Sol Posted November 16, 2003 Share Posted November 16, 2003 Climbed a fun variation on the Upper Town Wall yesterday. Went up on thursday and solo-aided the first pitch of the Green Dragon and fixed a rope. Weather was warm and sunny. Came back Friday morning with my partner Ty, weather was not so sunny. Started jugging up the line a little before nine. Ty cruised the second pitch of the Dragon. Then on the third pitch I climbed the Dragon til' the bathtub sized detached block, from where I headed right to the triple overhangs on the fourth pitch of Town Crier. Killer pitch, great exposure through the overhangs, easy aid on rusty fixed pins. As soon as I hit the belay it started raining. Rained off and on as Ty styled the fifth C2+ pitch. Topped out on the wall a little after 3. Inhaled congratulatory combustibles on the top. Hiked south and rapped off the tree. Hiked back to car and drank beer. In all a super fun day. We were stoked to pull it off this late in the year in questionable weather. Seems to be the quickest way to climb the wall when free climbing isn't an option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted November 16, 2003 Share Posted November 16, 2003 Nice. That overhanging pitch is fun. Can't beat the views. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted November 17, 2003 Share Posted November 17, 2003 Green --> Crier --> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted November 17, 2003 Share Posted November 17, 2003 C2+ on Town Crier? Has it gotten harder since the last time I climbed it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slabby Posted November 17, 2003 Share Posted November 17, 2003 danielpatricksmith said: C2+ on Town Crier? Has it gotten harder since the last time I climbed it? Thats a pretty friggin passive-aggressive statement. Where's the supportiveness everyone's been squacking about? Maybe you should say what you mean like "C2+? Hahh young man! For a climber with BIG balls like me it C0, maybe C1-. Don't come back and post until you sack up" Congrats on a Green Dragon-Town Crier link up.! Short days and cold mornings definitely require lots more motivation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted November 17, 2003 Share Posted November 17, 2003 frosty_the_tradman said: Climbed a fun variation on the Upper Town Wall yesterday. Went up on thursday and solo-aided the first pitch of the Green Dragon and fixed a rope. Weather was warm and sunny. Came back Friday morning with my partner Ty, weather was not so sunny. Started jugging up the line a little before nine. Ty cruised the second pitch of the Dragon. Then on the third pitch I climbed the Dragon til' the bathtub sized detached block, from where I headed right to the triple overhangs on the fourth pitch of Town Crier. Killer pitch, great exposure through the overhangs, easy aid on rusty fixed pins. As soon as I hit the belay it started raining. Rained off and on as Ty styled the fifth C2+ pitch. Topped out on the wall a little after 3. Inhaled congratulatory combustibles on the top. Hiked south and rapped off the tree. Hiked back to car and drank beer. In all a super fun day. We were stoked to pull it off this late in the year in questionable weather. Seems to be the quickest way to climb the wall when free climbing isn't an option. Saw you guys up there. We were getting rained off Heaven's Gate. Y'all must not have gotten back to your truck till late, b/c we were drinking beer in the parking lot until dark and didn't see you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted November 17, 2003 Author Share Posted November 17, 2003 danielpatricksmith said: C2+ on Town Crier? Has it gotten harder since the last time I climbed it? That's just what are guidebook said. It was easy, chill aid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted November 17, 2003 Author Share Posted November 17, 2003 specialed said: frosty_the_tradman said: Climbed a fun variation on the Upper Town Wall yesterday. Went up on thursday and solo-aided the first pitch of the Green Dragon and fixed a rope. Weather was warm and sunny. Came back Friday morning with my partner Ty, weather was not so sunny. Started jugging up the line a little before nine. Ty cruised the second pitch of the Dragon. Then on the third pitch I climbed the Dragon til' the bathtub sized detached block, from where I headed right to the triple overhangs on the fourth pitch of Town Crier. Killer pitch, great exposure through the overhangs, easy aid on rusty fixed pins. As soon as I hit the belay it started raining. Rained off and on as Ty styled the fifth C2+ pitch. Topped out on the wall a little after 3. Inhaled congratulatory combustibles on the top. Hiked south and rapped off the tree. Hiked back to car and drank beer. In all a super fun day. We were stoked to pull it off this late in the year in questionable weather. Seems to be the quickest way to climb the wall when free climbing isn't an option. Saw you guys up there. We were getting rained off Heaven's Gate. Y'all must not have gotten back to your truck till late, b/c we were drinking beer in the parking lot until dark and didn't see you. yeah, we proablay got back to the truck a little before six. had minor difficulties getting off the wall. neither of us had done the descent but we followed nelson's beta and walked to the south side of the wall to a slinged tree by a gully. a double rope rap didn't quite get us to the ground but did reach a bolted sport anchor. when we tried to pull the ropes they wouldn't budge so my partner prusiked the rope up to the top re adjusted where the knot layed and rapped back down. Rope pulled, rapped down. Proabaly took about an extra hour. on his way back down Ty noticed a few bolts leading from the tree down to another bolted anchor. do most people downclimb to this anchor then make a single double rope rap to the ground? Seems like the thing to do. for giving heaven's gate a try on such a questionable day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted November 17, 2003 Share Posted November 17, 2003 I've found its just easier to rap the route on Town Crier or Green Drag-on. You can bail from anywhere on Heaven's Gate, so its no big deal. Plus the first pitch is overhung and under a roof so it stays dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted November 17, 2003 Share Posted November 17, 2003 With 2 60 m ropes you can rap from the top-out of Green Drag-on in three rappels. 1 - From the top chains to the pitch 5 belay. 2- From pitch 5 belay to Pitch 3 belay (skip p4 under the roof) 3 - Pitch 3 belay (top of p2) to Ground - rope stretcher, go climbers left to the ledge at the base of DH. Takes about 20 minutes. 1 or 2 less rappels than Town Crier. I allways wondered about linking the two at the Tripple Roofs, souds cool. Pitch 4 on GD is real fun though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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