dberdinka Posted July 11, 2003 Posted July 11, 2003 Has anyone else climbed this slabby route at the Pearly Gates? Did you find something...ummmm...interesting about the features through the crux? Quote
chelle Posted July 11, 2003 Posted July 11, 2003 Is this the 5.10 route just to the left of the 5.9 crack that starts out with a little undercling boulder problem? Kind of in the middle of the wall? If so, Paco climbed it on top rope about 6 weeks ago. Quote
Dru Posted July 11, 2003 Posted July 11, 2003 dberdinka said: Has anyone else climbed this slabby route at the Pearly Gates? Did you find something...ummmm...interesting about the features through the crux? Â are you suggesting its chipped or what Darin? Quote
dberdinka Posted July 11, 2003 Author Posted July 11, 2003 Dru said: are you suggesting its chipped or what Darin? Â That would be what I'm suggesting. Maybe I'm just full of shit but it's the only climb I've ever done where the holds seemed obviously unnatural. Guess, I don't really want to believe myself. Â Anyone out there have an opinion. Do you concure? or am I smoking crack? Quote
erik Posted July 11, 2003 Posted July 11, 2003 does anyone have the topo?? i dont know route names... Â but my guess would be that after the fire weakend the dirt holding these flakes on...and during the aggressive cleaning the flakes were removed and now look unnatural?? Â maybe? Â Â Quote
E-rock Posted July 11, 2003 Posted July 11, 2003 iain said: not more PTL data gathering... Â Weird, I was thinking about scat, too. Really weird. Quote
Bronco Posted July 11, 2003 Posted July 11, 2003 erik said: aggressive cleaning  ie "chipping" Quote
Dru Posted July 11, 2003 Posted July 11, 2003 is cutting down a tree on a route 'chipping' or only if you mulch it? Â NEW TREE KILLING FORUM now! Quote
mattp Posted July 11, 2003 Posted July 11, 2003 There can be some grey area between aggressive cleaning and outright chipping, but mostly there isn't. Â If you are pulling off loose flakes and removing dirt and stones from cracks, it is different from actually chipping a hold. Even when being fairly aggressive about it you generally just pull things off or out of cracks and, although you may try to "manufacture" a hold in the sense that you may work to try and pull off only some flakes and not others, the existing cracks dictate what is loose and what is not so you can't completely engineer the outcome (that is why there is construction adhesive behind some flakes at Exit 38). Outright chipping usually leaves behind chisel or drill marks. Quote
JayB Posted July 11, 2003 Posted July 11, 2003 Speak no evil is a bolted slab on the far right - that is, on the right side of the formation about 50 meters to the climbers right of the formation with the majority of the cracks on it. Never climbed it. Â Never heard of someone chipping a slab before. What in particular convinced you that the holds on that route were chipped? Was there a perfectly symmetrical pocket or crimper right at the crux or something? Quote
scot'teryx Posted July 12, 2003 Posted July 12, 2003 Climbed it last year, never noticed anything, but then again I didn't use my open eye Quote
dberdinka Posted July 14, 2003 Author Posted July 14, 2003 (edited) JayB said: What in particular convinced you that the holds on that route were chipped? Was there a perfectly symmetrical pocket or crimper right at the crux or something? Â Through the crux area there are 2 or 3 very small, very positive pockets that make it doable at 5.10. One of those pockets looks like 3 very shallow 3/8" holes lined up. Sorta like ()()(). The others seemed unnatural as well. Â Like I said, it's the only climb I've ever done where I came down feeling...dirty. Â Regardless, I received a very polite e-mail from someone apparently in the know who said "No, that climb isn't chipped...it's the other climb nearby that has a chipped hold" Â ****** EDIT ****** Rather than paraphrase the e-mail as I did above I've been asked to acurrately quote it. Here..... Â "The only chipped holds are the foot holds at the start of Leap of Faith. The foot hold kept breaking so we finally decided to chip it until it didn't break anymore." Â My apologizes to those I've offended. Â ****** End of Edit ****** Â Ultimately I was just curious what other people thought (which apparently isn't much) PG is an awesome area to climb at and I don't think chipping is running rampant through the Icicle. Peace, word, have a nice week in your cubie. Â Â Edited July 14, 2003 by dberdinka Quote
chirp Posted July 15, 2003 Posted July 15, 2003 Dr Leaky (P Pinnacles) was chipped years ago, mebbe go there, study the angle, depth and style of that edit and see if its similar. Quote
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