Suggestions for easy climbs in the North Cascades?

[cluck]

Want to take the girlfriend out for an alpine climb in the North Cascades but I'm having trouble deciding where to go. She has alpine and limited glacier experience, but has been injured most of the season and isn't in great climbing shape right now. So we're looking for something like short Grade 1 with 4th class scrambling. We'll be a party of 2 so any glacier climbing would have to be very straightforward.

 

My first choice is probably Sahale (via Sahale glacier) but we're arriving Sunday late morning and I doubt we'll get permits. So we can either poach a campsite, try to go car-to-car, or go somewhere less crowded. Shuksan's Sulphide glacier would be perfect too, but I've already been there and I'm sure it'll be permitted out too.

 

Does anyone know of good climbs that might be less crowded? Not looking for any epic struggle, just an enjoyable scenic climb with the GF.

 

Thanks -

[Necronomicon]

cluck said:

Want to take the girlfriend out for an alpine climb in the North Cascades but I'm having trouble deciding where to go. She has alpine and limited glacier experience, but has been injured most of the season and isn't in great climbing shape right now. So we're looking for something like short Grade 1 with 4th class scrambling. We'll be a party of 2 so any glacier climbing would have to be very straightforward.

 

My first choice is probably Sahale (via Sahale glacier) but we're arriving Sunday late morning and I doubt we'll get permits. So we can either poach a campsite, try to go car-to-car, or go somewhere less crowded. Shuksan's Sulphide glacier would be perfect too, but I've already been there and I'm sure it'll be permitted out too.

 

Does anyone know of good climbs that might be less crowded? Not looking for any epic struggle, just an enjoyable scenic climb with the GF.

 

Thanks -

 

Is this a troll? I can't tell.

[cluck]

Necronomicon said:

Is this a troll? I can't tell.

 

No troll, just looking for suggestions. I've only been to NCNP once so I don't really know what's out there. If anyone has helpful information then great. If you think I should f$%# off and buy the book, that's fine too.

[dberdinka]

Mount Ruth. Easy and stupidly scenic.

[Greg_W]

cluck said:

Necronomicon said:

Is this a troll? I can't tell.

 

No troll, just looking for suggestions. I've only been to NCNP once so I don't really know what's out there. If anyone has helpful information then great. If you think I should f$%# off and buy the book, that's fine too.

 

Go buy the fucking book, read it, and interpret...

 

P.S. Now you know why I'm on the fuckhead list. hehehe

Edited August 27, 2003 by Greg_W

[Necronomicon]

dberdinka said:

Mount Ruth. Easy and stupidly scenic.

 

98% Hike, 2% Climb. Perfect.

[mattp]

Cluck - You said you were looking for short grade I climbs, but then you cited Sahale and Shuksan as examples of what you are looking for. In my book, these are both pretty big hikes and much more than a "short grade I." If a big hike with a glacier and an easy rock summit is what you are looking for, you might look at Silver Star Mountain, Silver Star Glacier. At this time of year, the campsite below Burgundy Col may be without water, so it'd probably be a good call to head in via Silver Star Creek. Whitehorse and Sloan Peak are also good candidates.

[cluck]

Great suggestions, Matt! From what I've read Sulphide and Sahale glaciers are rated as grade I climbs but are probably too long for most people to do in 1 day.

 

I guess what I meant to say was "a short overnight climb" - especially one with easy glacier slogging and easy rock scrambling.

 

Thanks again

[ryland_moore]

What about Black Peak? Not too long of an approach and good climbing. Can be a bit rough in the scree areas but not technical. For an overall ambiance, I'd go with Sahale. Try and get the permit, there were a lot left a few weekends ago on a Saturday afternoon for a sunday. If you are going this weekend though, forget it as it is the holiday weekend. I'd wait until the following weekend. For a shorter approach, could always do S. Arete of SEWS. Only one 5th classmove right at the start and then an EASY scramble to the summit. Super-easy approach too.

[DonnV]

This may be easier than what you're looking for, but Tomyhoi Peak is another incredibly scenic summit that is nothing more than a scramble for the last bit. No glacier travel. Really just a hike (look for Yellow Aster Butte in hiking guides). Really nice, but often crowded, area about halfway up to camp on benches amidst pools and rock.

[Paul_K]

Snowking is technically easy, very scenic, not crowded and no permit is required. It is a lot of distance and elevation though - quite the grunt - you would probably want to do it in two days.

[mtngrrrl]

You don't need permits for Sahale. It takes about 12 hours car2car at a moderate pace. Nice trail hike, onto scree, ascend glacier, scramble summit block. Water is available at glacier, but it's all dried up lower, though there is slight water run off over the trail. Snow line is high right now, so glacier travel is short. Some potential snow bridges to cross. Some open crevasses down low, but not really scary. YMMV.

 

Perhaps someone thought it was a troll is because there was a thread about Sahale being a GF climb.

 

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB2&Number=221646&Forum=UBB2&Words=sahale&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=3weeks&Main=221646&Search=true#Post221646

 

If you're looking for a rock climb, the North Face of Kangaroo Temple is an easy, low low 5th class on only a couple of moves. Takes about 3 pitches with minimal pro. If you're interested, I'm sure people would post more info.

 

I'm just wondering (and I'm not trying to be mean or troll)... but don't any of the guys around have a GF who climbs at least as hard if not hard than they?

[cluck]

Yeah, that thread is what interested me in Sahale in the first place.

 

Actually, she's got several alpine climbs under her belt so I know she's up for it. I'm just concerned for her physical ability as she's recovering from a back injury (non-climbing related).

 

Anyway, thanks guys & girls for the great suggestions! Now I've got several possible destinations to research and some backup options in case the permits don't work out.

 

Cheers!

[Cpt.Caveman]

Go do the sulphide glacier route. There's plenty of bivy room and it should be in perfect scrambling shape right now.

 

Probably one of my favorite mountains.

 

If you dont want to spend the night - you can go at a mellow pace with small packs at about 12-15 hours round trip. That's mellow pace I am sure.

[kklimber]

Hello Mtngrrl - I had a male friend come out from the East Coast many years ago who had some climbing experience, but I wasn't quite sure exactly how much. I took him up Sahale!!!

[ncascademtns]

Sahale is going to put you in the right spot!

Moderate hike, short glacier and easy rock scramble.

 

1 day or 2, you can go wrong.

 

You'll have the best views in the North Cascades!

 

[Bill_Simpkins]

In order of easy to hardest, but they are all easy:

 

-Cheam and Lady Peak(B.C.), Cheam is a hike on a trail, Lady is class 2-3 right next to it. Both easily done in a day. Close to the Sumas border.

-Mt. Watson, nice romp on East side of Baker lake. Road takes you to 4600 ft. (I think). Summit is like 6000 ( I think). Bring an ice axe, I've rapped off it, but you could probably scramble down without a problem.

-Ruth

-Sahale

-Tomyhoi, mostly a hike, some route fining and class 3-4 loose rock.

-Larrabee, 3-7 hours RT, lots of loose scrambling but very nice surroundings. Take Helmet.

 

 

 

[Cpt.Caveman]

You'll have the best views in the North Cascades!

 

That's easily debatable. THere are tons of summits with just as good views.

 

But it is a good view.

 

I remember some in the coast range climbs in the SW BC select book that have 20 times the view... It's not much farther a drive either.

 

Just stirring the pot.

[ncascademtns]

Bill_Simpkins said:

 

-Mt. Watson, nice romp on East side of Baker lake. Road takes you to 4600 ft. (I think). Summit is like 6000 ( I think). Bring an ice axe, I've rapped off it, but you could probably scramble down without a problem.

 

 

 

Watson NF is a nice climb but the summit can be scrambled from the west with ease.

Little off route finding and a short mild glacier.

Views of Baker, Shuksan and Beacon to the north are very enjoyable.

[mtngrrrl]

kklimber said:

Hello Mtngrrl - I had a male friend come out from the East Coast many years ago who had some climbing experience, but I wasn't quite sure exactly how much. I took him up Sahale!!!

 

And... what did he think? There's a guidebook out there that says "this hike will change your life..." It's pretty but,

 

So Cluck, what did you and your sweetie climb?

[cluck]

We callled the Marblemount ranger station from Sedro-wooley and they actually had permits for Sahale left Soooo - we were able to climb Sahale after all!

 

It was amazing. The approach was longer than I had envisioned, but still quite easy and on a giant highway. Camp was simply beautiful with spectacular views to the south.

Sahale View

 

The glacier and scramble were exactly what we were looking for - a chance to use our crampons and ice axes without much danger of falling in a hole and exciting but not too dangerous climbing.

 

Actually we ended up climbing the crest of the west ridge just for kicks. We couldn't readily identify the main route, so we just climbed the ridge in two pitches (she was a little unsure of the exposure so we felt short, top-roped pitches were better than simul-climbing)

 

Ursa Eagle was up there on Monday too and also had a hard time determining the "3rd or 4th class" route to the summit. We're discussing the many different options for the summit pinnacle on a different thread:here