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Lowell_Skoog

More North Cascades trivia

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five peaks with evocative names, one of them Fred's first first ascent.

 

Despair Triumph Terror Fury and "The Blob" tongue.gif

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Terror, Inspiration, Fury, Despair, Triumph

 

Good, you got two of them:

 

"hopelessness" = Despair (Fred's 1st first ascent, in 1939)

"success" = Triumph

 

Still looking for "evil" and "inaccessible". And for the peak whose sub-range was renamed by Fred Beckey.

 

(Hint: Don't forget that the North Cascades extend all the way down to Stevens Pass...)

Edited by Lowell_Skoog

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Forbidden Peak would be another by Lloyd and Fred

 

Right on.

 

"inaccessible" = Forbidden.

 

(Remember, we're looking for Lloyd Anderson's first ascents, not Fred's. Fred was on Despair and Forbidden, but not the others.)

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Here is some more NOCA trivia... which mountains in the North Cascades are named for places in the Lord of the Rings books by Tolkien? (There are at least three that are close together geographically that i know of)

 

Who started the original "cascade trivia" with this first question?

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Sinister

Lloyd did it on May 29, 1939,, with Clint Kelley and Jim Crooks wave.gif

 

Yup.

 

"evil" = Sinister.

 

The fifth peak has a name that was formerly applied to the entire sub-range where it resides. That sub-range was renamed by Fred Beckey in his Cascade Alpine Guide.

 

This peak has a striking north couloir that was first skied by Andreas Schmidt in the 1990s. (If you know where to look, this clue is a giveaway.)

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Here is some more NOCA trivia... which mountains in the North Cascades are named for places in the Lord of the Rings books by Tolkien? (There are at least three that are close together geographically that i know of)

 

Who started the original "cascade trivia" with this first question?

 

I wrote that, but didn't start the thread... 10/15/03. wave.gif

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This peak has a striking north couloir that was first skied by Andreas Schmidt in the 1990s. (If you know where to look, this clue is a giveaway.)

 

Tenpeak.

 

Looks like a stellar ski. Has anyone repeated the ski of the north couloir yet?

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Tenpeak.

 

Looks like a stellar ski. Has anyone repeated the ski of the north couloir yet?

 

Not that I know of.

 

So, Lloyd Anderson's first ascents in the North Cascades include:

 

Triumph ("victory," 7/31/38)

Sinister ("evil," 5/29/39)

Despair ("helplessness", 7/2/39)

Forbidden ("inaccessible", 6/1/40)

Tenpeak (9/21/40, in the Dakobed Range, previously called the Tenpeak Range)

 

One of the things I like best about history is discovering connections between people. In this trivia, I believe there is a hidden connection betweeen Lloyd Anderson, Fred Beckey, and three of the peaks in the list--Sinister, Tenpeak, and Forbidden.

 

The link is Dwight Watson.

 

In 1936, Dwight Watson spent most of the summer rambling around the North Cascades. In July he hiked from Miners Ridge through the Hanging Gardens to the head of the Chickamin Glacier next to Sinister Peak with Hermann Ulrichs.

 

He continued his rambles to Stehekin and over Cascade Pass, where he admired the view of Eldorado and Hidden Lake Peaks. The following spring, Watson made the first venture on skis into the Hidden Lake Peak area. From there he had excellent views of Forbidden Peak, as yet unclimbed and unnamed.

 

A year later, with Paul Flint, he hiked around the Dakobed (Tenpeak) Range, which is very attractive from Miners Ridge.

 

On April 14, 1940, Anderson, Beckey, and Watson made the first attempt to climb Forbidden Peak. (Anderson, Beckey and others returned on June 1 to complete the climb.) This is the only time in North Cascades history where Dwight Watson can be found attempting a technical first ascent. I think he was along because he knew the country best. My guess is that Watson also told Lloyd Anderson about the country around Sinister and Tenpeak, and Lloyd, being an ambitious peak bagger, went in and made the first ascents. Dwight Watson was never very interested in first ascents, being happy just to visit wild country, especially on skis. Watson was also a friend of Fred Beckey's father, so he may have had something to do with Beckey and Anderson getting together. Sadly, when Watson returned to Seattle from the Forbidden Peak attempt, he read in the newspaper that his good friend Sigurd Hall had been killed in the Silver Skis race on Mt Rainier.

 

Nobody guessed Lloyd Anderson's important climb in the B.C. interior. That was the South Tower of Howser Spire in the Bugaboos, with Helmy Beckey, Lyman Boyer, and Tom Campbell in 1941. He may have done more first ascents in the North Cascades, but I can't think of any. I'm sure Harry Majors would know.

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Okay, I'll dangle some trivia. This is a multi-part question. Each subsequent question is more specific than the previous, and therefore more difficult to answer.

 

A> What peak in the Cascades has a name connoting the swan?

B> What was the correct spelling for it, since corrupted to the current spelling?

C> What was the language of the word (using the correct spelling)?

D> Who applied the name? (name the person)

 

The answers are availabe online but you have to know where to look.

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Here is some more NOCA trivia... which mountains in the North Cascades are named for places in the Lord of the Rings books by Tolkien? (There are at least three that are close together geographically that i know of)

 

Who started the original "cascade trivia" with this first question?

 

I did... 10/15/03. wave.gif

 

 

Wrong, and I forgot when I did. Never knew there would be that much trivia. Cool stuff to browse through. Thanks lowell as you seem to be much informed. thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif

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In researching Gunsight in the CAG I noted that Lloyd also did the FA of that peak on July 3, 1938, with Lyman Boyer and Agnes Dickert.

wave.gif

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He may have done more first ascents in the North Cascades, but I can't think of any.

 

I happened upon a list of Lloyd Anderson's first ascents in the North Cascades. For the record, here they are:

 

1938: Thornton, Triumph

1939: Sinister, Gunsight, Blizzard, Despair

1940: Forbidden, Klawatti, Dorado Needle, Ten Peak

 

A nice bag of peaks!

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Did Lage (in 1925) precede Lloyd on Blizzard?

 

Could one of Lloyd Anderson’s FAs (with a different name then) be an answer (now) to one of Klenke’s questions?

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Klenke, I have been searching for two weeks for the answers to your trivia questions. I have look through Becky's books and searched the web. Then I figured the answers must be on your web site smile.gif

 

Answers to Klenke trivia questions are;

 

Found and taken from John Roper wonderful web site.

 

 

Glaciologist Dick Hubley was so impressed with the icy white blanket here that he applied the Chinook name "Kahloke" for "swan" to this glacier. Austin Post "polished" Kaloke a bit to the "more unique and attractive Klawatti ."

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Very good, EJohnson. I'm astounded by your perseverance. 2 weeks! My use of "corrupted" is out of date. Roper slightly changed his Klawatti caption after I offered up the trivia question.

 

Here is the source (bottom of page).

 

But one thing vexes me. You say I have a website. I don't have a website. However, maybe there's someone out there operating a Klenke Shrine site. I wouldn't be surprised. grin.gif

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But one thing vexes me. You say I have a website. I don't have a website. However, maybe there's someone out there operating a Klenke Shrine site. I wouldn't be surprised. grin.gif

 

I think he meant John Roper's website.. rolleyes.gif

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Here's one for you Klenke.

 

Take away the first 2 letters of the first peak.

Reverse the letters which matches the last 2 letter in the 2nd half of the second peak which uses what is left after removing the first 2 letters from the first peak to make up the name of the first half of the second peak.

What are the 2 peaks?

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Actually, it's quite easy. So as to not give it away to others: the answer is two peaks in NCNP quite close to each other, the shorter is about 430 feet lower than the taller.

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Ahhh.... very good and it only took you 2 hours.

How about another one.

 

2 peaks. Swap one letter between the 2 and spell each of them backwards and you get the same peaks. Just swapped.

??

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