Leavenworth Crack Climbs

[Peter_Puget]

Spring is but hours away and with it comes a new season of fun in the sun rock climbing. I have climbed most everything that really interests me as far as cracks go at Leavenworth but I sure if I was less ignorant I’d have a tick list the size of my arm. So forgetting the classics, what crack climbs are worth doing that are more off the beaten path?

I’ll start it off with a couple of less well traveled recommends:

Lazy Boy 11b: Bottom is scarier but easier than top. Top is strenuous but not too technical.

Scholar w/ A Dollar 10b: Starts off scruffy past a couple of bolts but then turns into a great steep splitter crack crux.

???? .10: I forgot the name but it starts out of a cave high and right on Careno crag. Fun stemming with a face finish.

Has anyone ever found Pivotal Moment? If so is it worth doing?

[rayborbon]

You should check out Pearly gates if you have not been there. Good cracks and routes.

[Dru]

Roof Crack at Mtneers dome Royal FlushDebs Crack. I love Viktor's description: "Much ballyhooed overhanging crack of infamy. watch for gory wads of tape at base." Empire State at Peshastin.

Peter: is the one out of the cave you mention, Condo Corner?

[chucK]

Probably too easy for Peter, but Bob's 5th (? the one rated 5.9) crack on the BOB wall is sweet (but short). Check that one out after doing Cocaine Crack.

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by chucK:

Probably too easy for Peter, but Bob's 5th (? the one rated 5.9) crack on the BOB wall is sweet (but short). Check that one out after doing Cocaine Crack.

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whats with the 10a rating on Bobs 2nd? that thing is a 50lb. bag of sand.

[Peter_Puget]

Dru - Hmm Don’t think I have climbed Empire State. Tell me more.

Yep that’s the name - Condo Corner.

Ray –

I’ll have to ask Viktor for that topo.

ChucK –

Bob’s does have some great routes. Does the 5.9 you are talking about climb and steepening buttress.? BTW the crack rated 5.10a (with the hole) is really 5.11. Short crux but a bit rough texture. And it’s easy to TR. Good pro for leading too. Really fun lieback/jamming.

[chucK]

quote:

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Originally posted by Peter Puget:

Does the 5.9 you are talking about climb and steepening buttress?

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It goes up a fun balancy face-climbing-type crack to below a small roof, then you pull over the roof in perfect handjams.

The anchor is situated perfectly for a half-(50m)rope rap/toprope. A nice little out of the way sport-crack crag.

[Dru]

Empire State is a 5.7 or 5.8 sandstone Chimney on the backside of Grand Central to the right of the black-streaked Henry Barber route (Vertigo?). I did it about 11 years ago as a beginning climber following some Coast Range hardman up it and it was my 1st chimney climb ever. Luckily its hard to fall out of them. i recall some grunting and learning how to remove Big Bros whikle I climbed although I think you can adequately protect it with #3 camaots and smaller. Doesnt seem to get done much but I have fond memories of it anyways. would like to lead it one day when feeling in need of a good sandy masochism fest.

[Peter_Puget]

I think I might have done that guy but I'll have to check a guide to be sure.

Here is another recommend probably morepopular than the others I suggested but Yellow Bird on Midnight is great fun.

Anyone ever do Wall Steet?

What about that O.W. squeeze near the mouth of the Tumwater?

[ 03-19-2002: Message edited by: Peter Puget ]

[Dru]

Is Existential Exit at Purina any good?Or what about the cracks at Marley crags? That looks like some odd rock. I cragged on schist once in New Zealand and it was bizarre. No friction even on the slighest negative slope, so you would be pinching tiny quartz knobs in the midde of huge flat slippery holds.

Another route I did the same trip as Empire State was Cat Burglar at Castle. Does not seem to see almost any traffic compared to other routes on that crag but offers interesting moderate climbing for the leader looking for an uncrowded easier route. I believe it still has Beckey or Schoening ring blades in situ as well, mostly just the ring sticking out from a sandpile...

[ 03-19-2002: Message edited by: Dru ]

[rayborbon]

Peter Puget (or should I post your real name?),

Dont even go to Leavenworth for good cracks. Fossil Rock has the best one around. It's 5.12+ and is called the Hardest Crack in the state. I am not sure why it is rated so hard. Maybe it is harder to stay in the thing because of the intense pain you get.Check it out mega classic roof crack!

[chucK]

I think Empire state if not my first gear lead was probably done in my first year of leading. I remember a great kneelock entering the chimney with an irregularity that dug into my bone and hurt for weeks. Maybe noone knows of it because only newbies are dumb enough to climb it?

[dberdinka]

Hey Dru, I was just trying to think of this 10a near the Purina Crags thats has 3 (?) stars in the guide book. Existential Exit sounds right. I recall it being an excellent route, steep and spicy compared to most crack climbs in the area at that grade.

While not really off the beaten path "The Bone" on lower Castle is definitely exciting and is a great link up to the south face of Jello Tower and Midway Direct-Direct.

Spaghetti Sauce might be the best 5.8 anywhere with friction, to layback, to stem to jam to chimney. Fun!

[haireball]

Peter -

I was with Cilley when he climbed Pivotal Moment. It's probably only worth doing if you can complete the initial roof sequence to reach the crack. I couldn't...

my personal favorites include Bo Derek and Bondage on Givler's Dome; Vertebra, Devils Fright, and the Nose of Jello Tower on Castle; Easter Overhang and Black Widow on midnight for off-width connoiseurs...

Dru - "Vertigo" is the other chimney route next to Empire State. Henry's route is named "Bombshelter".

I haven't tried Carnival Crack, but finally got around to taking a close look at it a few weeks ago, and it begs for an attempt...

[ 03-19-2002: Message edited by: haireball ]

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by haireball:

Peter -

I haven't tried Carnival Crack, but finally got around to taking a close look at it a few weeks ago, and it begs for an attempt...

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Dont forget your sticky rubber helmet for the skull jam no hands rest!

[kevin_page]

quote:

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Originally posted by Dru:

Or what about the cracks at Marley crags? That looks like some odd rock. ]

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Marley Crags are a blast and an especially good place on a hot day and you're very likely to have the area to youself.

[Peter_Puget]

Haireball -

Any good beta on finding it? [Pivotal Moment] I tried before and couldn't!

Carnival crack is not a typical OW. It has irregular edges (ouch!) and is nothing like a Yosemite wide crack.

I'll remember Black Widow. It has been on my list for awhile. Thanks for the suggestion.

[ 03-19-2002: Message edited by: Peter Puget ]

[pope]

Scholar with a Dollar gets might vote for a Leavenwoth sleeper. It might need a scrub, but that's a great route with steep, strenuous climbing. La Cucaracha ain't bad, and a fun TR is East of Java. Check out Madsen's Chimney. Also a nice little 5.8 corner down and left (climber's left) from Givler's dome.

[rayborbon]

I have to agree with someone up there saying Spaghetti Sauce rox. If you like a nice 5.8 then it is right off the road!

Peter Puget if you have time I can show you an undeveloped crag I dont have time for. It's kinda in that Lworth area... You'll certainly find new steep crack systems there and no lines. Just have to walk for an hour...

[fredrogers]

quote:

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Originally posted by kevin page:

Marley Crags are a blast and an especially good place on a hot day and you're very likely to have the area to youself.

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Hmm. Thats funny. I made the long trek up there once and was not so inclined to return. I guess if the Icicle/Tumwater is crowded and it's either that or mini-golf, sure, go fer it.

[max]

I second the "neah" on Marley crags. They're just not worth the tromp. The only climb there I think deserves more than one star is the .9 finger crack in the upper left part of the crag. The rest...

[Peter_Puget]

Hey if you did that I couldn't wear my green tights any more. Is it in the guidebook? Fossil is a pretty fun place.

I think Existential is ok. Not great but pretty fun. The rock is a bit grainy esp. at the top. Can't seem to remember the crux. The .10 crack on the Bale/Kramar route is much better!

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by dberdinka:

Hey Dru, I was just trying to think of this 10a near the Purina Crags thats has 3 (?) stars in the guide book. Existential Exit sounds right. I recall it being an excellent route, steep and spicy compared to most crack climbs in the area at that grade.

While not really off the beaten path "The Bone" on lower Castle is definitely exciting and is a great link up to the south face of Jello Tower and Midway Direct-Direct.

Spaghetti Sauce might be the best 5.8 anywhere with friction, to layback, to stem to jam to chimney. Fun!

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Last year I did the Bone to Canary. That is a good one that just keeps comin at ya with 4 real good pitches in a row! I would like to do that again then run up to Midnight and do Wild Traverse. That would be a big day out. Assuming I can find the correct ledge to start on on Midnight this time.

Has anybody done West Side Story traversing pitch on the west side of Icicle Buttress? Sounds neat, full pitch leftwards traverse.

[Bug]

Hump on up to Bridge Creek wall and take your pick. When it warms up, take water and a snake stick too. It's been ten years since I was up there but I remember doing three different hand cracks in one afternoon. I don't know if any of them are named. They were all in the 10+ range. Thin to OW. There are a few nice lines up there worth the hike.

[NoBolt]

Last year I spent some time up around Duty Dome and Fish wall. There is all kinds of fun routes there. Most are single pitches however we linked together a few crack and sport routes for fun. It was great because people were watching us from the road so we started waving to them like Mr. Bean (flying fickle finger of fate) and they waved back!