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Posted

Yo...greg, matt and neversummer...good times yesterday...

 

greg soiled himself, but enjoyed getting dirty (more laundry)

matt enjoyed himself

and NS got a new project!

 

Good times good times...except for Josh cratering from +30feet up...luck was with him though...

 

Don't bother flaming me...i'm outta here in 2 hours for Montana...be back next week...

 

Later Punters!

Rudy

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Posted

Rudy is right, GregW soiled himself by chasing bolts in North Bend yesterday. After easily scampering up a 6-bolt pseudo masterpiece where every bolt was within a foot of a perfect crack, he moaned, "I feel so dirty, I just don't know....I think I suck."

 

And those sport climbers! What a bunch of wimps. There was a crowd of at least 20 on Launch Ledge, and all of them were young and fit. There lay in seige, stringing ropes and draws up and down the cliff, bringing just about everything down to their level. It was disgusting to watch them pull down on those desecrated features that used to be a cliff, making 5.12 and 5.13 look easy. And when Josh fell forty feet to the ground, they were worried that he might have gotten hurt. Sheesh.

Posted

hellno3d.gif I went through 3 bars of soap and two hot-water heaters full of water just to feel clean. Somehow my soul still feels tarnished (I know, the fact that I HAVE a soul is a shock to most of you).

 

Those scrawny sportos don't have enough fat on their bodies to survive a decent mountain epic. hellno3d.gifyellaf.gif They'll die early and I'll survive by feasting on their flesh.

 

Josh falling put a damper on the day right from the start, but reinforced the fact that there are still dangers in "guaranteed outcome climbing" (i.e., sportclimbing). Several errors caused Josh's accident; I'm sure his belayer will NEVER make them again. Homeboy walked out under his own power, though; which shocked the shit out of me. bigdrink.gif

Posted
Dru said:

"The whole point of climbing is 40 foot groundfalls" tongue.gif

 

Don't know what your point is, Dru, but after watching that one I really don't see humor in whatever it is that you are trying to say. Josh was very fucking lucky, that is all.

Posted

I believe it happened because they were using a rope that had recently been shortened, and it wasn't long enough to lower him from the anchors. There were lots of people standing about, and I bet the belayer was somewhat distracted by this; they apparently assumed it was long enough and didn't notice when the end ran through the gris-gris. It was another accident like the one that caused the death of David Gunstone a month ago that reminds me of how complacent we all get when we are sport climbing and top-roping and we get used to the idea that the whole thing is pretty much set up already.

Posted (edited)
b-rock said:

well, so how'd it happen?

 

Well, RumR can speak to the specific nature of the route that this happened on (I don't remember the name), but here goes. Josh was being lowered off of a climb from fairly high on the route (don't think he made the chains, but not sure). Anyway, due to the nature of the wall (WWI Wall), he was hanging out in space beyond Launch Ledge. This pitch is 35-m+ (this is an approximation based on RumR's knowledge) and it sounds like the safest thing to do is hit an intermediate anchor and continue to lower from there. Anyway, this was not done. As Josh came close to level with the ledge, the rope ran out and ran through his belayer's GRIGRI (NOT a foolproof device, people, engage brain) and he plummeted to the forest floor below (about 30-40', as Matt said). Later it was discovered that the owner of the rope had had to cut a chunk off at some point, reducing it from it's factory length of 70-m. I could be wrong, but this rope belonged to neither Josh nor his belayer (RumR can confirm this). It was a pretty social scene until that moment which could have led to the belayer's further distraction from the main focus of getting his partner down safely.

 

Glaring circumstances which contributed to the cause of this accident:

 

1. Belayer unfamiliar with the rope he is using (speculation until RumR confirms ownership of the rope).

2. Social distractions of belayer

3. Skipped threading and lowering off of intermediate anchor which would guarantee plenty of rope to reach the ledge safely.

4. No knot tied in the end of the rope to prevent accidental feed through belay device.

 

Greg_W

Edited by Greg_W
Posted

you just broke down the incident so well and that coupled with your insider's knowledge in the heavy construction industry, i though you may have stepped up for some continuing education classes. but i guess i was wrong!

 

 

Posted
erik said:

you just broke down the incident so well and that coupled with your insider's knowledge in the heavy construction industry, i though you may have stepped up for some continuing education classes. but i guess i was wrong!

 

 

Nope, just done some accident investigations here and there throughout my career. Thanks for the compliment, though; I'm still not putting out. wink.gif

Posted

It is also like an OSHA analysit to mis-use the word "mitigate." The word means "to make milder or less severe." A mitigating factor in this case would perhaps be the fact that he apparently landed on his feet rather than his head. The factor's Greg cited were contributory factors and could only be construted as "mitigating" facors if we were talking about how the belayer was "at fault." But Greg would never talk about that because he thinks our society is too litigeous and people should take responsibility for theirselves and that, if Josh had been hurt, it would not have been right to try to hold somebody else responsible. Right Greg?

Posted (edited)
mattp said:

It is also like an OSHA analysit to mis-use the word "mitigate." The word means "to make milder or less severe." A mitigating factor in this case would perhaps be the fact that he apparently landed on his feet rather than his head. The factor's Greg cited were contributory factors and could only be construted as "mitigating" facors if we were talking about how the belayer was "guilty." But Greg would never talk about that because he thinks our society is too litigeous and people should take responsibility for theirselves and that, if Josh had been hurt, it would not have been right to try to hold somebody else responsible. Right Greg?

 

Oops, should have consulted Webster's there. Actually, no, Matt, I think the belayer was at fault , as was the climber; the leader should have known what was up with the rope he was climbing on. Both individuals, in my view, made errors which led to the fall. I will edit my post above to replace 'mitigate'.

Edited by Greg_W
Posted
Greg_W said:

Dru said:

"The whole point of climbing is 40 foot groundfalls" tongue.gif

 

Don't know what your point is, Dru, but after watching that one I really don't see humor in whatever it is that you are trying to say. Josh was very fucking lucky, that is all.

 

josh likes to make statements about what the whole point of climbing is.... its a new one for his collection boxing_smiley.gif

Posted

I misused the word "guilty." That refers to criminal responsibility, not civil. The more correct term would be "at fault." I edited my post to replace "guilty." Where are the proofreaders when you need them?

Posted
Dru said:

Greg_W said:

Dru said:

"The whole point of climbing is 40 foot groundfalls" tongue.gif

 

Don't know what your point is, Dru, but after watching that one I really don't see humor in whatever it is that you are trying to say. Josh was very fucking lucky, that is all.

 

josh likes to make statements about what the whole point of climbing is.... its a new one for his collection boxing_smiley.gif

 

Didn't know you knew him (he doesn't post on the .com).

Posted
Dru said:

 

josh likes to make statements about what the whole point of climbing is.... its a new one for his collection boxing_smiley.gif

 

It's a different Josh, geek. rolleyes.gifGeek_em8.gifhahaha.gifthe_finger.gif

Posted
Greg_W said:

Dru said:

Greg_W said:

Dru said:

"The whole point of climbing is 40 foot groundfalls" tongue.gif

 

Don't know what your point is, Dru, but after watching that one I really don't see humor in whatever it is that you are trying to say. Josh was very fucking lucky, that is all.

 

josh likes to make statements about what the whole point of climbing is.... its a new one for his collection boxing_smiley.gif

 

Didn't know you knew him (he doesn't post on the .com).

 

blush.gif oh I thought this was smartass JoshK we were discussing. sorry josh. nice to hear you OK thumbs_up.gif

no sorry to joshk boxing_smiley.gif punk ass beyotch! wave.gif

Posted
Dru said:

blush.gif oh I thought this was smartass JoshK we were discussing. sorry josh. nice to hear you OK thumbs_up.gif

no sorry to joshk boxing_smiley.gif punk ass beyotch! wave.gif

 

Wow, the concept of Dru calling somebody else a smartass, that's classic. hahaha.gifcantfocus.gif

Posted
JoshK said:

Dru said:

blush.gif oh I thought this was smartass JoshK we were discussing. sorry josh. nice to hear you OK thumbs_up.gif

no sorry to joshk boxing_smiley.gif punk ass beyotch! wave.gif

 

Wow, the concept of Dru calling somebody else a smartass, that's classic. hahaha.gifcantfocus.gif

 

Yeah, about as strange as you saying something intelligent. confused.gifmadgo_ron.gifthe_finger.gif

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