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Posted
thelawgoddess said:

personally, i think that if you're choosing a route that is traditionally overrun with newbies you should give them a little respect. ask them if you can pass if you really feel the need, but don't be assholes. and don't rush people either. it's fucked up.

 

Get a clue, there, tootsie.

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Posted
fern said:

I think the total distance of quality climbing on St. Vitus, Calculus etc. is the same as on Diedre, just the pitch count is different. Diedre has >50% vertical gain over ho-hum climbing and only 2 quality pitches IMO.

 

I thought there was about 1.5 cool pitches on Calculus Crack, though the baseline ledge approach pitches are unique (tree/rock climbing). I had to wait a LONG time on CC for a slow group of three. I think Diedre has more like 3 cool pitches. I really enjoyed Banana Peel (just right of Diedre) the one time I did that one. Oh yeah, Rock On is a cool one too, though beware of wetness on the last pitch.

 

Haven't climbed St.Vitus Dance, but it is on my list. Handjams!

 

 

 

Posted
thelawgoddess said:

Greg_W said:

Get a clue, there, tootsie.

 

why you gotta be an ass? wazzup.gif

 

Sweetie, your post assumes that I'm an ass at the crags. You've never climbed with me, so how would you know? I'm just calling you on the carpet.

 

You wanna throw down, we can brawl in the alley behind the Kort Haus. I'm not afraid of you youngsters. boxing_smiley.gifboxing_smiley.gif

Posted
Alpinfox said:

fern said:

Alpinfox said:

Handjams!

 

sez who? wazzup.gifyellaf.gif

 

Kevin McLane.

"A fine climb which offers 3 sustained pitches of hand jamming".

 

You disagree? Fill me in.

 

NO...NO... NO...

 

ITS ALL GOOD MY FRIEND. ENJOY AND DONT FORGET THE 3.5 FRIEND!

 

hahaha.gif

Posted
erik said:

Alpinfox said:

fern said:

Alpinfox said:

Handjams!

 

sez who? wazzup.gifyellaf.gif

 

Kevin McLane.

"A fine climb which offers 3 sustained pitches of hand jamming".

 

You disagree? Fill me in.

 

NO...NO... NO...

 

ITS ALL GOOD MY FRIEND. ENJOY AND DONT FORGET THE 3.5 FRIEND!

 

hahaha.gif

 

The dude is a fucking wealth of great beta rolleyes.gif

Posted

solo diedre late in the day just before you go home c 7Pm in summer and see if any bumblies left booty behind. round trip from apron thumbs_up.gif parking lot will be about 45 minutes. only down side is it will be hottest then with evening sun and a days worth of gumby spooge on the holds..

Posted
Dru said:

solo diedre late in the day just before you go home c 7Pm in summer and see if any bumblies left booty behind. round trip from apron thumbs_up.gif parking lot will be about 45 minutes. only down side is it will be hottest then with evening sun and a days worth of gumby spooge on the holds..

 

I was just thinking of doing it late in the day. How's the walkoff in waning light?

Posted

St Vitus thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif slabs in the rain thumbs_down.gifthumbs_down.gif anyways it is good fun to talk about after the fact. nice to meet some cc.comers as well.

 

the drunken teenagers got off easy this time, but we'll be back grin.gifgrin.gif

Posted
Alpinfox said:

 

A little wide eh?

 

If you're a little person with small hands yep. Fern and I have similar hand sizes... Sometimes #3 camalot placements are too wide for my fists. For me a great handcrack is a tight #2 camalot placement.

Posted

i place #4 camalot on both 1st and 2nd p of st vitus and you could easily place 2 if you took 2. that said i think it's more of a 5.8 route than a 5.9 route, compared to snake or sparrow it feels way more solid. but it is harder than calculus, diedre and banana peel (all basically 5.7s despite the guidebook)

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