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Posted
iain said:

what is a "systems wall"?

 

Systems training is something the Euros (Germans, if the Doc' recalls correctly) came up with, whereby you have a short climbing wall (think bouldering height) with a variety of matched grips at regular intervals up the wall (i.e. pairs of identical holds for right and left hands), and some footholds in specific places at regular intervals.

 

So, say you might have sets of edges all the way up, sets of slopers, sets of pinches, sets of jugs, etc., and some decent footholds placed for toeing straight on, and for backstepping, etc., this being your "systems wall". This way, you can target specific movements or grips very effectively. You can tailor it so you're in awkward positions with your feet to build up some core strength, you can work lockoffs on crappy edges, or whatever. The idea is that you have more or less a grid of varied holds, identical for each hand, so you can get focused, balanced training. It's much less injurious than the campus board, but is apparently quite good at whipping that ass into shape.

 

At the PRG, the systems wall is up front, by the cubbies, between the 45 and the little toprope area near the big garage door, where those big square holds with multiple grips on them are. Those are called "systems tiles", and they give you the variety of holds on one handy chunk of polyester resin, with a couple different pockets, edges, slopers, and sidepulls/gastons.

 

Systemsness, in the shell of a nut. snaf.gif

 

Schpiel on systems training from Franklin Climbing website.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

System training is pretty much all I do now. I haven't been able to go to the gym in a couple of months so I built a tiny wall in my basement. I have small(to first joint) edges, pinches, side pulls, underclings, and 2 finger pockets for little "system boulder problems". I work one arm lock offs with my feet high. I also like to place an okay hold with crappy feet and do BIG reaches to a not so good edge or pocket, this helps you with big moves and contact streangth.

 

With the little "system boulder problems" you try and do them as staticlly as you can. This helps you build up more streangth than if you were to do them dynamic.

 

I think bouldering in the gym has it's place though, it allows you do build more technique, where as system is more power. As I am lacking in technique I can't wait to get into the gym a few days a week now that cross-country is nearing its end.

 

I feel that system training is far superior to regular bouldering. I think the next thing I'm going to rig up is a campus board, but I think I need to get a little stronger before thats really worth it.

  • 3 months later...

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