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catbirdseat

The Tooth is turning into a sport route

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You don't need gear for the route, just sling the trees and horns! I like having a #1 and #2 for the climb. Nothing else is needed.

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What's funny is that by 11:47 last night Colin probably just scored himself two cams and a nut!

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After having climbed the Tooth maybe 10 x's in all conditions, a buddy and I solo'd it a couple of weeks ago. (first solo) It was one of the funnest times I've had in the mtn's in a long while. We took a double 9/16 sling for a harness, a 37 m. ice floss and a locking biner each for the rap's. Running up/down the trail, doing the whole route in about 15 min., back to the car in 4 hrs. Wouldn't want to make a habit of soloing but I can see why people would. Ingall's next?

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The first time I climbed the Tooth an old school bad ass pulled the rack from his pack.. half a dozzen slings and a single small cam.. then I wondered ... am I about to climb with some oldschooler with more balls than brains? It turned out that for him it was the perfect rack. He had climbed the tooth every year for the last 27 years. Soloed it a number of times. He is a a real stud and he'd never try to tell ya he is.. He lets his actions speak... BTW isn't it just wealth redistribution when large wallet, large rack gumbies leave their gear on moderate routes? Just to be plucked from the stone later by someone with a little more time and a nut tool.... wink.gif

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minx said:

erik-

 

again, yellowsleep.gif i'm not making fun of anyone. what i don't get is how so many pieces are getting stuck on that 3rd pitch. if it's going to continue to gobble gear no one is going to need/get to place anything to do that pitch.

 

i think that's a great route for someone to do a first alpine style lead. it just seems odd to me that all of a sudden there is 3 fixed pieces on the 3rd pitch. confused.gif

 

 

My friend Mr Joe Retard just climbed the tooth, so maybe he couldn't figure out how to remove his pro. It sounds like to me you enjoy making fun of the mentally handicapped.

 

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bcollins said:

After having climbed the Tooth maybe 10 x's in all conditions, a buddy and I solo'd it a couple of weeks ago. (first solo) It was one of the funnest times I've had in the mtn's in a long while. We took a double 9/16 sling for a harness, a 37 m. ice floss and a locking biner each for the rap's. Running up/down the trail, doing the whole route in about 15 min., back to the car in 4 hrs. Wouldn't want to make a habit of soloing but I can see why people would. Ingall's next?

 

Hey if you want any company on Ingalls I was thinking about running up it sometime soon. That route looks like it would be a real nice easy solo.

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I'd be into doin' that witcha Kenny. While we are at it, we should tag da Norf Ridge on Stewy, eh?

fruit.gif

I'll call ya when I get back to SEA town.

 

 

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Alpinfox said:

I'd be into doin' that witcha Kenny. While we are at it, we should tag da Norf Ridge on Stewy, eh?

fruit.gif

I'll call ya when I get back to SEA town.

 

 

Otay for Ingals go up for scramble type thing. I want to do Stewart again this year but want to wait a little later for little more unseasonable conditions just to get a different feel for the mountain. Definitely give me a call once you get back.

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Sorry. Lost as usual. I've always done the third "pitch" as a scramble. Are the pieces on the second or fourth? Maybe longer ropes and only three pitches? From the past: ten years ago, cam stuck on second pitch, three years ago, cam stuck on final pitch. Last summer cam stuck on last pitch. I thought it was just a good way to relieve onself of extraneous used gear. cantfocus.gif

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Cpt.Caveman said:

I am hoping I can take advantage of the next post offering for free gear. fruit.gif

 

On Saturday, there was a TCU stuck behind the flake before the blank traverse on Princely Ambitions (where I place a yellow Alien). I tried to score the booty while on lead but couldn't work it out one-handed, and it was getting dark... You can't reach it on rappel, so it would be best for the follower to muck with it.

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remlec said:

Sorry. Lost as usual. I've always done the third "pitch" as a scramble. Are the pieces on the second or fourth? Maybe longer ropes and only three pitches? From the past: ten years ago, cam stuck on second pitch, three years ago, cam stuck on final pitch. Last summer cam stuck on last pitch. I thought it was just a good way to relieve onself of extraneous used gear. cantfocus.gif

I was referring to the last pitch, which would be the fourth pitch if you count the scramble third pitch, which I don't.

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catbirdseat said:

remlec said:

Sorry. Lost as usual. I've always done the third "pitch" as a scramble. Are the pieces on the second or fourth? Maybe longer ropes and only three pitches? From the past: ten years ago, cam stuck on second pitch, three years ago, cam stuck on final pitch. Last summer cam stuck on last pitch. I thought it was just a good way to relieve onself of extraneous used gear. cantfocus.gif

I was referring to the last pitch, which would be the fourth pitch if you count the scramble third pitch, which I don't.

 

Let's get techno- It's all one pitch.

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