chelle Posted July 15, 2003 Posted July 15, 2003 thelawgoddess said: fern said: forget about hands ... I've jammed my chest in that climb, bring gear to 38C gonna be an offwidth day for me, i guess. More like a squeeze chimney. I'd have to make sure and keep my lungs full of air for those moves. Quote
Highlander Posted July 18, 2003 Posted July 18, 2003 I agree with Dru. Do Snake, all of its pitches are quality climbing. Diedre is really only 2 pitches, the rest is mainly 5.0 slab climbing. Solo the first three pitches. Do the middle 2 in 1 long pitch (some simul required). Scramble the last bit to broadway. St. Vitus is fun (5.8) tops. Make sure you lead the first pitch its the best, then you get the nice bulging hand crack at the end. Mclane also calls Hand Jive a hand crack, I found it to be more of a ratly finger crack, wish I took more red aliens Quote
jefffski Posted July 18, 2003 Posted July 18, 2003 i suggest climbers take the last post advisedly. the first two pitches on the dihedral of diedre have some very polished sections with small fingers (old piton scars). 5.8 moves for sure. st vitus may feel like 5.8 for those with lots of off width experience, but i think the 5.9 rating is accurate. lots of new climbers on these routes. let's not sandbag them needlessly. pitch em out, enjoy the view! Quote
erik Posted July 18, 2003 Posted July 18, 2003 jefffski said: i suggest climbers take the last post advisedly. the first two pitches on the dihedral of diedre have some very polished sections with small fingers (old piton scars). 5.8 moves for sure. st vitus may feel like 5.8 for those with lots of off width experience, but i think the 5.9 rating is accurate. lots of new climbers on these routes. let's not sandbag them needlessly. pitch em out, enjoy the view! you climb with my grandma?? Quote
Dru Posted July 18, 2003 Posted July 18, 2003 jefffski said: i suggest climbers take the last post advisedly. the first two pitches on the dihedral of diedre have some very polished sections with small fingers (old piton scars). 5.8 moves for sure. st vitus may feel like 5.8 for those with lots of off width experience, but i think the 5.9 rating is accurate. lots of new climbers on these routes. let's not sandbag them needlessly. pitch em out, enjoy the view! dihedral on diedre was my first ever leads 12 years ago, and it was 5.7 and well protected then and now. it may have polished a bit but it is not 5.8. st vitus at 5.9 is not only the easiest 5.9 on the apron but pretty much one of the easiest 5.9 at squamish... no real OW moves are necessary as there is always a crack or hold in the back... compare it to a real 5.9 OW like march of the kitchen utensils or a 10a chimney like on papoose one (or a 5.8 squeeze like hiphugger) and it feels more than 1 or 2 grades easier! Quote
RuMR Posted July 18, 2003 Posted July 18, 2003 so you're saying they are equivalent to GNS at index??? HAHAHAHHAHAA Quote
erik Posted July 18, 2003 Posted July 18, 2003 RuMR said: so you're saying they are equivalent to GNS at index??? HAHAHAHHAHAA he wouldnt know...hes never been there and likely never will. i just spoke to the mayor of index and drul is invited down, no expenses paid trip to have his ass beat by the local sheriff and crew. Quote
RuMR Posted July 18, 2003 Posted July 18, 2003 erik said: RuMR said: so you're saying they are equivalent to GNS at index??? HAHAHAHHAHAA he wouldnt know...hes never been there and likely never will. i just spoke to the mayor of index and drul is invited down, no expenses paid trip to have his ass beat by the local sheriff and crew. HAHAHAHAHA...heezasucka!! Quote
Dru Posted July 18, 2003 Posted July 18, 2003 if index is so good why are all the seattle climbers going to squamish this weekend? to pad out their resume with some easy sending? Quote
RuMR Posted July 18, 2003 Posted July 18, 2003 as i said...tired of the smackdown...gotta rebuild the fragile ego! Quote
erik Posted July 18, 2003 Posted July 18, 2003 I AINT GOIN TO SQUISH THIS WEEKEND! I AM GOING TO GO CLIMB A REAL ROUTE! NOT SOME IMAGINARY BATH TUB BIVI ROUTE WITH MY AUNT! IN THE CENTRAL CHILLIWACK! Quote
Dru Posted July 18, 2003 Posted July 18, 2003 are you going to give us a properly bruised chest TR on Monday then? Quote
AlpineK Posted July 18, 2003 Author Posted July 18, 2003 Dru said: if index is so good why are all the seattle climbers going to squamish this weekend? to pad out their resume with some easy sending? I'm gonna go climb a mtn this weekend beotch Quote
Dru Posted July 20, 2003 Posted July 20, 2003 i climbed and it was shweet granite and the climb Quote
pope Posted July 20, 2003 Posted July 20, 2003 Dru said: i climbed and it was shweet granite and the climb Dude, right on! Details please. Was this the big climb for which you were soliciting bivi secrets? Quote
AlpineK Posted July 20, 2003 Author Posted July 20, 2003 Dru said: i climbed and it was shweet granite and the climb Me too! I'm tired. Quote
Dru Posted July 21, 2003 Posted July 21, 2003 pope said: Dru said: i climbed and it was shweet granite and the climb Dude, right on! Details please. Was this the big climb for which you were soliciting bivi secrets? no cause we could only go for 1 day. see BC forum for details. Quote
snoboy Posted July 21, 2003 Posted July 21, 2003 fern said: forget about hands ... I've jammed my chest in that climb, bring gear to 38C I went and checked on Saturday... it's mostly hands, for me. Some of the hard parts are big though! Quote
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