dkemp Posted September 29, 2003 Share Posted September 29, 2003 I had my heart set on the Icicle's Classic Crack being my first trad lead. So yesterday I practiced (placing gear on TR) several times, then my buds told me 'Okay Dox, you can do it!' So I got myself good 'n scared then I did it! Photo by my pal Seth - Whoo - hoo! Doxey's leadin' Classic Crack! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Figger_Eight Posted September 29, 2003 Share Posted September 29, 2003 Yow...that's a stiff climb for a first trad lead! Good for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted September 29, 2003 Share Posted September 29, 2003 here's to many more good leads! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted September 29, 2003 Share Posted September 29, 2003 Nice job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot'teryx Posted September 29, 2003 Share Posted September 29, 2003 hella stiff for a 1st lead, nice job! that might be my 100th trad lead.....maybe. Gotta leanr crack tech forst I guess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkemp Posted September 29, 2003 Author Share Posted September 29, 2003 Thanks y'all! When you get a minute you might want to see more pictures on the Bushwhacker site. That was fun. Next is Tieton for Western Front, 5.4, (I practiced on that one a couple weeks ago) and other stuff in the .4, .5 and .6 range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 29, 2003 Share Posted September 29, 2003 dox did you have enough trust in your gear you felt confident falling on it? if yes then skip those pre practiced 5.4-5.6s and go directly to SABER at castle rock. do not pass go - do not collect $200... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkemp Posted September 29, 2003 Author Share Posted September 29, 2003 Yeah, I coulda fell on that gear - I felt real good about each piece. On my practice climbs I put a long sling in some of the pieces and bounce-tested them, and I've had my pals checking my gear and critiquing. Saber, eh? All right then, but I haven't been building anchors out of gear. I got book-learnin' from John Long and some practice standing on the ground - I got the idea, I just don't have experience. Anyway, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dryad Posted September 29, 2003 Share Posted September 29, 2003 I'll go do Saber with ya sometime. Happy leading! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 29, 2003 Share Posted September 29, 2003 dox - building gear anchors on the ground, and on a ledge, works the same. mostly the difference is on the ground you have your whole rack to choose from but on the ledge you've placed half of it. as i recall saber has bolted anchors anyway. martian diagonal at peshastin, or r&d route on icicle buttress would be other good first multi pitch leads for the new leader. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted September 29, 2003 Share Posted September 29, 2003 Saber has a huge pre-set anchor at the first belay, and I don't know exactly where the next belay will end up because I can't remember when I even climbed that pitch, but I'm pretty sure you'll find plenty of very secure belay ledges up there - so much so that even if your anchor failed you aren't going to get the chop. Saber or Midway are both excellent choices. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted September 29, 2003 Share Posted September 29, 2003 2nd pitch of saber goes to the top with a 60m rope and no drag. there are some bolts about 30 ft or so from the top. on the top there are lotsa boulders to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toast Posted September 29, 2003 Share Posted September 29, 2003 Nice job Doxy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted September 30, 2003 Share Posted September 30, 2003 Congrats, dkemp! R&D would make an excellent second trad lead. It's got it all: slab down low if you veer up and right instead of the traditional first (veggie) pitch, rambly-blocky moderate angle stuff in the middle, a "ship's prow" squeeze chimney that leads to an "easy chair" belay, then good exposure of your backside for a very short bit of crack up near the top, then a pitch or two of easy walk-up/walk-off to rap station. Enjoy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrambler Posted September 30, 2003 Share Posted September 30, 2003 (edited) dkemp said: Thanks y'all! When you get a minute you might want to see more pictures on the Bushwhacker site. That was fun. Next is Tieton for Western Front, 5.4, (I practiced on that one a couple weeks ago) and other stuff in the .4, .5 and .6 range. Awesome, Classic Crack goes at 5.8+. You seem to have a good idea what you need to do. I'd listen to my own instincts rather than blindly following someone else's suggestions. To warm up, I climbed some stuff at the Tietons' Royal Columns in the mid 5's that I thought would be easy and I was pleasantly surprised. Climbed Stacker, Good Timer, and Level Head (5.4-5.6, located to the left of Western Front). Then I led Mush Maker (5.7, ***). It starts as a hand jam/stem and progresses to a hand/foot jam. It really caught my attention! I swore to God that route was sandbagged! Hahahah, it was fun looking back on that experience. Yeah, and the thing I wanted to say is that there are fewer people at the Tietons and potentially less pressure on you to go too quickly so you can make good gear placements. Edited September 30, 2003 by scrambler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted September 30, 2003 Share Posted September 30, 2003 Nice, Dox! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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