lancegranite Posted September 19, 2003 Posted September 19, 2003 thin fingers is ok, narrow arrow direct is the reason to climb thin fingers. the 3rd pitch is so fun! just the feeling of joy turning the roof out the 5" crack is as close to heaven as the good lord will let a sinner like me. (you take what you can get...) Quote
erik Posted September 19, 2003 Posted September 19, 2003 lancegranite said: thin fingers is ok, narrow arrow direct is the reason to climb thin fingers. the 3rd pitch is so fun! just the feeling of joy turning the roof out the 5" crack is as close to heaven as the good lord will let a sinner like me. (you take what you can get...) yeah! narrow arrow on tr is good and super hard!!!! hardest 5.8+ ever! rope tricks get you all sorts of good places!!! Quote
Peter_Puget Posted September 19, 2003 Posted September 19, 2003 Are you guys using the new math? .8+? 5"? The Direct rocks. It's been mentioned several times on this site but no one ever seems to do it. Quote
erik Posted September 19, 2003 Posted September 19, 2003 now are we talkin about the one with the bolt at the start in the shallow stem box, up to the horizontal small mantles to the small hard roof into the other shallow stem box into the big flake layback into the then stemming section to the mantle? if so that is good times!! tho near impossible for me!! on tr on aid in general!!! Quote
Al_Pine Posted September 19, 2003 Posted September 19, 2003 Peter_Puget said: The Direct rocks. It's been mentioned several times on this site but no one ever seems to do it. The reason noone prolly does it is baecase there is an aid pitch to start it, and the guide says the bolts at the top are crap. Quote
RuMR Posted September 19, 2003 Posted September 19, 2003 Peter_Puget said: Are you guys using the new math? .8+? 5"? The Direct rocks. It's been mentioned several times on this site but no one ever seems to do it. Peter, the guide book mentions that this has not gone free on lead...has it been done on tr, even w/ hangs?? If so, approximate free rating would be what???? Quote
RuMR Posted September 19, 2003 Posted September 19, 2003 erik said: .12+ Things that make one go "hmmmm" or "mmmmm" Quote
DCramer Posted September 19, 2003 Posted September 19, 2003 You can traverse to the upper pitches of NAD very easily from a variety of routes to the right. Thin Fingers for example. Quote
lancegranite Posted September 20, 2003 Posted September 20, 2003 the first pitch was freed at 12+. the moves are not very hard..until the last bit, (5.11 to the crux then.. power! you motavated folks can train for this by climbing a vertical wall using foot jibs and the t-nut holes..don't forget to stuff in the RP'S. *** for you folks at home, 5" is five inches. my apologys to my MENSA friends out there! Quote
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