Darrington bluegrass festival and crags

[dryad]

I've never been to either and would like to go one day this weekend. Anyone want to check them out with me?

 

Beta would be appreciated too. What are some nice moderate routes?

[allthumbs]

Maybe. Send picture and resume.

[atomic]

Bluegrass beta: standard 5-string banjo tuning is G-D-G-B-D. Standards include Cripple Creek and Old Joe Clark. Always be ready to crank Foggy Mountain Breakdown, especially after the fourth beer.

 

Better talk to someone else about the climbing routes.

[Fence_Sitter]

Better talk to someone else about the climbing routes.

 

mattp would be a good one for starters.

[Alpinfox]

 

I have also never been to either. (FOR SHAME!)

 

From: http://www.mountainwerks.org/alexk/climb/longmoderates.htm

 

Three O'Clock Rock - Silent Running

What It Is:Silent Running is a 7-pitch classic steep granite slab climb on Three O'Clock Rock.

What Can I Expect:Classic, casual climbing on a very well-protected route, recently retro-bolted, up to 5.9.

Where Its At:Its at Three O'Clock Rock, a large granite dome South of Darrington, WA, about an hour and a half drive North and a little East of Seattle.

What You Need:Quickdraws and one or two small TCUs for good measure.

Season:March through October.

More Information:Both Jim Nelson and Jeff Smoot cover this route in their guidebooks. Jim Nelson's pictures are mislabeled, but his topos are correct. Smoots topos are not as detailed, but once on route you wont need topos.

 

Others:

 

The first tooth on Comb Buttress has a two-pitch bolted 5.8.

 

Dreamer looks awesome! ten-pitch 5.9!

 

MattP's website has lots of great beta:

http://www.seanet.com/~mattp/Darr/

 

I'm interested in heading out there this weekend.

[Fence_Sitter]

(FOR SHAME!)

 

did you just say for shame? oh man... i can only assume you have a limp wrist and lisp too

[Greg_W]

Alpinfox said:

 

I have also never been to either. (FOR SHAME!)

More Information:Both Jim Nelson and Jeff Smoot cover this route in their guidebooks. Jim Nelson's pictures are mislabeled, but his topos are correct. Smoots topos are not as detailed, but once on route you wont need topos.

 

Others:

 

The first tooth on Comb Buttress has a two-pitch bolted 5.8.

 

Dreamer looks awesome! ten-pitch 5.9!

 

MattP's website has lots of great beta:

http://www.seanet.com/~mattp/Darr/

 

I'm interested in heading out there this weekend.

 

Man, if you've never been there don't comment. NEVER, EVER mention Jeff Smoot and Darrington topos in the same sentence unless the word "shitty" or "suck ass" are included. The only topos to trust are the ones you can download and print form Mattp's website. We climbed the first two pitches of "Til Broad Daylight" and then linked up with "The Kone" for a nice 4 pitch outing that is slightly easier than "Silent Runnings" (I've climbed S.R., as well). This would be a good intro to Darrington climbing. Silent Runnings takes a slight bit of route finding, not much, but why not start on something slightly easier to get comfortable with the area? See the topo here:

Arch Area Topo

 

Good luck, Dryad, I hope you go. Darrington is awesome; go once, and you'll be back.

[Alpinfox]

Hey GregW,

First of all, I didn't mention Smoot, or his topos, the website I quoted did. And furthermore, it mentioned that they weren't very good. Second, why shouldn't I "comment" about Darrington if I've never been there? I guess its really stupid of me to say such uninformed and clueless things as "Dreamer looks awesome!" Yeah, I really fucked up there.

 

 

You and FencePoleSitter are pricks who enjoy being antagonistic. (though I do appreciate the beta you provided)

[Fence_Sitter]

Alpinfox said:

Hey GregW,

First of all, I didn't mention Smoot, or his topos, the website I quoted did. And furthermore, it mentioned that they weren't very good. Second, why shouldn't I "comment" about Darrington if I've never been there? I guess its really stupid of me to say such uninformed and clueless things as "Dreamer looks awesome!" Yeah, I really fucked up there.

 

 

You and FencePoleSitter are pricks who enjoy being antagonistic. (though I do appreciate the beta you provided)

 

pussy

[Greg_W]

Alpinfox said:

Hey GregW,

First of all, I didn't mention Smoot, or his topos, the website I quoted did. And furthermore, it mentioned that they weren't very good. Second, why shouldn't I "comment" about Darrington if I've never been there? I guess its really stupid of me to say such uninformed and clueless things as "Dreamer looks awesome!" Yeah, I really fucked up there.

 

 

You and FencePoleSitter are pricks who enjoy being antagonistic. (though I do appreciate the beta you provided)

 

I'm not being antagonistic, I'm trying to make sure Dryad gets good, firsthand information. Not some second-hand info. someone kiped from someone else's website. Do you always blindly pass on advice and information to others? If YOU don't know, why would you endorse information you have no way of confirming? It's irresponsible.

 

You're just another beta-whore, who sits on their ass waiting for climbers who have the gumption to go out and do the shit to spoonfeed it to you. People like you are the main reason I don't post TR's on the shit I do.

[Fence_Sitter]

beta whore

 

master beta

[Alpinfox]

 

In addition to providing links to and quotes of beta (passing along second hand beta), I have written many TRs and answered questions about lots of routes including (most recently) Liberty Ridge and Mt. Olympus.

 

When I quote guidebooks or websites, I always reveal my source and say whether I have personally done the route. There is nothing wrong with that. You (GregW) just quoted MattP's website, just like I did.

 

Dryad said she had never been to Darrington and was interested in checking it out. I also have never been there and am interested in checking it out and listed the moderate climbs I'm interested in, along with some beta and sources that she might not have been aware of.

 

I don't get you guys...

 

 

 

 

[Fence_Sitter]

Alpinfox said:

 

In addition to providing links to and quotes of beta (passing along second hand beta), I have written many TRs and answered questions about lots of routes including (most recently) Liberty Ridge and Mt. Olympus.

 

When I quote guidebooks or websites, I always reveal my source and say whether I have personally done the route. There is nothing wrong with that. You (GregW) just quoted MattP's website, just like I did.

 

Dryad said she had never been to Darrington and was interested in checking it out. I also have never been there and am interested in checking it out and listed the moderate climbs I'm interested in, along with some beta and sources that she might not have been aware of.

 

I don't get you guys...

 

 

 

 

well hommes... ya said mattp's website had good beta (it does) but how do you know?

 

and

 

is this what you mean by answering questions?

[AlpineK]

Alpinfox,

 

I'm going to have to agree with FS and GW. If you've never been there then posting 3rd hand info is totally lame.

 

Go climb some stuff.

[Alpinfox]

Fence_Sitter said:

 

is this what you mean by answering questions?

 

Yup. I clearly stated that I was speculating about that beta up to treeline, but that from my observations of Mt. Tom last week, it would be straightforward above there. He/she didn't get anything more useful from anyone else.

 

Here is an example of my first-hand beta (Olympus)

 

And another (Liberty Ridge)

 

Passing information along would only be lame if I claimed I had checked it all out when I hadn't. Giving someone a URL is NOT irresponsible nor is speculating about a climb/route (as long as I clearly state I'm speculating). The person reviewing the beta must then decide for themselves if it's worth trusting.

 

Caveat Emptor

 

[mattp]

Dryad-

 

Three O'Clock Rock is definitely the place to go for a first trip to Darrington.

 

The climb, "Under the Board Walk," reported by Jim Nelson in Select Climbs II, is a good choice for a first climb at Darrington. It is rather trivial, though, and you'd probably want to do more than that if you head up there.

 

For a second climb, GregW recommends a great Darrington 4-pitch outing. From the bottom of Boardwalk, climb/crawl up and right 50 yards to reach the start of "Till Broad Daylight," with a couple of button heads visible perhaps 20 feet and 30 feet off the ground. Take the first three pitches of Daylight, and then the last three pitches of "The Comb." The whole thing is 5.8 or 5.9, depending on how you do the linkup (the third "crux" of The Comb that is shown as 5.9 on my topo is really 5.8). This climb is both well-protected and clean. You can link pitches however you want, and we did it as 4 pitches on Saturday. The last two pitches are very diagonal; from the top of the climb, rappell the route called Tidbits. This is a good, moderate outing.

 

Topo already linked above

 

Another good moderate is the Big Tree route, the left-hand variant (5.7). Towards the top, where you see bolts heading up and right, follow them to the chains. Rappel from there - don't bother with the Big Tree itself. Silent Running is also a very good choice for a first climb up there, but a little harder (5.9+ unless you do the last pitch that was never part of the original climb, 5.10b). Silent Running has some stout runouts on it, though.

 

North Buttress - slightly easier to hike to than South Buttress

 

 

 

[AlpineK]

When I click on both the links all I get is a message saying, "We can not proceed."

 

Untill you give further proof I say you're a spewer and not a provider of beta.

[Alpinfox]

AlpineK said:

 

Go climb some stuff.

 

I have. I'm having my best season yet! Lots of alpine rock, a bit of mountaineering, it's been grand.

 

[Alpinfox]

AlpineK said:

When I click on both the links all I get is a message saying, "We can not proceed."

 

Untill you give further proof I say you're a spewer and not a provider of beta.

 

I think I fixed it... try now.

[Greg_W]

Alpinfox said:

There is nothing wrong with that. You (GregW) just quoted MattP's website, just like I did.

 

Dryad said she had never been to Darrington and was interested in checking it out. I also have never been there and am interested in checking it out and listed the moderate climbs I'm interested in, along with some beta and sources that she might not have been aware of.

 

Yes, I quoted Mattp's website. The difference is that I KNOW Matt's info is good; I have climbed with him and talked to him about the area. My problem with your post is that Dryad was looking for accurate information; you posted something you did not confirm the validity of. My personal opinion is that if someone is new to an area and looking for information, it's important that they get GOOD, ACCURATE information.

 

Greg

[Alpinfox]

GregW,

Have you climbed EVERYTHING on MattP's website? Personally verified the location of ALL of the bolts, ALL of the ratings, ALL of the topos on the site?

 

I'm sure you haven't. However, it's still obvious to both of us that it is a great website with lots of great information that isn't available elsewhere.

 

I think your point about not passing on second-hand beta has some validity, though not in this case. If I told someone from memory, "there is this climb located at so-and-so and I think it is an easy, well-protected 5.8" when in fact it's a rotten, run-out, difficult-to-retreat-from 5.11, that would be unfortunate and potentially irresponsible. However, essentially HANDING THEM THE GUIDEBOOK (i.e. giving them a URL) is NOT IRRESPONSIBLE. I'm giving them the primary source based upon which they can make their own decisions.

 

 

Incidentally, here is a link to the Darrington Bluegrass Festival *

 

*The views and information expressed at this website are not mine and may be goofy, stupid, just plain wrong, or possibly offensive to various parties. I HAVE NOT met all the people in these bands and can not confirm that they actually play the instruments they say they do, nor can I confirm that the music at the festival will by true-bluegrass THEY MIGHT SNEAK SOME COUNTRY OR (EEEEK!) FOLK MUSIC in there. Remember, attending music festivals is serious business they may get your drunk, entertained, or even hooked on the banjo! Use this information at your own risk.

 

 

[Mr._Natural]

I will be attending the festival look for a banjo player with serious limp and a bottle in hand.

[mattp]

Fox and Greg

what are you arguing about? "I'm an idiot, no you are ... "

 

Alex's list of "long moderates" is as good as anybody else's tick list, and as far as his description of Silent Running, I agree with him -- except that he fails to make any mention of the fact that there are a couple of 50 foot runouts (albeit, on easier terrain so I wouldn't say he is completely inaccurate to state that the route is well-protected).

 

Greg is right, however, that Fox is not doing Dryad a favor where he looks at the Smoot guide and points out that "there is a two pitch 5.8 on the Comb." (I am only guessing that is what he did.) The good climbs on The Comb are all or pretty much all in the 5.10-5.11 range (there may be a good .12, too).

 

The other "moderate" Fox mentions, Dreamer, is only 5.9 and it is very well-protected. But it also has a moderately taxing approach, it is moderately long, moderately complex, and the descent can be a moderate pain-in-the-ass. For comparison, it is a more demanding outing than Outer Space, which most moderate climbers think is NOT moderate.

[shapp]

I'll be up at Darrington on Saturday, if anyone wants to hook up PM me. I would like to go do some climbing on the West Buttress routes of blueberry hill. If that is too large for your first go, 3 oclock is all right too. Feel the stoke!

[nolanr]

Bluegrass ! Well, w/out the drums and electrified instrumentation. But it still rocks. Bill Monroe, the Godfather of the genre, penned a tune "Whitehorse Rag" after a visit to the Darrington festival and the inspiring view of the peak of the same name from the stage.