RuMR Posted October 10, 2003 Share Posted October 10, 2003 mixing a plyometric style training into climbing??? PROS: ? CONS: ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figger_Eight Posted October 11, 2003 Share Posted October 11, 2003 Pros: increased speed of contraction and increased strength. Good for throws, deadpoints, ice climbing, bouldering, bar brawls. Cons: Increased girth and weight of muscles. Marginally affects endurance. Increased risk of injury. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted October 11, 2003 Share Posted October 11, 2003 isn't the best training for climbing actually climbing. So why do something thats less effective and less fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted October 11, 2003 Share Posted October 11, 2003 eric8 said: isn't the best training for climbing actually climbing. So why do something thats less effective and less fun. Because at some point your body mass isn't enough to provide a real workout to your arms/back/shoulder/ab muscles, as fingers are the weak link. Hence, to keep getting stronger, at some point machines/weights are more effective. Twight says so. Duh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted October 11, 2003 Share Posted October 11, 2003 cracked saidBecause at some point your body mass isn't enough to provide a real workout to your arms/back/shoulder/ab muscles, as fingers are the weak link. Hence, to keep getting stronger, at some point machines/weights are more effective. Twight says so. Duh! When was the last time you couldn't do a climb cause your abs, back, or biceps gave out. If it happened you should work on form more which is from . . . more climbing. Twight has alot of good things to say but his training regimen is crap and based on his false ideas on training. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted October 11, 2003 Share Posted October 11, 2003 texplorer said: cracked saidBecause at some point your body mass isn't enough to provide a real workout to your arms/back/shoulder/ab muscles, as fingers are the weak link. Hence, to keep getting stronger, at some point machines/weights are more effective. Twight says so. Duh! When was the last time you couldn't do a climb cause your abs, back, or biceps gave out. If it happened you should work on form more which is from . . . more climbing. Twight has alot of good things to say but his training regimen is crap and based on his false ideas on training. I was not basing my argument on personal experience. Besides, I was being facetious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted October 11, 2003 Share Posted October 11, 2003 Oh, and it might be interesting what Glasgowkiss has to say on the subject. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 11, 2003 Author Share Posted October 11, 2003 eric8 said: isn't the best training for climbing actually climbing. So why do something thats less effective and less fun. Thissiz a stupid statement...its damn tough to just "go climbing" when you have a wife, two kids, a 40 hour a week job...SOOO, it would be nice to have some tools in drawer for when you do get a chance to "go climbing"...if you don't have anything relevant to add, buzz off... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted October 13, 2003 Share Posted October 13, 2003 RuMR, are you referring to the schpiel in the new R&I? If not, you should run out (right now!) and buy it, as there's an article on plyo' training. Seems that, like campusing, it can be a very effective tool if used in moderation. Otherwise, you're probably gonna blow out something useful, rendering your newfound ability to dyno 6 feet with a mere twitch of your forearms totally useless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted October 13, 2003 Share Posted October 13, 2003 Ok Rumr here is a bit of my “master plan” Now until 2004 - loose weight and work on one arm. November to 2004 - strengthen fingers and tendons 2004 - climbing gym a lot and work campusing into the mix! June 2004 – WORLD DOMINATION! PP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 13, 2003 Author Share Posted October 13, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: RuMR, are you referring to the schpiel in the new R&I? If not, you should run out (right now!) and buy it, as there's an article on plyo' training. Seems that, like campusing, it can be a very effective tool if used in moderation. Otherwise, you're probably gonna blow out something useful, rendering your newfound ability to dyno 6 feet with a mere twitch of your forearms totally useless. HAHAHAHA...no...not referring to that... Actually, i'm trying to decide if i should work harder boulder problems sans weight or to climb in a weighted vest on longer problems...my physical weight is at the lowest its been in a long time (around 124lbs or so)...these two things are at the opposite ends of the scale...one is like weight-lifting...the other is just a shitload of physical work...the weighted vest is kicking in an extra 10-15 lbs of weight... It seems that i fall off of endurance routes, yet i also fall off of boulder problems...in short, I SUCK and i'm tired of getting my ass kicked...a large part of my problem lies in an inability to consistently get outside on real rock, so my projecting just falls to the wayside...VERY FRUSTRATING...get close to a route, then not come back to it for a long time (3 to 4 months)...pisses me off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted October 13, 2003 Share Posted October 13, 2003 RuMR said: Dr_Flash_Amazing said: RuMR, are you referring to the schpiel in the new R&I? If not, you should run out (right now!) and buy it, as there's an article on plyo' training. Seems that, like campusing, it can be a very effective tool if used in moderation. Otherwise, you're probably gonna blow out something useful, rendering your newfound ability to dyno 6 feet with a mere twitch of your forearms totally useless. HAHAHAHA...no...not referring to that... Actually, i'm trying to decide if i should work harder boulder problems sans weight or to climb in a weighted vest on longer problems...my physical weight is at the lowest its been in a long time (around 124lbs or so)...these two things are at the opposite ends of the scale...one is like weight-lifting...the other is just a shitload of physical work...the weighted vest is kicking in an extra 10-15 lbs of weight... It seems that i fall off of endurance routes, yet i also fall off of boulder problems...in short, I SUCK and i'm tired of getting my ass kicked...a large part of my problem lies in an inability to consistently get outside on real rock, so my projecting just falls to the wayside...VERY FRUSTRATING...get close to a route, then not come back to it for a long time (3 to 4 months)...pisses me off I hear you about projecting...I have never had the chance to consistently work a project outside due to school, weather, partners, etc, etc. But I doubt that you suck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 13, 2003 Author Share Posted October 13, 2003 Trust me...i suck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p_b Posted October 14, 2003 Share Posted October 14, 2003 RuMR said: Trust me...i suck Hah! I still doubt it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted October 14, 2003 Share Posted October 14, 2003 rumr sucks compared to sharma, haha rumr and dfa, my rolemodels! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted October 14, 2003 Share Posted October 14, 2003 Distel32 said: rumr and dfa, my rolemodels! There you have it! The first step down the path to fame, success, endless autograph requests, and all kinds of Prana-clad scandal! In order to bolster the foundations of your Sports Climber persona, you may want to practice some or all of the following lines in your spare time, preferably in front of a mirror, and definitely while wearing your climbing attire: "A stick clip? No, don't have one. D'you want me to put it up for you?" "Can I borrow your stick clip?" "Oh, yeah, I been on that. Didn't feel that hard." "DFA said I should get on that." "Yeah, I think I'll get it next go." "D'you need some beta on that?" "This place is such a fuckin' pile." "FUCK THIS SHIT! I FUCKING QUIT!" (best accompanied by the flinging of chalkbag, shoes, etc.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted October 14, 2003 Share Posted October 14, 2003 GET ME OFF THIS F'ING THING. TAKE. DIRT. NOW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 14, 2003 Share Posted October 14, 2003 [stamping feet and cussing] I would have SO sent if you hadn't HOSED me on the fucking CLIP asshole ! [/hissyfit] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 14, 2003 Author Share Posted October 14, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: Distel32 said: rumr and dfa, my rolemodels! "FUCK THIS SHIT! I FUCKING QUIT!" (best accompanied by the flinging of chalkbag, shoes, etc.) You DIRTY PLAGIARIZER!!! WTF!! STEALING MY QUOTES!!! You forgot: "I hate this fucking sport!" and for emphasis, you must crush your hand into the wall enough to break it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted October 14, 2003 Share Posted October 14, 2003 RuMR, even though you should be giving out the training beta, the Doctor will give his two cents (imagine that!). In DFA's experience, you'd be better served working the longer stuff with the added weight on. At least thus far in the climbing gig, most routes have needed more endurance/fitness than really sick power to accomplish. For example, there are hordes of people at the PRG who can boulder around V7 or harder, and are mighty strong. Yet, when out at Smith, they are hanging all over .12a (or way easier, even) because they can't do more than four or five moves in a row without getting pumped silly. Of course it doesn't hurt to have that wicked explosive power, but outside, it seems to more often come down to how long you can hold on, and how clever are you at the mental game. This is supported also by the number of people sending hard lines at Smith who don't boulder especially hard. And finally, the fitness is just way harder to come by than the power. You can get burly pretty quick, and without too much concerted effort, but you really have to work hard to get that good fitness. For what it's worth, anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 14, 2003 Author Share Posted October 14, 2003 Thisizz a very good observation... case in point, would be Steve Mrazek...sucker is a redpointing machine... also, bob rogoz falls into this category as well... weight vest arrives monday...I'm still gonna mix it up a bit, though... Taken to running to keep overall weight down, man, THAT is a boring pasttime... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 14, 2003 Author Share Posted October 14, 2003 The other thing could be attention span...i know that if'n i work long enough, i can send some stuff...but that comes from lotta years of climbing... ie. You can wire almost anything down to 5.10+ if you can hang onto the holds I think a lot of these younger folks don't want to trip to smith to work just one route until its in their redpoint range... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted October 14, 2003 Share Posted October 14, 2003 Man, lotsa those gully lurkers are like that. Sure, if you're gonna be way on top of the game, you better be bouldering V10 and be able to hang on for hours. But for most of us mortals, the enduro and a modest base of bouldering power is fine. Plus, you're gonna get stronger hauling your ass around with all that extra weight on anyway. When DFA was doing a lot of lead-wall slogging with a weight belt, he would try to throw in some dynamic moves while doing laps. Mixing those in between easy moves on good holds is a nice way to train the mental, too. Helps you realize "hey, OK, even though I'm totally flamed, I can still punch some hard moves or hang some bad grips", which is a great thing to remember when you're flailing your way to the anchors. The thing is, though, if you put in your work on that shit in the gym, you don't have to spend years projecting Smith routes. It's the clowns who do nothing but boulder and get frustrated when they can only go bolt to bolt at the crag who think it's too boring or too much work to send a route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted October 14, 2003 Share Posted October 14, 2003 RuMR said: I think a lot of these younger folks don't want to trip to smith to work just one route until its in their redpoint range... I don't think Chain is really in my redpoint level yet, but I'm going to be working the shit out of it every time I go down because I think it is awesome. That is my goal this winter is to climb more sport and work on my enduro. Like DFA said being able to pull a couple hard moves rarely comes into use on routes. I'm so excited to be climbing more sport. I'm going to try and make it down to smith twice a month this winter, and so far it is working out. You two rock, and have good suggestions! I might start TRing in the gym with my pack on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 14, 2003 Share Posted October 14, 2003 or you can do boulder problems with a boulder mat strapped to your back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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