Peter_Puget Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 After my afternoon trip to 38 last week I decided that while it’s climbing it doesn’t really get me excited about climbing. Index on the other hand is longer drive to do the same old routes. My question is if people are putting routes up at 38 why aren’t they doing the same at Index? People are always whining about how they can’t find a partner or are unemployed – why aren’t you all putting up new routes? PP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 i don't think people want me putting up new routes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted June 30, 2003 Author Share Posted June 30, 2003 Sure they would! Look at Squamish every nook and cranny has been excavated. Darrington is being covered. But neither can be reached after work from Seattle! PP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eerie Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 I've heard 522 can be a real nightmare. How bad is traffic getting out to Index from downtown Seattle in the afternoons/evenings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 last week i left northgate at about 3:45 and got to index at about 5:00. it seemed to be slower-going than usual. people can't drive around here when it's sunny. or rainy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddday Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 I have climbed on pretty much every wall up there, and can tell you that there isn't a lot of route potential for climbs under 5.12. There are however at least a hundred excellent routes, multi-pitch and otherwise in the 5.10-5.11 grade. Good Girls Like Bad Boys for instance, one of the best climbs I've done. So if you've done all those my hat is off to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted July 1, 2003 Author Share Posted July 1, 2003 Ah I was just going to bring this baby back to the top. Haven't done them all or even very many but I would say that there is significant volumes of easier new route potential at Index (short) and that's what I wish was there for quick after work climbing. For example Erik climbed a new route a couple of winters ago that I want to do. So a three day weekend is a coming lots of time for new route TR on Monday. Then I might be able to escape for an afternoon of climbing. PP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kitten Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 Eerie said: I've heard 522 can be a real nightmare. How bad is traffic getting out to Index from downtown Seattle in the afternoons/evenings? I live out that way & commute everyday. It sucks!!!! It is a lot better with school out, but it still blows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 I WOULD AGREE WITH PP...THERE ARE LOTS OF LWORTH STYLE CLIFFLETS THAT COULD BE DEVELOPED, BUT LIKE MOST OF THE AREAS AT INDEX, I THINK YOUR WORK FOR THE MOST PART WOULD BE LOST WITHOUT TRAVEL..... I BET THE UPPER CHEEKS WOULD REVEAL SOME MORE PITCHES.... AND THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE DIAMOND?? THE LEFT SIDE OF LOOKOUT POINT??? AND THERE IS LOTSA ROCK IN THE SKAY DRAINAGE, YOU CANT SEE FROM THE HWY!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eerie Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 Kitten said: I live out that way & commute everyday. It sucks!!!! It is a lot better with school out, but it still blows. Does the traffic die down after a certain time, i.e. 6pm? If you head thru 522 at 6pm that would make for about a 7pm Index arrival wouldn't it? With headlamps, on rock climbing time could be extended thru about 9pm even though there isn't any sun right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 GO OUT TOWARDS DUVAL AND HEAD INTO MONROE THAT WAY......THO TRAFFIC SUX SOMETIMES GOING THAT DIRECTION TOO!!!! I CAN GET FROM TACOMA TO INDEX IN 1.5 HRS ANYTIME, BAR ANY TRAFFIC ACCIDENT.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 Eerie said: With headlamps, on rock climbing time could be extended thru about 9pm even though there isn't any sun right? I was climbing in okay light until about 9:45 last night and it was overcast. Rapped in full darkness at about 10-10:30. Rappelling into the forest void was rather peaceful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eerie Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 Greg_W said: Rappelling into the forest void was rather peaceful. There's just something I like about hiking out from climbing at dusk or in the dark feeling like you milked every bit out of the day. I'd love to head up to Index some evening. I've been climbing up there once before and did GNS. I'm a beginning trad leader but can handle following up to 9 maybe 10, just depends on the route. I'm just looking to get to know Index from the ground up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 Peter_Puget said: After my afternoon trip to 38 last week I decided that while it’s climbing it doesn’t really get me excited about climbing. Index on the other hand is longer drive to do the same old routes. My question is if people are putting routes up at 38 why aren’t they doing the same at Index? People are always whining about how they can’t find a partner or are unemployed – why aren’t you all putting up new routes? PP Unemployed people put up routes? You looked at the pricetag on a shiny new Hilti bolt gun lately, Pewzhay? Bolts cost money, too, as does a torque wrench. Dig it, though; you endow DFA with the necessary hardware and he'll put up some sick new classics for ya. Maybe even custom-chip some pockets if you're lucky, you know, for that "Churning Buttress" feel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted July 1, 2003 Author Share Posted July 1, 2003 At Index the rock has a strange feature called a "Crack." Some climbers have equipment that they place in these "Cracks" to use in place of bolts. It's crazy I know. But the idea of a Churning replica sounds pretty groovy to me. Maybe O2 instead! PP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 Waitasec, you were talking about establishing new routes. You're a tradly gearslinger; if you wanna see new crack routes, can't you just step up to any ol' crack, chalk up, stuff it fulla gear, and name it Peter Puget Bonks Your Momma, and call it good? Isn't that the beauty of the pureandnaturalartofrockprotection lifestyle? You wanna replicate O2, just go to the nearest doorway in your home or office, shut the door, and try to layback up the molding with your feet pasted on the door itself. Go up and down about six times, then deadpoint for the top of the molding from about midway. Kind of hard to replicate the finish, but that's mostly the jist of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kitten Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 Eerie said: Kitten said: I live out that way & commute everyday. It sucks!!!! It is a lot better with school out, but it still blows. Does the traffic die down after a certain time, i.e. 6pm? If you head thru 522 at 6pm that would make for about a 7pm Index arrival wouldn't it? With headlamps, on rock climbing time could be extended thru about 9pm even though there isn't any sun right? Yep - the traffic does seem to be better on 522 after 6PM Erik was right about going through Duvall & Monroe - it CAN be lighter unless the lights are out. Have a blast! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: Waitasec, you were talking about establishing new routes. You're a tradly gearslinger; if you wanna see new crack routes, can't you just step up to any ol' crack, chalk up, stuff it fulla gear, and name it Peter Puget Bonks Your Momma, and call it good? Isn't that the beauty of the pureandnaturalartofrockprotection lifestyle? You wanna replicate O2, just go to the nearest doorway in your home or office, shut the door, and try to layback up the molding with your feet pasted on the door itself. Go up and down about six times, then deadpoint for the top of the molding from about midway. Kind of hard to replicate the finish, but that's mostly the jist of it. Ha...you prolly don't know the secret beta to avoid that tenuous layback crapola... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted July 2, 2003 Share Posted July 2, 2003 What secret beta? There's no other holds on the sumbitch; just the offset to grab and a couple of anorexic Rice Krispies to pretend you can stand on. Least up until the top section, anyways. So spill the beta, hoss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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