Distel32 Posted November 20, 2003 Posted November 20, 2003 Depends on the routes you are climbing at SG. Some setters are good and their problems are harder. Some setters at VW don't know shit and their problems are hard because they are bad. I had oppostie experiences at the comp I climbed in at VW last june. At that time at SG I was climbing all the 5's and some 6's. After the comp I looked at their point to grade sheet and according to them the hardest problems I did (which I flashed) were 6's. gym grades suck, I've climbed more V7's outside than I have in gyms. Quote
RuMR Posted November 20, 2003 Posted November 20, 2003 eternalX said: I went to VW yesterday because stone gardens was closed to bouldering and it kicked my ass. I was climbing v1+ and had done a v2s at SG, but when i got to VW i had a hard time on V0+. I did get one V1, but there were a few V0+ I couldn't finish. Are people that much better at VW? Goodbye the little ego i had built up. Its plastic ...who cares? the particular technique might be a little different than what you are good at...take what you can from the gym and then apply it to the ROCK... Gyms suck, but they are good for working your weaknesses...(except cracks)... Quote
Lambone Posted November 20, 2003 Posted November 20, 2003 Distel32 said: Some setters at VW don't know shit and their problems are hard because they are bad. Whatever dude, that is bullshit. SG's problems are soft, and their setters don't no shit. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted November 20, 2003 Posted November 20, 2003 RuMR said: eternalX said: I went to VW yesterday because stone gardens was closed to bouldering and it kicked my ass. I was climbing v1+ and had done a v2s at SG, but when i got to VW i had a hard time on V0+. I did get one V1, but there were a few V0+ I couldn't finish. Are people that much better at VW? Goodbye the little ego i had built up. Its plastic ...who cares? Word up to that one. Not to mention, if you're climbing V2 one day and V0 a couple days later, the problem's probably just graded wrong. Happens all the damn time at the PRG, and people spend SO much time talking about it. Fuck it! If it feels way harder or easier than the grade, it probably is, but it's just a gym problem; don't mean nothin'. Not to mention, there is at least one frequent routesetter at the PRG who will put up problems and sometimes grade them without climbing them. Even if that isn't always the case, problems are usually just graded by whoever puts them up, with little consensus, whereas a route outside is probably going to be evaluated by at least a few people before a grade is settled on. If the routesetter is a technique fiend, or has a plus-ten ape index, or is four feet tall, or can squeeze juice out of the rocks like El Sharma, it's gonna affect their perception of how hard the rig is. Don't let it getcha down! Quote
Szyjakowski Posted November 20, 2003 Posted November 20, 2003 routes in a gym are so suck! gyms should put holds up and then climbers just pick their own way up......hard or easy......climber chooses....that way everyone can climb v20 and 5.15e..... thats the way we climb at the drydengunclub! Quote
RuMR Posted November 20, 2003 Posted November 20, 2003 Szyjakowski... Gyms are perfect for figuring out all sorts of things...working body tension...just how far you can reach off a shitty hold and how to stick something dynamically...plus, they make you stronger, and endurance goes through the roof...Plus, i love getting mauled by certain routesetters, cuz when i do manage to send one of their routes, i know i just accomplished something... Gyms are the ultimate for this shitty weather to keep you fit for the precious rock!!! Quote
Szyjakowski Posted November 20, 2003 Posted November 20, 2003 i have nothing against gyms really....just ranting late at night...haahaheehee...... Quote
Distel32 Posted November 20, 2003 Posted November 20, 2003 Lambone said: Distel32 said: Some setters at VW don't know shit and their problems are hard because they are bad. Whatever dude, that is bullshit. SG's problems are soft, and their setters don't no shit. Like I said in my previous post, at SG it depends on who's route you are climbing. I did indeed say some are soft. But if you climbs ISM's, Ionie's, and Ryan's, they are not soft. Also depends on if you are trying their v2's or 8's Quote
sk Posted November 20, 2003 Posted November 20, 2003 thanks guys!!!!!! I was so frustrated alst night becuase there are .10's that I can climb at the gym but I struggled on a .9 2 of them as a matter of fact... I gues grading the climbs is sort of inconsistant. Quote
Fromage Posted November 21, 2003 Posted November 21, 2003 A better consensus rating scheme would be to hang a sheet of paper and pencil at the bottom of each route. Everyone who climbs it writes down what grade they think it is. Every route will then have a wider range of difficulty, but as you all know, the wider the confidence interval, the higher the probability that it contains the true mean. Quote
Matt_Anderson Posted November 21, 2003 Posted November 21, 2003 Was also a refugee from the SG comp prep situation. It looks like VW problems seem to favor crimps more than slopers (relative to SG) and that the people there seems to have adapted. Found that I bouldered roughly two V grades harder on sloper problems than the crimp problems whle I was at VW. Quote
klenke Posted November 24, 2003 Posted November 24, 2003 Fromage said: A better consensus rating scheme would be to hang a sheet of paper and pencil at the bottom of each route. Everyone who climbs it writes down what grade they think it is. Every route will then have a wider range of difficulty, but as you all know, the wider the confidence interval, the higher the probability that it contains the true mean. I have actually thought about this in the sense that how hard a route is often depends on one's height. If the setter is 6 feet tall and he/she judges it to be a 5.9, this might turn out to be a 5.10 (or worse) for someone who is only 5'6". Maybe each route is rated by the setter for an average height, which I suppose is implied. But if a setter is of above average height, then he/she may rate it too easy for the person who is of average (lower) height, i.e., it will appear harder for the shorter person. Quote
RuMR Posted November 24, 2003 Posted November 24, 2003 klenke said: Fromage said: A better consensus rating scheme would be to hang a sheet of paper and pencil at the bottom of each route. Everyone who climbs it writes down what grade they think it is. Every route will then have a wider range of difficulty, but as you all know, the wider the confidence interval, the higher the probability that it contains the true mean. I have actually thought about this in the sense that how hard a route is often depends on one's height. If the setter is 6 feet tall and he/she judges it to be a 5.9, this might turn out to be a 5.10 (or worse) for someone who is only 5'6". Maybe each route is rated by the setter for an average height, which I suppose is implied. But if a setter is of above average height, then he/she may rate it too easy for the person who is of average (lower) height, i.e., it will appear harder for the shorter person. disagree...generally i find when a problem is tough, its not cuz its reachy, more like i'm lacking something else...reach is not a good excuse... Quote
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