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Posted
lummox said:

catbirdseat said:

Pencil Pusher and I were out climbing the Beckey Route at the Feathers and noticed that the bottom links of the chains are worn at least half way though shocked.gif from people top roping and lowering off of them. Use quick draws to top rope and then rap. It's safer and puts less wear on the chains.

or just replace the fucking links you fucking dink. rolleyes.gif it aint like its brain surgery.

maillon.jpg

Why don't you go do it yourself, asshole. There are only several hundred routes there. If you start now you'll have them all done by the time you die of old age.
Posted
catbirdseat said:

lummox said:

catbirdseat said:

Pencil Pusher and I were out climbing the Beckey Route at the Feathers and noticed that the bottom links of the chains are worn at least half way though shocked.gif from people top roping and lowering off of them. Use quick draws to top rope and then rap. It's safer and puts less wear on the chains.

or just replace the fucking links you fucking dink. rolleyes.gif it aint like its brain surgery.

Why don't you go do it yourself, asshole. There are only several hundred routes there. If you start now you'll have them all done by the time you die of old age.

 

Chains are put there for lowering and rappeling. I'm afraid I have to agree with lummox on this one. If you notice that there is signifigant wear, then take it upon your self to go fix it up. Who do you think is gonna do it if you don't? :confused. See if there is a local bolt fund that can help with the cost of the materials.

 

I've done a lot of this stuff myself, and it always peeves me to hear a climber complaining that the chains are worn, or that there is hanger missing, and that "Some one should do something about it."

Posted
snoboy said:

I've done a lot of this stuff myself, and it always peeves me to hear a climber complaining that the chains are worn, or that there is hanger missing, and that "Some one should do something about it."

 

thumbs_up.gif

Posted
snoboy said:

 

Lead, then thread the chains. If you are gonna TR, hang the rope through a draw such that it is weighting the draw instead of the chain. TR all day if you want to, then last person up pulls the draw and lowers off. cool.gif

 

Nice thing here is any one can clean the anchor safely, even if they have little experience, because it is already threaded.

 

This very trick is suggested in the latest issue of R&I. It's one that I use quite frequently while sportin'.

 

No reason to put extra wear and tear on fixed anchors... you brought your quickdraws or lockers/slings... Use em!

A lot of chains are kinda rusty too which might make your rope dirtier than your nice clean brand-new draws.

 

 

 

Posted
snoboy said:

I've done a lot of this stuff myself, and it always peeves me to hear a climber complaining that the chains are worn, or that there is hanger missing, and that "Some one should do something about it."

 

I agree with you there, Snoboy, but I would point out that some times, a simple job of replacing some chains can turn into more than that. Anybody who takes it upon theirself to mess with a belay station (or even a single bolt, for that matter), better be ready to break tools, or to find out that the threads on the bolt become stripped or whatever, and have the sense of responsibility and follow through to come back and fix it. I'd be hesitant to suggest that anybody who doesn't like a chain should be in a hurry to go up there and change it.

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