Greg_W Posted July 15, 2003 Posted July 15, 2003 thelawgoddess said: personally, i think that if you're choosing a route that is traditionally overrun with newbies you should give them a little respect. ask them if you can pass if you really feel the need, but don't be assholes. and don't rush people either. it's fucked up. Get a clue, there, tootsie. Quote
thelawgoddess Posted July 15, 2003 Posted July 15, 2003 Greg_W said: Get a clue, there, tootsie. whatever. Quote
Alpinfox Posted July 15, 2003 Posted July 15, 2003 fern said: I think the total distance of quality climbing on St. Vitus, Calculus etc. is the same as on Diedre, just the pitch count is different. Diedre has >50% vertical gain over ho-hum climbing and only 2 quality pitches IMO. I thought there was about 1.5 cool pitches on Calculus Crack, though the baseline ledge approach pitches are unique (tree/rock climbing). I had to wait a LONG time on CC for a slow group of three. I think Diedre has more like 3 cool pitches. I really enjoyed Banana Peel (just right of Diedre) the one time I did that one. Oh yeah, Rock On is a cool one too, though beware of wetness on the last pitch. Haven't climbed St.Vitus Dance, but it is on my list. Handjams! Quote
Greg_W Posted July 15, 2003 Posted July 15, 2003 thelawgoddess said: Greg_W said: Get a clue, there, tootsie. why you gotta be an ass? Sweetie, your post assumes that I'm an ass at the crags. You've never climbed with me, so how would you know? I'm just calling you on the carpet. You wanna throw down, we can brawl in the alley behind the Kort Haus. I'm not afraid of you youngsters. Quote
Alpinfox Posted July 15, 2003 Posted July 15, 2003 fern said: Alpinfox said: Handjams! sez who? Kevin McLane. "A fine climb which offers 3 sustained pitches of hand jamming". You disagree? Fill me in. Quote
erik Posted July 15, 2003 Posted July 15, 2003 Alpinfox said: fern said: Alpinfox said: Handjams! sez who? Kevin McLane. "A fine climb which offers 3 sustained pitches of hand jamming". You disagree? Fill me in. NO...NO... NO... ITS ALL GOOD MY FRIEND. ENJOY AND DONT FORGET THE 3.5 FRIEND! Quote
Greg_W Posted July 15, 2003 Posted July 15, 2003 erik said: Alpinfox said: fern said: Alpinfox said: Handjams! sez who? Kevin McLane. "A fine climb which offers 3 sustained pitches of hand jamming". You disagree? Fill me in. NO...NO... NO... ITS ALL GOOD MY FRIEND. ENJOY AND DONT FORGET THE 3.5 FRIEND! The dude is a fucking wealth of great beta Quote
AlpineK Posted July 15, 2003 Author Posted July 15, 2003 fern said: Alpinfox said: Handjams! sez who? There are lots of hand jams on St Vitus Quote
erik Posted July 15, 2003 Posted July 15, 2003 Alpinfox said: A little wide eh? I DUNNO, ASK ALPINEK HE HANGS OUT WITH YOUR MOM! Quote
Dru Posted July 15, 2003 Posted July 15, 2003 solo diedre late in the day just before you go home c 7Pm in summer and see if any bumblies left booty behind. round trip from apron parking lot will be about 45 minutes. only down side is it will be hottest then with evening sun and a days worth of gumby spooge on the holds.. Quote
Greg_W Posted July 15, 2003 Posted July 15, 2003 Dru said: solo diedre late in the day just before you go home c 7Pm in summer and see if any bumblies left booty behind. round trip from apron parking lot will be about 45 minutes. only down side is it will be hottest then with evening sun and a days worth of gumby spooge on the holds.. I was just thinking of doing it late in the day. How's the walkoff in waning light? Quote
Dru Posted July 15, 2003 Posted July 15, 2003 The best sub 5.10 climb on the apron is SNAKE there are 5 good pitches on that one! Quote
cman Posted July 15, 2003 Posted July 15, 2003 St Vitus slabs in the rain anyways it is good fun to talk about after the fact. nice to meet some cc.comers as well. the drunken teenagers got off easy this time, but we'll be back Quote
chelle Posted July 15, 2003 Posted July 15, 2003 Alpinfox said: A little wide eh? If you're a little person with small hands yep. Fern and I have similar hand sizes... Sometimes #3 camalot placements are too wide for my fists. For me a great handcrack is a tight #2 camalot placement. Quote
Dru Posted July 15, 2003 Posted July 15, 2003 i place #4 camalot on both 1st and 2nd p of st vitus and you could easily place 2 if you took 2. that said i think it's more of a 5.8 route than a 5.9 route, compared to snake or sparrow it feels way more solid. but it is harder than calculus, diedre and banana peel (all basically 5.7s despite the guidebook) Quote
fern Posted July 15, 2003 Posted July 15, 2003 forget about hands ... I've jammed my chest in that climb, bring gear to 38C Quote
AlpineK Posted July 15, 2003 Author Posted July 15, 2003 ....that said i think it's more of a 5.8 route than a 5.9 route,.... The route is a very easy 5.9 Quote
Alpinfox Posted July 15, 2003 Posted July 15, 2003 fern said: forget about hands ... I've jammed my chest in that climb, bring gear to 38C OK. Thanks for the beta folks. Quote
Greg_W Posted July 15, 2003 Posted July 15, 2003 fern said: forget about hands ... I've jammed my chest in that climb, bring gear to 38C Hope it wasn't an underwire day. Ouch!!! Quote
bigwalling Posted July 15, 2003 Posted July 15, 2003 I was talking to someone yesterday that said they don't use their rock shoes on it. Just their approch shoes. So it has to be solid jamming. Quote
Dru Posted July 15, 2003 Posted July 15, 2003 no its just there is nothing you need to wedge toe-tips in. its almost all hands and wider. pretty painful in slippers! Quote
thelawgoddess Posted July 15, 2003 Posted July 15, 2003 fern said: forget about hands ... I've jammed my chest in that climb, bring gear to 38C gonna be an offwidth day for me, i guess. Quote
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