schnitzem Posted September 4, 2003 Share Posted September 4, 2003 Scheming a traverse across the Temple ridge spires in the Enchantments starting with Prusik Peaks south face then onto the Flake, Boxtop, Pogo Pinnacle, the High Priest….and ending with Mt. Temple. The traverse looks great on paper…..but is it feasible? Any beta or thoughts would be much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted September 4, 2003 Share Posted September 4, 2003 water will be an issue. email cptn caveman, he has the whole route beta'd out. the thing with the s face will be it requires more gear so you will have to slog that all. tho the s face is a primo route! have fun! days are getting shorter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pms Posted September 4, 2003 Share Posted September 4, 2003 If a couple of fat guys like Ray and myself can go from Prusik (w. ridge) to Boxtop and hike out, then it is certainly feasible. You could get lots of summits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted September 4, 2003 Share Posted September 4, 2003 Yeah, it's cool shit; been from Prusik to Monument. I see you forgot that one - DO IT!!! It's scary, but way cool. If you need a partner, let me know. Greg _W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schnitzem Posted September 8, 2003 Author Share Posted September 8, 2003 Thanks for the tips. Went for it this weekend in reverse starting with Mt. Temple, High Priest, Boxtop, and ending with Prusik. Great rock on all of the peaks....although it was hard to stay on the ridge proper for most of the climb. Boxtop was classic and the West Ridge of Prusik was the cherry on top. Only problem we had was water as Erik pointed out (in response)....so we got way dehydrated by the time we finished Prusik and I chucked a couple of times on the 10 mile hike out. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted September 8, 2003 Share Posted September 8, 2003 TO BARFING! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted September 8, 2003 Share Posted September 8, 2003 Scnitzem, good to see you two at Lake Vivienne on Sat. evening. I was the guy with the girl cooking by the Lake on your way out. Sounds like an excellent climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted September 8, 2003 Share Posted September 8, 2003 schnitzem said: Thanks for the tips. Went for it this weekend in reverse starting with Mt. Temple, High Priest, Boxtop, and ending with Prusik. Great rock on all of the peaks....although it was hard to stay on the ridge proper for most of the climb. Boxtop was classic and the West Ridge of Prusik was the cherry on top. Only problem we had was water as Erik pointed out (in response)....so we got way dehydrated by the time we finished Prusik and I chucked a couple of times on the 10 mile hike out. Thanks Did you skip Monument and Flake Tower? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schnitzem Posted September 9, 2003 Author Share Posted September 9, 2003 Unfortunately yes, would have loved to hit them too (noticed your earlier response) but did not have the time or energy. When you climbed Monument did you have to prusik the final summit block - like Beckey recomends? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schnitzem Posted September 9, 2003 Author Share Posted September 9, 2003 Hey ryland_moore , good connection....although I guess there weren't too many of us climbing last weekend. How was the rest of your trip? My buddy and I were jealous of your set-up.....two nights ....wine....girlfriend.... I was pretty stoked about our climb until ~Nada lake when I realized I had slammed to much water to fast after being dehydrated for most of the day. Are you in the Seattle area? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted September 9, 2003 Share Posted September 9, 2003 schnitzem said: Unfortunately yes, would have loved to hit them too (noticed your earlier response) but did not have the time or energy. When you climbed Monument did you have to prusik the final summit block - like Beckey recomends? There is no other way to summit, unless you can face climb in the hard 5.10's covered in lichen for 30' with no pro and probable death or certain maiming if you fall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted September 9, 2003 Share Posted September 9, 2003 Hey ryland_moore , good connection....although I guess there weren't too many of us climbing last weekend. How was the rest of your trip? My buddy and I were jealous of your set-up.....two nights ....wine....girlfriend.... I was pretty stoked about our climb until ~Nada lake when I realized I had slammed to much water to fast after being dehydrated for most of the day. Are you in the Seattle area? Schnitzem, not girlfriend, just friend from Leavenworth whom I met on Denali. We only stayed that one night and hiked out on Sunday after our climb. I live in Eugene, so Sunday was a pretty long day for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squid Posted September 9, 2003 Share Posted September 9, 2003 Hey kids, I'm heading up to the Enchantments tomorrow, and am thinking about doing the traverse, or seeing how far we can get heading east from Prussik. Are rap routes numerous along the ridge, or will we committed to climbing onward at certain points? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted September 9, 2003 Share Posted September 9, 2003 JUST BRING WEBBING. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 9, 2003 Share Posted September 9, 2003 Greg_W said: schnitzem said: Unfortunately yes, would have loved to hit them too (noticed your earlier response) but did not have the time or energy. When you climbed Monument did you have to prusik the final summit block - like Beckey recomends? There is no other way to summit, unless you can face climb in the hard 5.10's covered in lichen for 30' with no pro and probable death or certain maiming if you fall. The weakness for free climbers is on the north. But it's essentially a solo as mentioned. It deserves to stay unbolted and in it's current classic state. I think the Boxtop is trickier than Beckey let's on. It's all good granite so you'll have no problems- except if you need water on the ridge. Best done for bivewackers in late may so you can carry a stove and melt snow from nearby. After climbing Temple the best way down is probably down Temple Canyon. It's really nice in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schnitzem Posted September 10, 2003 Author Share Posted September 10, 2003 erik said: JUST BRING WEBBING. Confusing raps on boxtop, we finally rapped off the southside (3 raps with a 60M rope). Beckey says to rap on west side (true summit) off of a big horn....no thanks. Beckey has a typo on the High Priest rap, it should read do one rap off the east face not the west face. West face is 400 ft long and pitons are found on east face. Beckey also sandbagged the West face of High Priest.....he says 4th class...but it is clearly 5th and tons of fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 10, 2003 Share Posted September 10, 2003 Confusing raps on boxtop We had some interesting downclimbing. Then rapped the Beckey Route on the Special with pms and the fifi hook and a 30 meter line with a tiny stopper shoved behind the boulder above the tunnel back down and then another fifi hook special to the area where the red lichen traverse is. If someone's going to advocate bolts in the wilderness this might be the one worth arguing over. - expect some spray - In short I'll chime in again and say the Boxtop was trickier than what Beckey lead me to believe in his book. It was fun to tunnel through the mountain though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted September 10, 2003 Share Posted September 10, 2003 Cpt.Caveman said: Confusing raps on boxtop ...rapped the Beckey Route on the Special with pms and the fifi hook and a 30 meter line with a tiny stopper shoved behind the boulder above the tunnel back down and then another fifi hook special to the area where the red lichen traverse is. That is so cool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schnitzem Posted September 10, 2003 Author Share Posted September 10, 2003 Good Pic. I agree that the boxtop is a bit sand bagged and more committing than Beckey suggests....but there is no way in hell that bolts are neccessary on the peak.....plenty of horns and chockstones just require parties to leave a few slings behind. Just because a 30 M rope can't get you off a peak easily, does not justify bolting............bring a longer rope or expect to leave gear! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 10, 2003 Share Posted September 10, 2003 Just because a 30 M rope can't get you off a peak easily, does not justify bolting............bring a longer rope or expect to leave gear! Hey bud. Take it easy now I think you've been hooked on the trolling line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schnitzem Posted September 11, 2003 Author Share Posted September 11, 2003 Cpt.Caveman said: Just because a 30 M rope can't get you off a peak easily, does not justify bolting............bring a longer rope or expect to leave gear! Hey bud. Take it easy now I think you've been hooked on the trolling line. More like the fifi hook That and I couldn't let you get away with that comment without at least one what the "hell" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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