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Posted

..it's most often a

Cam PreferenceWild Country Forged FriendWild Country Technical FriendBlack Diamond CamalotCCH AlienDMM TCU/FCUMetolius TCU/FCUClog CamHB QuadamRobot CamWired BlissSplitterTrango Flex CamOcun Metal JacketOther

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Posted

Erik – For now ignore type of climbing and just think of frequency. You and I must think alike because the follow up was going to be to take the top two or three and set up sub-polls asking what type of climbing the user primarily participated in.

Posted

yeah i would say a healthy mix of camalots and friends fro cragging. with the emphesis on camalots....they give a sketched out leader a little more leeway with desperate placements.

 

but alpine mos def the friends.

 

 

Posted

ATOMIC

 

YUP THE WEIGHT.

 

I USED TO BE A CAMALOT FLAG WAVER, BUT I HAVE LEARNED.

 

#4 FRIEND IS MY BEST FRIEND. AND I PREFER THE RIGID OVER THE TECH FRIENDS. I HAVE A #4 FRIEND, #3.5 AND #3. OTHER THEN THAT I CARRY WC SPECTRA HEXES for hand size pieces. tho i will alway love the bd #1 and the .5 IT IS RAD TO PLACE A HEX ON A HARD ALPINE PITCH!!!!

 

 

Posted

Interesting about the camelots. I've just recently picked up a few. They're beautiful machines, but seem like a lot to carry for what you get, at least in the alpine. For trad cragging, so far I've been impressed, though.

 

I have a bunch of Friends, which I've always called "flexible", and I assume those are the "tech friends"? I usually take a couple into the alpine, but I really prefer passive pieces in most of those situations. Nothing like metal wedged in stone when things get hairy....

 

Never really thought about the rigid ones, but I'll have to revisit that one.

Posted
bunglehead said:

Metolius cams are good. I like mine anyway. I would agree that for a gripped leader, a Camalot is better, due to the expanded range.

 

NONONONONONONON. Metulius sucks ass. The stems are too short, it's hard to place them and harder to remove them. Horrible, horrible.

Posted

I dig WC forged friends

Just my 2 cents worth:

They are:

*light

*predictable loading -great for when you are pumped

*last forever

*patented cam angle that is unmathced (bd had to build a 2 axle unit ).

*stable don't walk as much as metoluis or cc alliens

*Numbered in a way that makes sense

*Cheap - I just pro dealed a #4 for 18 bucks. The list price is $29!

*Huge expansion range (2nd only to bd)

* The hortizontal edge is issue is almost never a problem. You can bury the unit deep enough if you need to.

* Easier to clean than flexible units.

* Cams that are fat enough for soft rock types but aren't obscenely fat.

 

We all have strong opinions about our gear.

To each his own.

bigdrink.gif

Posted

Well, that all depends on what's on my rack. Since I'm a tightwad who's been climbing awhile, you'll find a lot of forged friends with repaired triggers there. I've never bought or bootied a costalot, so that's not an option. When it's someone else's rack, I've hardly got a clue what fits where and odds are it will devolve to some kind of a whimperfest with a piece or two in my mouth while I frantically paw through the wad of unfamiliar widgetry dangling from the sling. Now that I think of it, I've pretty much been climbing with the same rack for the last 15 years, and have never been able to shake the original numbering system for Black Diamond (Chouinard back then) stoppers, complete with the 1/2 sizes added later. I have successfully integrated my first alien into my gear thought process though, so old dogs can learn new tricks.

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